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Wheel stud kit on order ... now worried about them breaking on the track?

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by Ramps View Post
    I wonder if the newer ones are worse? I have Apex studs I installed in 2012 and since then I’ve done several track days, tons of spirited driving, and had the wheels off a couple of dozen times. I never considered studs a wear item since they aren’t on any car that came with them as OE. This is concerning to hear of them breaking.
    I don’t consider studs a wear item if they are properly cared for. But...the consequences of a failure are high which is losing a wheel at high speeds. There’s no way to tell if they will fail until they fail.

    So preventive replacement mitigates improper care.


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  • Ramps
    replied
    I wonder if the newer ones are worse? I have Apex studs I installed in 2012 and since then I’ve done several track days, tons of spirited driving, and had the wheels off a couple of dozen times. I never considered studs a wear item since they aren’t on any car that came with them as OE. This is concerning to hear of them breaking.

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  • foolio
    replied
    I do about 5 track events a year. I had Apex studs for three years with no issues. That was before I was told these should be considered a wear item. I changed them out for Apex again at the beginning of 2019. After seven events, I had two break. I am very careful about torquing my wheels. I don’t touch them at the track unless the wheels are cold. A buddy of mine had two break as well this year with just 4 events. I replaced mine with the MSH ones from FCP. Well see how they do after a year. FWIW l run coil overs and NT01s with 12mm spacers rear and 5mm spacer front. That could cause extra stress.

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  • r4dr
    replied
    ***Check out our new broken stud gallery here*****LUG NUTS ARE NOT INCLUDED** MSI is a leading wheel stud supplier for IMSA, SRO (Pirelli World Challenge), and NASCAR teams. Two different lengths available: up to 12mm wheel spacer, and up to 20mm spacer. Both lengths come with easy start bullet noses (see pictures in gallery). These are the most robustly designed 12mm wheel stud available on the market with 'CT10' dry film lubricant coating to achieve more tension with less torque and to prevent galling (thread damage)*** "WHAT DO I GET?"Your choice of a complete set, fronts only, or rears only of new O.E. supplier FAG brand BMW front and BMW Genuine OEM rear hubs professionally modified on a CNC machine to allow the use of super high-strength (beyond grade 12.9, 185,000+ psi ultimate tensile strength) press-in ARP or proprietary Core4/MSI wheel studs. Hubs come pre-installed with ARP or MSI studs. Don't want to spend money on brand new hubs? SEND YOUR OWN WHEEL HUBS IN TO HAVE STUDS INSTALLED! These aren't just simply drilled. They are machined exactly the same as OEM hubs that come from the factory with press-in studs. The holes are precision machined and inspected, and the backside of the hubs are machined flat to allow the head of the studs to sit correctly without any stress risers from poor perpendicularity with the hub face. It is perfect timing to simply install these on your vehicle during a bearing service and worry much less about your studs breaking whether for a dual duty track car or full blown race car. Hubs come with studs long enough to use a 12mm wheel spacer OR you can opt for a longer stud which will allow the use of a wheel spacer up to 20mm thick. "WHO IS THIS MEANT FOR?"Anyone who wants a endurance racing tested, reliable method of fastening wheels to their car, and keeping them there....literally. Extra peace of mind, less money spent on replacing studs out of paranoia, and a proven track record applies to every BMW enthusiast, whether drifting, tracking, or full blown racing. "WHY WOULD I WANT PRESS-IN STUDS ON MY BMW ANYWAY?"This is a solution to a documented problem in a series that our race team competes in called American Endurance Racing ("AER" www.americanenduranceracing.com), where there's upwards of 25 hours of racing per weekend. That's approximately 15-20 HPDE/track-day's worth of track time in a span of three days. Several teams who have had consistent issues and multiple instances with breaking thread-in studs, and sometimes losing wheels on track (see videos in gallery), have had zero issues to date since switching over to press-in style studs. This is based on the AER database which has cars with multiple 1000's of laps in the last 2-3 years. The only cars that have had failures (and lost wheels) are BMW cars with 12mm size thread-in studs. There hasn't been a single report of a press-in stud failure from cars that come that way from the factory (Mustang, Corvette, Nissan, Honda, etc.) or BMW's that have already been modified to this style utilizing ARP press-in studs that race in AER. Because of the frequency of thread-in stud failures, many BMW owners have been led to believe that it is necessary to service wheel studs at an abnormal rate. Some recommendations as low as 10 hours of track time. STUDS SHOULD NOT NEED TO BE SERVICED BEFORE WHEEL BEARINGS ON A TRACK CAR . The only instance where this may be the case is when the studs are subjected to repeated time sensitive pit-stops with heavy impact equipment. Simple as that. A dual duty track/street car should be able to run the same high quality, high strength ARP or MSI wheel studs for years without worry or up until wheel bearings are serviced. M12 sized fasteners in a thread-in configuration are marginal for the application and more susceptible to failure due to large stress risers at the thread root and shoulder where they install into the hub. Press-in ARP and MSI studs have large un-threaded shanks that have 44% larger cross-sectional area than thread-in studs (more area = more strength!) coming out of the hub from the backside making them much more robust and fatigue resistant without stress concentrations at points of peak stress. Their tolerance to bending and shear loading from race cars generating tons of grip and instances beyond control like loss of pre-load (anything from installation error to plastic deformation of the aluminum wheel at the lug nut interface), debris caught in between wheel and hub, poorly constructed or out of tolerance wheels, is much better than a thread-in. "BUT, THREAD-IN STUDS ARE EASY TO CHANGE IF THEY BREAK..."The only people who make this argument are BMW people who run 12mm thread-in studs. Why? Because they are the only people who break studs at an abnormal rate!Press-in studs CAN easily be serviced on the front of E36 M3/E46 and front and rear on E36 non-M. The front of the car requires the removal of the dust-shield and the rear of the car the e-brake must be removed and the back plate notched a bit for clearance. Remember, you will most likely need to change your wheel bearings before the need to change studs. "WHAT IF I NEED TO CHANGE BEARINGS?"We offer individual front hub assemblies with just machining done or pre-installed with studs, whether for regular maintenance, spares, or precautionary measures. "I JUST ORDERED WHEEL HUBS AND NOW IT'S TOO LATE TO GET THIS DONE!..."STOP RIGHT THERE! Contact us and we can have you ship us your hubs to get the machining service done and studs installed. For those of you with BMW models that have costly rear hubs (i.e.-Z3), we will offer to do the service on used hubs granted they are clean condition.


    Another choice that converts it OEM-style.

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  • Nate047
    replied
    I broke a couple of studs once because I had been very lazy and bad about my torquing habits. Someone above mentioned how easy it is to over torque them by just the slightest extra amount of turn on the wrench, so be extra careful. I have Bimmerworld race studs now and I would change them once a year if you track often.

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  • zivagolee
    replied
    Originally posted by BigRussia View Post

    Damn now I'm debating to buy on FCP, MSH's 15% BF code is still active and was about to buy them direct from them just now. Does FCP have any discount on them?
    Seems like MSH is slightly cheaper. I am a bit confused since it says 78mm but the extended description says 75mm. Gonna guess this is the 75mm since the 78mm on MSH is on clearance and they have a similar clearance 78mm on FCP too.



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  • BigRussia
    replied
    Originally posted by zivagolee View Post
    I also haven’t had much issues with the Apex studs (75mm) and I do around 12 track days a year with multiple wheel changes/swaps ie. change out brake pads at home, swap wheels at the track.

    I do replace them yearly as a preventative measure. Didn’t know MSH was on FCP so that makes replacements nicer!
    Damn now I'm debating to buy on FCP, MSH's 15% BF code is still active and was about to buy them direct from them just now. Does FCP have any discount on them?

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  • zivagolee
    replied
    I also haven’t had much issues with the Apex studs (75mm) and I do around 12 track days a year with multiple wheel changes/swaps ie. change out brake pads at home, swap wheels at the track.

    I do replace them yearly as a preventative measure. Didn’t know MSH was on FCP so that makes replacements nicer!

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  • BigRussia
    replied
    Originally posted by Inizes View Post
    Ugh I hate how these threads always make me second guess purchases. I just bought apex studs. No plans to track the car, just spirited back roads for maybe 4-5k miles a year. Think I’ll stick with them since I shouldn’t have any crazy forces on the studs. I guess Ill need to inspect them every spring.
    You'll be fine, look at my post above yours. My car came with the Apex 90mm and Ive done multiple track days and wheel swaps no issues, not even counting how many miles the previous owner mustve put on them driving the car before.

    But to be safe I am now looking at the Motorsport Hardware 90mm stud kit, only as a preventative since I do track my car and run wide (12mm) spacers.

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  • Inizes
    replied
    Ugh I hate how these threads always make me second guess purchases. I just bought apex studs. No plans to track the car, just spirited back roads for maybe 4-5k miles a year. Think I’ll stick with them since I shouldn’t have any crazy forces on the studs. I guess Ill need to inspect them every spring.

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  • BigRussia
    replied
    Originally posted by dl.m3 View Post
    Never understood the point of studs, no reason to run them on a track car and taking the risk. Especially if your reason is "it's easier to put on my wheels", with some practice it's not that hard, even with spacers. Or use a wheel hanger?
    Well if you have multiple sets of wheels and use multiple different sized spacers it's alot better than keeping track of a bunch of different length lug bolts sets for each setup.

    My car actually came with Apex 90mm hex nose studs and I've done about 5-6 track days and an autox on them, and multiple wheel swaps. No issues so far but I've also always done my own torquing and never exceeding 88lb/ft, and no hot swaps since I drive to the track with my track wheels.

    This thread is making me thinking of replacing them now, sounds like Motorsport Hardware is a good option? I just bought a set of their lug nuts for BF, should've grabbed a set of studs too d'oh

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by dl.m3 View Post
    Never understood the point of studs, no reason to run them on a track car and taking the risk. Especially if your reason is "it's easier to put on my wheels", with some practice it's not that hard, even with spacers. Or use a wheel hanger?
    Even with wheel hangers I find studs much easier to work with.

    You can also change spacer width without new bolts.

    IMO bolts should also be changed on an interval if doing frequent or hot tire changes.

    For a mostly street car that has one set of wheels/tires I completely agree. But if you're swapping wheels with different offsets/size on a frequent basis then there is a good argument to be made for using studs.

    When the hubs need to be replaced I plan to swap them out with ones using press in studs.


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  • dl.m3
    replied
    Never understood the point of studs, no reason to run them on a track car and taking the risk. Especially if your reason is "it's easier to put on my wheels", with some practice it's not that hard, even with spacers. Or use a wheel hanger?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rich022
    replied
    I’ve had Apex fail on me also. And I was the only ‘mechanic’ wrenching in them. Failure from stress cycles and spacers imo...Switched to MSI and no issues so far. Since Nov ‘18.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    I torque my studs at home with a 1/2” Snap On Techangle Digital torque wrench. It doesn’t take much, maybe 1/8 of a turn, to go from 85 ft/lbs to 100 ft/lbs. If you’re leaning on or yanking on a clicker torque wrench, you’re way over the setting. The more leverage you have, the easier it is.

    I’d recommend a 3/8” torque wrench which will require a lot more effort to significantly exceed the setting.

    I think 90% of the people I see torquing fasteners are at least 15% over spec.


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