heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[heinzboehmer]

Was undoing all the track stuff from the car and found some fluid in the belly pan. Followed it up and saw this:



You can see the weep hole is facing forward, so I'm pretty sure the fluid didn't boil, but rather sloshed out of the reservoir under hard braking.

Ordered parts to build something similar to kaiv's catch can: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=29. Looks like kaiv's pics are dead, but this other post has some good ones: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=22. I know I could just put a sock on it, but I just don't want to be cleaning it up after every track day. Plus, I can never resist planning a new project.

Finally got around to doing this. Used the reservoir kaiv mentioned and then got some nice looking fuel line and a 90 degree connector (think it's 4mm OD):



First had to decide where to mount it. I wanted it above the PS reservoir, so that any fluid that went into it would drain back. Terrible picture, but there's a good amount of space directly above the reservoir, so that's where I decided to put it:



Next I made sure that the fitting I bought wasn't too long so that it wouldn't bottom out against the cap and block the weep hole:




After that came the bracket. Considered swapping out the aux coolant pump for the non-M one so that I could build a bracket from there, but ultimately decided that there wasn't a great place to attach to bracket to. Instead, I decided to attach the bracket to the wishbone looking mount for the airbox. Solidly mounted (enough) to the chassis and super easy to access for removal.

Here's what I came up with. Nothing special, just some cuts and holes in some aluminum angle:





Dug through my pile of "I probably shouldn't throw this bolt/nut out in case I can use it in the future" things for the hardware. Think I ended up using an old, cut down VANOS bolt and a taillight nut. They were both 10mm, which is what really matters.

Before assembling everything, I did what kaiv suggested and removed the seal in the reservoir. Was able to blow through it with little effort even with the cap fully tightened.




Then cut the fuel line to size, attached both ends and wrapped them in tesa tape to avoid fraying of the outer mesh. Heat shrink tubing would probably have been a better choice from this, but that would have involved leaving the garage to get it and would have ruined the whole "I built this exclusively out of things in the garage, most of them scrap" thing I had going on.



Installed on the car:




Bolted it up so that the only thing I need to remove to open up the PS reservoir is the 90 deg elbow connector on the cap. No need to remove the catch can or anything.

There's really no way for it to interfere with the airbox with how I've positioned it, but I put the unfiltered section back on and squeezed my phone in to check just in case:



Looks good! Pretty sure the condensation inside is from me blowing through it lol. A drive should take care of that.

Felt good to tackle a project that only took a couple hours start to finish, been doing too many long winded and overly complicated things lately. Also excited to not have to clean up fluids spills after track days now.

[heinzboehmer]

Do you have any pictures of the final install of the Slon wall (as in were you able to grind away the required material on the cups)?

Did you also notice any difference/improvements after it was installed?

Still have not installed that thing, unfortunately. This is still my only car, so I'm a bit wary to loose the extra trunk space with the seats folded down, but that might change soon. Also, the adhesive I want to use for this is the same adhesive as I'll use when I do a CF roof, so I'd like to combine those two installs because of its short shelf life.

I did have a conversation with Slon about this and yeah, sounds like grinding away some of the cups is the way to go. Wrote down the important bits from that conversation here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...585#post150585. Hope that helps!

[Mike RT4]

Jan 2022

New wheels!

Got some 18s for the street, as the 19s were quite tiring on rough roads and I wanted less unsprung mass. Tires are PS4Ss (which were not easy to source).

Front: 18x8.5" ET35 Race Silver APEX EC-7 with 235/40/18
Rear: 18x9.5" ET22 Race Silver APEX EC-7 with 265/35/18

Car looks great and (most importantly) rides a looot better.



Here's some weight data:

Front (each):

• Wheel 18": 20.4 lbs
• Tire 18": 21.6 lbs
• Wheel + tire 18": 42.1 lbs
• Wheel + tire 19": 47.9 lbs

Rear (each):

• Wheel + tire 18": 47.1 lbs
• Wheel + tire 19": 53.0 lbs

Saved 5.8 lbs per corner up front and 5.9 lbs per corner in the rear. Not bad!

Buut of course something had to happen. Drove for probably 200 mi before finding this in my left rear tire:



Ridiculous. Got it patched and all is good.


At some point, I also took my rear seats out, so I took the opportunity to test fit the Slon wall with the VinceBar cups in place. Looks great, but unfortunately does not fit that well because of the extra material that the cups add. Cups will need some grinding, but that shouldn't be terrible.

Do you have any pictures of the final install of the Slon wall (as in were you able to grind away the required material on the cups)?

Did you also notice any difference/improvements after it was installed?

[heinzboehmer]

Las thing I did was to get started on my custom seat cushion.

I talked about making an L shaped cushion before, but ultimately decided to split it up. Still going to be L shaped, but just made out of two separate pieces. This is mostly so that the sewing is simpler, but will also make the whole thing a bit more adjustable.

Started off by sketching out a cut/sew plan:



Then came translating the drawing to real things. As mentioned before, I have no idea what I'm doing. So instead of messing around with (and probably ruining) fabric, I turned to the trusty CAD:



These are the final versions of the templates that I ended up using:



Transferred onto the fabric:



The machine I got access to was honestly pretty nuts. It could do a bunch of complicated stitches and all you had to do was press the foot control and make sure the fabric was going through straight. Here's some of the stitch patterns I messed around with:



Crazy.

I do realize that me being blown away by this machine is probably the equivalent of someone being blown away by one of my torque wrenches, but I still thought it was super cool. Didn't end up using the machine for anything other than regular straight stitches, though.

Here's the first stitch I did:




And the final product:




I stiched everything inside out so that there wouldn't be flaps of fabric on the outside and tried to follow how Cobra made their cushion. Images above also show how I left a ton of extra material on the sides. Did this so that I have some room to play with if I ever want to make this cushion any thicker.

Here's the thing turned right side out:




Velcro strips are a bit crooked, but whatever. Decided to use these thinner strips because I felt that the super thick ones that Cobra uses are waay too grippy.

Then moved on to cutting out the foam. Thought that using scissors would work out well, but quickly learned that this was not the case. Edges turned out super jagged and it was really hard to make sure the cuts were orthogonal to the face of the foam:



It's good enough for now, but I want to redo the foam with some sort of hot knife thing.

Lastly, the test fit:




It fits quite well! Pretty happy with how this turned out, especially considering that I was learning how to do all this as I went along. Seat looks kinda stupid with the Cobra cushion pushed all the way up like that, but whatever, it's a lot more comfortable on the street like this,.

Next step is to replace those towels with a cushion wrapped in fabric that matches the Cobra cushions. Ordered some dinamica samples, so will get to that once I know what matches best.

[heinzboehmer]

Knocked out a few things this weekend.

First off, I noticed that the fabric on my A pillar covers was starting to get pretty bunched up when I ran all my new dashcam wiring. Glued it back on with some 3M super 77.

Masked and adhesive applied. Put a ton on because that seemed to be what worked best when I was trying it out:




Turned out great! They look brand new now:




Then I trimmed the plastic trim pieces that come on the stock seat rails so that they would fit onto the new rails with the nogaro brackets.






For the first one, I almost exclusively used a dremel to do all the trimming, but I found out with the second one that it was quicker and just as good to use a box cutter. I did have to remove a decent amount of material, so I added some foam and zip ties to keep everything from rattling:






And here's the final product. Much nicer looking than the naked rail, in my eyes:



After that, I mounted the fire extinguisher under the driver's seat. Used to have it under the passenger's seat before getting the nogaros, but it's much harder to reach that seat now, so I decided to move it over.

I just zip tied the plastic clip that came with the extinguisher to the substrap bar:



Fits quite well in between the sides of the substrap bar. However, it does sit pretty far back, so it's not super easy to reach. I can reach it no problem with the three point belt on (even with it locked), but can't reach it with a buckled harness. There aren't any other good spots to mount it on, so I added some string that I can reach when strapped in with the harness:



String goes up and is held below the bottom cushion by a small piece of velcro:



Pretty happy with how it turned out. Extinguisher is super easy to retrieve and is kept above the lowest solid part of the seat rails (substrap bar), so there's no danger of it getting crushed when moving the seat back and forth.