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Diff Rebuild Service - 3 Clutches or Wavetrac?

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by bingmobo View Post

    Okay, thank you very much for that explanation :-).
    So if I were to go with a Wavetrack, I wouldn't have the aforementioned unequal length shaft issue nor the 'diff clunk' issue?
    Additionally, I know what to expect with the stock M-Variable LSD, how much worse/better would a Wavetrack LSD behave? I like the idea of gradual locking up to a decent amount with clutches, I don't know how well the lockup is with a Wavetrack which is a totally different system.
    Thanks so much in advance!
    Should not have the diff clunk issue. The issue with the stock LSD is that it is too slow locking and unlocking. This allows the car to get sideways. The worst part is that it induces a tank slapper. Because the diff is always too slow, you have to time your throttle release and input. Much harder to drive than a mechanical clutch LSD.

    I'd guess that the Wavetrac also improves on this. Hopefully it does because that is the main shortcoming of the stock LSD.

    Leave a comment:


  • jbfrancis3
    replied
    Here are the Wavetrac fluid standard recommendations as FYI:
    Preferred: MOTUL GEAR COMPETITION 75W-140. Backordered in many places at the moment.
    Alternative: Mobil 1 Syn Gear 75W-140.
    Not ideal (avoid): anything with higher friction modifier package which would include a Red Line, Liqui Moly, etc.

    They'll advise you on a specific weight if you're inclined to describe use or specific needs. Very helpful on the phone.

    Leave a comment:


  • bingmobo
    replied
    That's a phenomenal price based on what I'm seeing.
    Going with DiffsOnline is about double that. I'm adding in a 3.85 ring gear which brings it up another $1k or so too so it's wildly outside of my price range, LOL.

    Leave a comment:


  • EthanolTurbo
    replied
    Originally posted by bingmobo View Post
    That's great and all but a $4100 LSD option is a little outside my budget, LOL.
    Thanks for the info though. If I had all the money to spend, I'd certainly take your recommendation 😁.
    Looking at the difference between the Stock M-Variable in an E46 M3 vs a Wavetrac in the same car.
    To be fair, there are several models of Drexler LSD available. They range from $1800-2600ish. I paid $930 to rebuild and install a spare diff I had. So you're looking at about $2700. Wavetrac is only few hundred less. I got my Drexler from Limitedslip.de and he set mine to lock up at at 70%/30% and it feels wonderful. You can always shoot him a DM or email, he always has time to answer questions etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • bingmobo
    replied
    Originally posted by EthanolTurbo View Post
    I would get a Drexler diff.
    That's great and all but a $4100 LSD option is a little outside my budget, LOL.
    Thanks for the info though. If I had all the money to spend, I'd certainly take your recommendation 😁.
    Looking at the difference between the Stock M-Variable in an E46 M3 vs a Wavetrac in the same car.

    Leave a comment:


  • EthanolTurbo
    replied
    I would get a Drexler diff. Just got a chance to break mine in and mess with it and it is brilliant. The car is so balanced and traction feels supernatural as the car effortlessly glides and grips through corners with the LSD giving perfect amounts of lock and response. Can't wait to take this thing on track.

    Leave a comment:


  • bingmobo
    replied
    *bump*
    Thank you so much for everyone's help. I'm putting this on the back burner while we get our MaxJax installed in our garage.
    Mostly, if I spend this massive (to me anyway) amount of money, I want to see a noticeable improvement. Is the Wavetrac better than the stock M-Diff in terms of feel and performance (not just longevity)?
    Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:


  • bingmobo
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    If you install a different LSD, most designs have the spider gears in the middle of the carrier, you need equal length axle stubs.

    The M variable locks are the rare example of having an offset spider gear assembly which requires different length axle stubs.
    Okay, thank you very much for that explanation :-).
    So if I were to go with a Wavetrack, I wouldn't have the aforementioned unequal length shaft issue nor the 'diff clunk' issue?
    Additionally, I know what to expect with the stock M-Variable LSD, how much worse/better would a Wavetrack LSD behave? I like the idea of gradual locking up to a decent amount with clutches, I don't know how well the lockup is with a Wavetrack which is a totally different system.
    Thanks so much in advance!

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by bingmobo View Post
    My diff worked just fine until it started leaking and whining at 100k miles.
    I think I get what you're trying to say - "IDEALLY" you'd go for the equal length shafts but obviously the differential still "WORKS" with the original design....
    If you install a different LSD, most designs have the spider gears in the middle of the carrier, you need equal length axle stubs.

    The M variable locks are the rare example of having an offset spider gear assembly which requires different length axle stubs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by bingmobo View Post
    Another thing I'm concerned about is the "diff clunk". Is this rectified by going with a non-M-Variable LSD like the 3-clutch or a Wavetrack?
    Yes.

    Leave a comment:


  • bingmobo
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    If you want the diff to work…yes…you need the equal length axle stubs from a euro E36. Also can get them from any early model 5/6/7 series with a 210mm diff.
    My diff worked just fine until it started leaking and whining at 100k miles.
    I think I get what you're trying to say - "IDEALLY" you'd go for the equal length shafts but obviously the differential still "WORKS" with the original design....

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by bingmobo View Post
    Required? Every diff rebuild company I know just rebuilds the E46 M diff... does that mean they're all doing it wrong and I should pay for a whole different E36 diff (forgoing the $1500 core deposit)?
    Another thing I'm concerned about is the "diff clunk". Is this rectified by going with a non-M-Variable LSD like the 3-clutch or a Wavetrack?
    Right now I'm leaning towards a rebuilt E46 M diff with a 3.85 ring gear and a rebuilt M-Variable LSD for around $4k (would be closer to $7k if I went with the 3-clutch DiffsOnline LSD). This is good setup ya'll think?
    Thanks! :-)
    If you want the diff to work…yes…you need the equal length axle stubs from a euro E36. Also can get them from any early model 5/6/7 series with a 210mm diff.

    Leave a comment:


  • bingmobo
    replied
    Required? Every diff rebuild company I know just rebuilds the E46 M diff... does that mean they're all doing it wrong and I should pay for a whole different E36 diff (forgoing the $1500 core deposit)?
    Another thing I'm concerned about is the "diff clunk". Is this rectified by going with a non-M-Variable LSD like the 3-clutch or a Wavetrack?
    Right now I'm leaning towards a rebuilt E46 M diff with a 3.85 ring gear and a rebuilt M-Variable LSD for around $4k (would be closer to $7k if I went with the 3-clutch DiffsOnline LSD). This is good setup ya'll think?
    Thanks! :-)

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by WoGGo View Post

    This is what I want!

    A very well regarded company here in Australia (Diff Lab) is advising to use the symmetrical output shafts from the Euro E36 M3 3.2L... is this something you would also recommend?
    I would recommend it if you want the diff to work. Not really a recommendation...its required.

    Leave a comment:


  • WoGGo
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    I feels exactly like a new stock M variable lock.

    ... and it should stay that way forever, as no clutches to wear.
    This is what I want!

    A very well regarded company here in Australia (Diff Lab) is advising to use the symmetrical output shafts from the Euro E36 M3 3.2L... is this something you would also recommend?

    Leave a comment:

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