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e46 M3 suspension setup, or how to not downgrade your car with suspension mods

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  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by kaiv View Post

    Can you clarify what you mean by "shock tunes"?

    Is this any help:

    Planning to raise the car some and figured I'd throw in some springs while at it before getting it re-aligned. I actually don't mind the the current rates but am intrigued by this flat ride thing ahah
    Exactly, shock tunes referring to the force-velocity and force-displacement curves of the shocks.

    That is a force-displacement curve. I would also need to see at what speeds those lines correlate to, and seeing a force-velocity curve would also be helpful.

    What I can gather from that graph is that assuming it's a single adjustable shock, the adjuster affects both compression and rebound. The reason it affects compression so much less is because it's a much softer shim stack. It also looks like it has a heavily preloaded compression stack, which is not conducive to comfort because it requires so much force just to get the shock moving. The rebound/compression ratio ranges from 0.6 at "low" speed to 1.7 at "high" speed which is low for a street car. My takeaway is this tune is designed for someone who wants a very responsive handling car that doesn't care so much about comfort and drives primarily on smooth roads.

    Leave a comment:


  • kaiv
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post

    It's impossible to advise on the complete picture without knowing your shock tunes.
    I would be running a 400 or 425 front springs to match those 670 rears, if you're happy with those.

    You don't have much room to lower the front before relying on the bump stops, which will further increase the spring rate. Try taking a look to see how close you are to the bumper at static height.

    Careful going too low on spring rate because you might run out of spring travel, and might need to run a much longer spring.
    Can you clarify what you mean by "shock tunes"?

    Is this any help:

    Planning to raise the car some and figured I'd throw in some springs while at it before getting it re-aligned. I actually don't mind the the current rates but am intrigued by this flat ride thing ahah

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by oceansize View Post
    I was surprised when years and years ago, even on the old forum, that there was no information concerning spring length, travel, etc. I think tbone is pretty dead on in his estimates.

    A 9" spring, man, that I wouldn't have guessed.
    I made a calculator that lets you input your spring properties and ride height and tells you what spring length you need. I will tidy it up and upload it here!

    edit: I ran into some difficulties in the rear since the shock travel and spring travel are different, so it needs to work slightly different. Will hopefully get it shared soon.
    Last edited by cobra; 04-28-2023, 02:26 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    I was surprised when years and years ago, even on the old forum, that there was no information concerning spring length, travel, etc. I think tbone is pretty dead on in his estimates.

    A 9" spring, man, that I wouldn't have guessed.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    True true

    Maybe others can share their experience, and we can get a fairly accurate guide.

    Other issue the position of the bottom perch relative to the strut's height from strut to strut. MCS have tons of range, but others, like GC street kit, don't have as much. That'll result in some issues like when you're at that 350-400 range and you'd like to run a 7" (no 6.5" exists sadly, tck vvs come close at 6.25"), but a 7" won't let you get down to 13.5" so you have to choose.

    There are some barrel style (like eibach XTs) springs that will give a little more travel. I had a set (2.5") in 400lb and they did the trick, but ultimately went with TCK 6.25" 400lb since I went to 60mm perches. 6" is too short for 400lb imo, it's really close.
    I had to run a 9" 300lb spring at stock height and even then it almost coil binds at bottom-out (metal to metal).
    If you lower the car you can run a shorter spring since there is less travel requirement.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    True true

    Maybe others can share their experience, and we can get a fairly accurate guide.

    Other issue the position of the bottom perch relative to the strut's height from strut to strut. MCS have tons of range, but others, like GC street kit, don't have as much. That'll result in some issues like when you're at that 350-400 range and you'd like to run a 7" (no 6.5" exists sadly, tck vvs come close at 6.25"), but a 7" won't let you get down to 13.5" so you have to choose.

    There are some barrel style (like eibach XTs) springs that will give a little more travel. I had a set (2.5") in 400lb and they did the trick, but ultimately went with TCK 6.25" 400lb since I went to 60mm perches. 6" is too short for 400lb imo, it's really close.

    Leave a comment:


  • SQ13
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

    Yes IMO, roughly: below 300lbs, 8" 300-400lb - 7" 450-650lb - 6" 650lb+ - 5.5"-5"
    Sir, this is formatted very poorly 😂

    below 300lbs - 8"
    300-400lb - 7"
    450-650lb - 6"
    650lb+ - 5.5"-5"

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
    There's a likely need to change spring lengths as well, right?
    Yes IMO, roughly: below 300lbs, 8" 300-400lb - 7" 450-650lb - 6" 650lb+ - 5.5"-5"

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by kaiv View Post
    Hey guys,

    I have a car that I got pre-modded that I'd like to dial in more to my liking.

    As is the handling is a bit interesting to say the least. The rear end has almost incredible traction and tractability out of a turn however the front end gives up much too early. It's not balanced. The car is also much too low.

    What I want/like: a strong front end and oversteer tendencies if I overcook it. Not sure if that qualifies as neutral-ish.


    Hardware:

    JRZ RS One
    Swift springs 100F (+ helper) / 120R (+ tender rate unknown)
    H&R sway bars (F soft, R stiff)
    ​​GC adjustable end links

    Rates translate to ~558lb and ~670lb

    Would dropping the front spring to 6kg (~335lb) be a good move?


    Click image for larger version

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    It's impossible to advise on the complete picture without knowing your shock tunes.
    I would be running a 400 or 425 front springs to match those 670 rears, if you're happy with those.

    You don't have much room to lower the front before relying on the bump stops, which will further increase the spring rate. Try taking a look to see how close you are to the bumper at static height.

    Careful going too low on spring rate because you might run out of spring travel, and might need to run a much longer spring.

    Leave a comment:


  • zzyzx85
    replied
    I'm going to have my JRZ RS Ones sent out for rebuilding as well so this has crossed my mind. Currently 450lb/550lb. per the calculator, i should be going to 300lb front if i leave it at 550 rear. There's a likely need to change spring lengths as well, right?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cronenberged
    replied
    kaiv yes dropping the front rate and doing stiff front and soft rear sway bars.
    Last edited by Cronenberged; 04-26-2023, 12:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • K-Dawg
    replied
    Originally posted by kaiv View Post

    Would dropping the front spring to 6kg (~335lb) be a good move?
    I think so. I'm not too familiar with the JRZs, but bump stops are stiff springs, so if you're on the bump stops, your front spring rate is effectively higher and will contribute to understeer.

    Maybe you also have something else going on like worn components, bad alignment or crap tires.

    Leave a comment:


  • kaiv
    replied
    Hey guys,

    I have a car that I got pre-modded that I'd like to dial in more to my liking.

    As is the handling is a bit interesting to say the least. The rear end has almost incredible traction and tractability out of a turn however the front end gives up much too early. It's not balanced. The car is also much too low.

    What I want/like: a strong front end and oversteer tendencies if I overcook it. Not sure if that qualifies as neutral-ish.


    Hardware:

    JRZ RS One
    Swift springs 100F (+ helper) / 120R (+ tender rate unknown)
    H&R sway bars (F soft, R stiff)
    ​​GC adjustable end links

    Rates translate to ~558lb and ~670lb

    Would dropping the front spring to 6kg (~335lb) be a good move?


    Click image for larger version

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Views:	638
Size:	75.7 KB
ID:	215352
    Attached Files
    Last edited by kaiv; 04-26-2023, 10:56 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • r4dr
    replied
    Originally posted by fattycharged View Post

    my consumer V3's just went in for a rebuild last week and I just got the call today that they don't want to rebuild them as they're slammed with race builds for the start of season, instead they're sending a new dampers from Germany.

    I never felt the V3's were stiff, always thought they were extremely compliant even on Houston streets.

    To SQ13's chagrin, I may just run them with some linear springs and see how they do 😘


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've heard good things about running proper linear springs with the V3s. The impression I got was that the V1/V2 is not worth messing around with, but the V3s are competent in the damping department.

    I don't remember the spring rates that the people were using, but I'm sure you can find it via Google. It was Harold @ HPA who was talking about this.

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    What can I say, I'm a glutton for punishment…


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

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