Timing chain slack

[Cubieman]

You really needed another thread on the same matter? Are you even listening?

I thought so just so I could get this thing together and forget about it. I realize that this was somewhat redundant, I most definitely see your point.
I am most definitely listening and appreciate yours and everyone else's advice.
I hadn't much experience with this so if it meant briefly littering a forum and yielding a few more useful bits of information I suppose I was willing to do that. I am sorry if that was a bit much for some of you, I understand.

[maupineda]

You really needed another thread on the same matter? Are you even listening?

[sapote]

That makes sense, my timing on exhaust side is still almost 1mm off before retarding cams.

OK, as I just pointed out how to set the timing for each cam to avoid being damaged (hitting pistons) at high rpm in my other thread. It is more safe (not performance) to have zero or a little EX cam advanced, and zero or little IN cam retarded. With this in mind, I think you should individually adjust the cams timing instead of adjust them both with same amount by setting the crank retard. Here is my suggestion:

At the beginning:
* set and lock the crank at TDC
* loosen hub bolts and set the cams using the bridge/pin, so that the IN cam is timed with 0.5mm gap on head, and 2mm gap for EX cam. The gap is on the head exhaust side.
* do the remain steps as before.

[yhp2009]

Same chain slack for me as all others have said. I did mine over a year ago and 5000+ miles later no issues and passes vanos test. I also had a very small discrepancy which i tried my best to minimize. But at the end of the day the ECU corrects the tiny difference by adjusting itself.

[Cubieman]

TIS never says this. People should not touch the cams (retard them) during this final test step. The crank should turn the cam, not you or anyone.
What is the tolerance of the crank locking pin? When you tried to turn and retard the cams, this turned the crank CCW and enough to move it off TDC since there is clearance in the crank locking pin, and cause error in the test.

That makes sense, my timing on exhaust side is still almost 1mm off before retarding cams.

[sapote]

After rotating crank to TDC for the final time to check timing I have a gap on intake side for both cams, at this point I can retard the cams just a LITTLE bit and its makes the gaps between bridge and head a bit larger.
Beisan instructions say to rotate crank to TDC and fully retard cams and then check timing.

TIS never says this. People should not touch the cams (retard them) during this final test step. The crank should turn the cam, not you or anyone.
What is the tolerance of the crank locking pin? When you tried to turn and retard the cams, this turned the crank CCW and enough to move it off TDC since there is clearance in the crank locking pin, and cause error in the test.

[Cubieman]

You're confusing me here. You only should turn the crank CW and lock it at TDC compression cycle, then check the cams with the bridge; you should not touch the cams to retard them at this point, so what do you mean the gap become larger after retarding he cams?

After rotating crank to TDC for the final time to check timing I have a gap on intake side for both cams, at this point I can retard the cams just a LITTLE bit and its makes the gaps between bridge and head a bit larger.
Beisan instructions say to rotate crank to TDC and fully retard cams and then check timing.

[sapote]

I am retarding the cams before checking final timing, they up not being 100% retarded after rotating the crank. So my gap between timing bridge and head becomes a bit larger after retarding cams.

You're confusing me here. You only should turn the crank CW and lock it at TDC compression cycle, then check the cams with the bridge; you should not touch the cams to retard them at this point, so what do you mean the gap become larger after retarding he cams?

[Cubieman]

With the motor at TDC and the crank locking pin in, and the Vanos solenoid and valve pack removed, are you fully retarding the cams by rocking them back/forward, but in the end they need to be fully retarded ?

I am retarding the cams before checking final timing, they up not being 100% retarded after rotating the crank. So my gap between timing bridge and head becomes a bit larger after retarding cams.

[heinzboehmer]

Here is a video of the slack, just for visual reference:
https://youtube.com/shorts/XacCjaD47Ig

Mine is the same. As others have said, a chain is never going to be completely rigid.

[Icecream]

Yes.

Then you have three options.
Get a new tensioner (probably wont change a thing)
Get a new chain (probably might have a little tiny bit less slack for a lot of work including removing the head)
Button it up and fire it up . if it is put back together correctly, it shouldnt damage anything and you can check the timing and go from there before spending a tin more on it.
maybe another forum member that is close can stop by.

[180SXTCY]

With the motor at TDC and the crank locking pin in, and the Vanos solenoid and valve pack removed, are you fully retarding the cams by rocking them back/forward, but in the end they need to be fully retarded ?

[Cubieman]

have you gone grey yet?

Lol, this is what happens when OCD and not fully understanding what I am doing collides with things not going 100% according to plan.

[Cubieman]

Thats about how mine looked. Its not going to be completely rigid. All the tensioners were in when you timed it right?

Yes.

[Cubieman]

Have you gotten so far as to see if the VANOS is adapting in the ECU?

No, I still haven't set final timing and reassembled everything.

Before I removed the vanos the last adaptation numbers were -.60 exhaust and -4.5 inlet.