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e46 M3 Touring Conversion - To Europe and Back

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  • puma1824
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    By alert do you mean just one beep when you put the car in reverse, or do you mean PDC acting like there’s something behind you?

    Japanese (maybe some other markets?) had an extra wire to the PDC module to beep once when you put the car in reverse. If your car was retrofitted by creating a harness from WDS, it may have accidentally had this wire run. You can just unplug the correct wire from the gong above your feet if that’s the case.
    When I go in reverse the PDC is acting like there’s something behind the car.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by puma1824 View Post

    Actually, maybe lol...I keep meaning to troubleshoot why I get an "alert" whenever I go in reverse.
    By alert do you mean just one beep when you put the car in reverse, or do you mean PDC acting like there’s something behind you?

    Japanese (maybe some other markets?) had an extra wire to the PDC module to beep once when you put the car in reverse. If your car was retrofitted by creating a harness from WDS, it may have accidentally had this wire run. You can just unplug the correct wire from the gong above your feet if that’s the case.

    Leave a comment:


  • puma1824
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

    Oh cool! No false signals from being so close to the ground?
    Actually, maybe lol...I keep meaning to troubleshoot why I get an "alert" whenever I go in reverse.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Originally posted by puma1824 View Post

    Actually they were relocated. It's just hard to see in previously posted pics. See here:

    Click image for larger version

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    Oh cool! No false signals from being so close to the ground?

    Leave a comment:


  • puma1824
    replied
    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
    Does your park distance control still work with only the two side sensors? Just noticed that the middle two aren’t present.
    Actually they were relocated. It's just hard to see in previously posted pics. See here:

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Does your park distance control still work with only the two side sensors? Just noticed that the middle two aren’t present.

    Leave a comment:


  • puma1824
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    When you have 6.5" woofers, you only need 1" tweeters. E60 gen + went 3 way with 4" mids and 8" underseat, but e36/e46 era was the best with 2 way (5.25 then 6.5").

    No need for the 6x9s if you get a sub. The 6.5"s can play down to 80hz where sub will take over.

    Or keep the 6x9, and forgo a sub, but they won't move much air below 50hz.



    I only say something because you said "light weight" and you're already going a bit custom.​
    Yeah 100% agree won't need both the 6x9 and the sub. I need to figure out if I favor sound (bass) over form (hidden 6x9). I will definitely run one or the other but not both. We'll see if I'm satisfied with the limited bass out of the 6x9. I favor the single 10" over the two 6x9 BUT the only fitment I like is the custom fiberglass enclosure by Bimmerbox who no longer is in business. I can try and make one myself or have one made. Here's what I would prefer if I went single 10"

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    I only say something because you said "light weight" and you're already going a bit custom.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    When you have 6.5" woofers, you only need 1" tweeters. E60 gen + went 3 way with 4" mids and 8" underseat, but e36/e46 era was the best with 2 way (5.25 then 6.5").

    No need for the 6x9s if you get a sub. The 6.5"s can play down to 80hz where sub will take over.

    Or keep the 6x9, and forgo a sub, but they won't move much air below 50hz.

    Leave a comment:


  • puma1824
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    too many speakers
    Yeah they are all the same # of speaker that were there in a stock HK setup. I could not use the rear doors and rear trunk and left the front stage 3-way and add a sub. This is still an option I may entertain. Or keep the rear doors for a little rear fill but not use the 6x9 and run a single 8" or 10" sub.
    Last edited by puma1824; 12-08-2023, 08:38 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • puma1824
    replied
    Originally posted by usdmej View Post
    it'd be a real waste of aftermarket amplification and DSP if all you had to run them through were bavsound speakers, there are a good amount of non-invasive options that let you run aftermarket (real) speakers
    Unfortunately the speakers are already installed prior to the amp. I I would have not already had them I would have used different ones. I can still go the other aftermarket speaker route if the bavsound isn't cutting it but for now that's what's currently installed....unless someone wants to buy them off me LOL
    Last edited by puma1824; 12-08-2023, 08:38 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • usdmej
    replied
    it'd be a real waste of aftermarket amplification and DSP if all you had to run them through were bavsound speakers, there are a good amount of non-invasive options that let you run aftermarket (real) speakers

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    too many speakers

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  • puma1824
    replied
    Ok now that the car is back and I'm starting to look into upgrading the audio in the car. Here's the plan so far:

    Requirements:
    • Lightweight of a setup without sacrificing too much audio quality
    • Stealth - I know my head unit replacement choice is NOT and definitely doesn't look OEM, but I'd like the speakers to look OEM; thus Bavsound speakers
    • Add cleaner bass
    • Better audio quality than the current setup

    Specs:
    • Head Unit: Alpine iLX-705E46
    • Front Door Speakers: Bavsound Stage 1 3-way speakers (25mm Tweeters, 65mm (2.5") Mid, 6.25" MidBass)
    • Rear Door Speakers: Bavsound Stage 1 (65mm (2.5") Mid)
    • Rear Trunk / Hatch: CDT ES-690CFS (6x9)
    • Amp/DSP: Helix V Twelve DSP MK2
    • Subwoofer: ????
    Wiring Plan:​

    Click image for larger version

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  • puma1824
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    Time to find the appropriate insurance
    Attached Files

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