Just insured my 05 M3 45k miles with State Farm (Classic Car Division) for $75k, for little less than $1k per yr.
Not really any restrictions just can't be an everyday car.
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Happy with Hagerty, $850 per year for 06 M3 and 02 M5, 250/500 coverage. Three car family. If Hagerty is giving E92s agreed value coverage wonder why they are not included in Valuation reports.
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Originally posted by Fresh1179 View Post
I would confirm that your coverage extends to HPDE’s/track events. If it does, then that is a steal. HPDE insurance alone from Hagerty for 4/5 events a year could easily add up to this amount alone.
The liability insurance amount is solid. I’m assuming the UIM is also the same which is solid. If you drive the car on the street a lot this is honestly not terrible. You can try to bring down the yearly cost by asking about increasing your deductible to save some money.
I don’t have the language memorized, but %99 of policies will contain language that essentially says [the carrier] will not pay for damages caused or incurred during caused by racing etc. These clauses often don’t include information about HPDE, which is arguably a driver school…It’s a nuanced argument but it is often successful so more carriers are adjusting this language. It’s also an agreed upon value of 70k, which is what you would get for like a 2 year old S550 so the underlying amount of coverage is high. Check with Hagerty to make sure the policy specifically includes track events. If it does…PM the agent you worked with haha.
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The M3 is a 3rd vehicle for me so usage is now strictly for fun, but that usage is higher risk so I maxed out liability because at the end of the day it is not worth being sued if you hit a hypercar on a backroad in a freak incident because that is EASILY over 100k in damages to just the other guy.
I know my policy is not like others given how high the coverage is, but curious if I'm overpaying or it's right in line? Wouldn't be opposed to saving some money if I need to grind them next year, but the peace of mind with all the other variables already being taken care of made it worth it. Outside of separate hpde insurance for events I am pretty much covered under any usage circumstance unlike some of the cheaper guys who will grind you for parking in a public parking lot and getting keyed where they will deny you because its out of policy. Lol.
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Originally posted by thegenius46m View PostHmm... Am I overpaying? Lol. I have my M3 on $70k agreed value policy with Hagerty under the "modified-motorsports" classification since the car does see track time and is far from stock to justify solely "classic collector" usage. Liability is 500/500/500 with a 1k deductible and I have the option to get the car back for free in the event of a total loss. Paying $2600/yr for comprehensive and collision. Driving record is spotless.
The liability insurance amount is solid. I’m assuming the UIM is also the same which is solid. If you drive the car on the street a lot this is honestly not terrible. You can try to bring down the yearly cost by asking about increasing your deductible to save some money.
I don’t have the language memorized, but %99 of policies will contain language that essentially says [the carrier] will not pay for damages caused or incurred during caused by racing etc. These clauses often don’t include information about HPDE, which is arguably a driver school…It’s a nuanced argument but it is often successful so more carriers are adjusting this language. It’s also an agreed upon value of 70k, which is what you would get for like a 2 year old S550 so the underlying amount of coverage is high. Check with Hagerty to make sure the policy specifically includes track events. If it does…PM the agent you worked with haha.
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Hmm... Am I overpaying? Lol. I have my M3 on $70k agreed value policy with Hagerty under the "modified-motorsports" classification since the car does see track time and is far from stock to justify solely "classic collector" usage. Liability is 500/500/500 with a 1k deductible and I have the option to get the car back for free in the event of a total loss. Paying $2600/yr for comprehensive and collision. Driving record is spotless.
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$25,000 Agreed upon cash value. Some restrictions like mileage and overnight trips. I pay about $550/year.
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This is somewhat off-topic, but here is a personal experience tip from a lawyer. Buy as much UM/UIM on your policy as you can. If you live in a State where you have the option of purchasing stacked UIM coverage, do it. UIM/UM is the cheapest life insurance you can buy. This coverage is also the least profitable risk assumption your carrier makes so the agents/resellers don’t talk about it that much. Because people don’t talk about it a lot, most people do not understand it. Hell, it is confusing (more so the exact legal intricacies) enough to lawyers that they release an updated 400-600 page guide for lawyers in every State, every year. This is how it works in general:
Quick UIM Example: Tim hits you and puts You in the hospital. You wanted to save $100 a year so You bought a policy with $100,000 in underinsured motorists coverage (UIM). You require extensive medical care and incur medical bills and lost wages in the amount of $200,000 (let’s make it easy). Well, as it turns out, Tim bought the state minimum policy to get insured and has $30,000 in liability insurance. Your UIM kicks in and you recover the full $100,000 (30k from Tim and $70k from Your insurance) limits. You incurred $200,000 worth of damages and you have $100,000 worth of coverage. Now, a lawyer will take a third, you will mandatorily have to pay back your health insurer to satisfy the medical lien because of third party liability so they take another $16,666 (at a minimum) and you are now left with a true amount of $50,000 in recovery for that $200,000 incident you had.
What about UM? Just means they can't locate the driver or the driver is totally uninsured. Same principles apply for both UIM and UM.
What is UIM/UM Stacking?
Intrapolicy Stacking: Your State allows intrapolicy stacking. Your broker should know this or you should get another one. Same facts as above but assume that Your State by statute or purchase allows intrapolicy stacking. Same incident occurs as above but you have purchased or are statutorily entitled to intrapolicy stacking. In this example, you have 3 cars on your policy. The UIM/UM coverage for each vehicle "stacks" to a total of $300,000 (Vehicle 1-$100,000+Vehicle 2-$100,000+Vehicle 3 $100,000.) Now, Your total UIM/UM insurance coverage for the incident is $300,000.
Interpolicy Stacking: Your State does not allow intrapolicy stacking, but does allow interpolicy stacking. Your broker should know this or you should get another one. Same facts as above but assume You have one policy with Carrier X with 5 cars. You also have one policy with Carrier Y (Can be same carrier, as long as policies are different). Same facts as above, but for your 5 car policy with Carrier X, you purchased $250,000 in UIM. For your policy with Carrier Y, you purchased UM/UIM limits in the amount of $100,000. In this instance, the vehicles do not intrastack on your policy with Carrier X (remember, no intrapolicy stacking) so you have $250,000 in coverage from Carrier X, however, your policy with Carrier X will most likely interstack with your policy with Carrier Y. Your total UIM/UM coverage for this incident is $350,000 ($250,000-Carrier X Policy+$100,000 Carrier Y Policy)
Why Are the Numbers Written Like $100,000/$300,000, $250,000/$500,000 etc.
The first number is PER PERSON, meaning the first number is the maximum coverage per person. The second number is PER INCIDENT. You may have multiple individuals entitled to coverage in your vehicle. If you have 4 individuals in the vehicle the total insurance available for FOR ALL CLAIMS ARISING OUT OF THE INCIDENT is limited to the second number.
Buy as much UIM/UM as you can afford. Check what you have. Now. This IS NOT legal advice but in my personal, experienced opinion UIM/UM insurance is the best insurance you can own, especially for those 25-45. If you are under the age of about 45 and have life insurance but shitty UIM/UM coverage, you are doing it wrong. Ask yourself this question. Am I more likely to die of a sudden, unforeseen medical emergency in my middle age or get injured or die in a car wreck? I'll let you make that determination. If you need to find out what you have, find or ask for a copy of your “declarations page.” Make sure your policy is suitable for yourself and your family. This is the most important aspect of your car insurance. Period.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by Fresh1179; 01-22-2022, 12:12 PM.
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They actually say it must be your third vehicle if you have a spouse. Very recently called Grundy, Hagerty, JC Taylor, and Assurant/Geico and all of them said that both my fiancee and I would need separate daily drivers to insure the M3. That's three cars for one agreed value policy.
Two is understandable--we already have a shitbox Corolla that's essentially a bumper car for getting groceries. They said we both need a DD. Neither of us ever drive to work and there are millions of people in a similar situation in NY, DC, SF, Boston, etc.
The lady at Grundy said they've tried to explain this to the underwriters numerous times to no avail.
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Just did some finagling to get my vehicles under hagerty. With a lot of work and persistence I managed to get the LSB and the e92 on hagerty. Never in my life have I wished to be 30 years old than I did when I called Hagerty lol
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I'm not sure why you guys are getting upset over their policy. They clearly state it must be a second vehicle and you guys are getting mad it's not your second vehicle.
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Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
Not me
I use my car pretty much exactly as you do and have been trying to get an agreed value policy for years now, but as soon as I mention not owning another car, I get told to go away. All the insurance companies I've talked to seem to believe that it's impossible to survive in the US without using a car as your main method of transportation.
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Originally posted by sina View PostHas anybody had any luck with Grundy, as a single-vehicle household? The latest BaT results have me nervous... My car is just for pleasure use + maybe one errand a week, 3-4k miles / year.
I use my car pretty much exactly as you do and have been trying to get an agreed value policy for years now, but as soon as I mention not owning another car, I get told to go away. All the insurance companies I've talked to seem to believe that it's impossible to survive in the US without using a car as your main method of transportation.
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Has anybody had any luck with Grundy, as a single-vehicle household? The latest BaT results have me nervous... My car is just for pleasure use + maybe one errand a week, 3-4k miles / year.
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2003 e46 ZHP m3 conversion here. was rejected a few times by Grundy but was persistent and finally they accepted my car.
I was able to get Grundy to insure my e46 4 door M3 conversion for $52k agreed value. paid $612 for the year with $500 deductibles and 50/100k 100/300k comp collision personal
had to send in a bunch of pictures and details of the conversion for them to accept the WBA car for $52k lol
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82k miles ZCP 6spd rebuilt title 30k agreed value, zero deductible.
Our insurance agent didn’t even bay an eye at 30k. Likely can go higher, but we’re happy with 30k.
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