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e46 M3 maintenance/lockdown thread

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  • Hammerfang
    replied
    Super helpful, going to use this as a guide for maintaining my M3.

    Leave a comment:


  • OEM3
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post
    3. When to do what to keep the car driving like new

    Suspension components wear out. The more precise the car, the more noticeable this is... so it's super noticeable on the e46 M3. One of the best upgrades you can do to a tired car is new stock bushings.

    The intervals below are for stock components. Aftermarket can have a shorter or longer lifespan, depending on the part)

    50,000 mile intervals:
    -RTABs (suggest either stock or sealed monoball)
    -FCABs (suggest either stock or sealed monoball)
    -Trans mounts (note: stiffer than stock trans mounts can be a significant source of NHV)
    -Shocks

    100,000 mile intervals:
    -Engine mounts (note: stiffer than stock engine mounts can be a significant source of NHV)
    -diff mounts (note: replacing diff mounts with new stock requires replacing the rear cover. Stiffer than stock diff mounts can be a significant source of NHV with little to no performance benefit)
    -front control arms (arms must be replaced to replace integrated monoballs)
    -rear outer upper and lower control arm monoballs
    -rear inner upper and lower control arm bushings
    -sway bar end links (note: these will wear out far faster if you have significant sway bar preload)
    -sway bar bushings
    -rear shock mounts (RSMs)
    -vanos seals (beisan)

    150,000 mile intervals:
    -subframe bushings
    What are the symptoms of worn:
    1) Transmission Mounts
    2) Struts/Shocks
    ?

    I ask because my car is now at 75k miles and these are still original. Want to know if I would see much benefit replacing them. Much of the mileage has been on smooth, boring highways so perhaps they've seen less wear than average? 😇

    I try to follow this (extremely informative) thread to a T so I'm tempted to do both of these now; don't want to fix what ain't broke though...

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Any guidance on when to replace the engine sensors (camshaft position, crank position, knock, etc.)? TPS is going, so I figured it might be worth replacing everything else right now too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Thoglan
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post

    It hurts me to think about cutting up a perfectly good trunk floor to install the vince bar.

    Is there really any downside to doing the foam, or could it be chipped away and repaired properly if it did end up cracking?
    Unfortunately foam is not recommended imo. Should you develop cracking after the foam is installed you might have trouble finding and installer who wants to weld up those cracks and fix the issue properly. The foam is prone to catching fire and makes welding miserable not to mention a lot more toxic fumes.

    I can understand the apprehension of not wanting to cut into the boot floor if it's not cracked. I was in a similar position, my bootfloor was undamaged however I did have popped spot welds on the wheel arch. Just finished the install of the cmp full top mount kit last week, gotta say it looks pretty 'clubsport' esque once painted and with carpet cut around it. But vince is a good 'invisible' option.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    If you're going to have the car for any length of time, it's worth doing.

    Foam is not NLA.

    Best lockdown out there is the vincebar, IMO.
    It hurts me to think about cutting up a perfectly good trunk floor to install the vince bar.

    Is there really any downside to doing the foam, or could it be chipped away and repaired properly if it did end up cracking?

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post
    What's the latest on subframe reinforcement? It sounds like foam is NLA and also not really recommended because it hinders the welding repairs.

    My subframe is perfectly fine on my 05 and I don't thrash on it too badly. Wondering if it's worth doing anything.
    If you're going to have the car for any length of time, it's worth doing.

    Foam is not NLA.

    Best lockdown out there is the vincebar, IMO.

    Leave a comment:


  • Singh
    replied
    This is very informative, thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    What's the latest on subframe reinforcement? It sounds like foam is NLA and also not really recommended because it hinders the welding repairs.

    My subframe is perfectly fine on my 05 and I don't thrash on it too badly. Wondering if it's worth doing anything.

    Leave a comment:


  • RevUpp
    replied
    That's a great writeup @obioban!

    About the Diff bolts info, there's a small misunderstanding at the explanation. First gen diff bolts were fully threaded, the upgraded now are partially threaded. (the text says the same about old/news, I'm assuming it's a writing mistake).

    Supposedly the full bolt threading was the culprit of broken bolts for what I heard/read...

    By the way, I don't know in your country, but here in Spain now, if you want to buy them at the stealership (23001222891) they ask you to buy a pack of 10, when in the past I bought them separately for my ex E46 M3... So that was like near 50+ euro lol

    Anyway, you can buy them at any specialized store for cheap, just taking with you the bolt measurements, which appear at the realoem. Bought a pair for 0.18 euro, only difference was the head, mine now are hex.
    Added two washers.

    M12 x 50, structural resistance 8.8 (realoem)

    (DIN-6921 8.8 for a local search) you can select the finish, black, chrome, zinc-ed or not, the threading distance measurements, etc...

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by Inizes View Post
    Do we have a guideline on the mileage for a fan clutch replacement? I’m thinking of doing it since I’m at ~100k. Don’t think it’s loose or going, but I would rather not find out by it exploding and my hood getting damaged.
    100,000 is when I do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • r4dr
    replied
    Originally posted by Inizes View Post
    Do we have a guideline on the mileage for a fan clutch replacement? I’m thinking of doing it since I’m at ~100k. Don’t think it’s loose or going, but I would rather not find out by it exploding and my hood getting damaged.
    I believe you can feel play in it, can't you?

    Either way, if you're doing a cooling system refresh at 100k you're taking the fan clutch off anyway, might as well replace it. I know at 60k when I was doing my VANOS fixes, the clutch was pretty grimy with dirt and gunk. I can't imagine that's good for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Inizes
    replied
    Do we have a guideline on the mileage for a fan clutch replacement? I’m thinking of doing it since I’m at ~100k. Don’t think it’s loose or going, but I would rather not find out by it exploding and my hood getting damaged.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by Andy2424 View Post
    A question, which brake fluid do you use with steel flex hoses
    Same as with non steel

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Andy2424
    replied
    A question, which brake fluid do you use with steel flex hoses

    Leave a comment:


  • duracellttu
    replied
    What is, if any, the maintenance interval associated with the rear axles? Do the CV joints wear? What needs to be replaced?

    ill have them removed while doing the rear wheel bearing job. Hoping to address any items during that time.

    Leave a comment:

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