HanSooloo's 2004 Mystic Blue M3

[HanSooloo]

I bought this car in 2004 and have been the sole owner ever since. I love how the car drives and feels, and after many years of driving other cars, I still can't help but grin side to side every time I step on the gas pedal in it.

It has just a little over 84K miles on it at the moment. For the majority of its time, there were no modifications on the car. After a while I started thinking what I can do without losing the classic look.

So, below is quick glimpse of the story of this M3 ... I will create a post for each one and add pictures where I can. Some of the mods were done a long time ago when I was not into taking pictures .. so those will be verbal only :-)

The story:

1. The First Mod
2. The Lull
3. Don't Like the Yellow, Let's do White
4. Rear LED Taillights Broke, Switching to Aftermarket
5. Torrential Downpour? Prefer to be More Visible to People Coming Behind Me
6. The CSL Jitter Starts
7. Can I Get Better Media Please?
8. Major Mods Project, The Exterior
9. Major Mods Project, Car Go Vrrrooom

[HanSooloo]

The First Mod

Probably 2 years after I got the car, installed the OEM garage door opener, since it didn't come with one from the factory. Really appreciated the convenience and not needing to keep an additional clicker in the car that would cause clutter.

It was probably one of the simpler mods with easy access to the required wiring, etc.

From memory, this is what I had to do:

1. Confirm the car is pre-wired by checking the emblems on the trunk lid. Need to have one that says "BMW Universal Garage Door Opener".
2. Pop open the interior light panel using a plastic pry tool. This is the panel that has the 3 rectangular buttons close to the front of the car.
3. Pull down the larger panel with the mic grill and the moon roof button using the empty space where the interior light panel used to be. You should pull down and out towards you so that the clips are not damaged.
4. Disconnect the mic cable from the mic on the panel.
5. Using a box cutter or similar tool, cut along indentation on the reverse side of the panel (plastic side, not the fabric side). This area is prepped for the installation of the garage door opener, which makes it easy. You may need to repeat the cutting motion couple of times to break the plastic away from the assembly.
6. Using the box cutter, make an X shaped incision on the exposed fabric from one corner to the other. It should look like a big X filling the exposed rectangular area. Flip the cut fabric inwards so that it wouldn't be visible once mounted back up.
7. Insert the garage door opener in through the hole in the panel, making sure that the numbers would point the correct way, as shown in the picture below.
8. Pull the pre-wired garage door opener wiring harness from the right side of the opening where the panel was originally attached. This would be to the right of the moon roof motor.
9. Plug the wire to the garage door opener.
10. Mount the panel back up.
11. Mount the interior light panel back up.

[HanSooloo]

The Lull

For a long while, I did not bother installing anything else. The formula on these cars is so good that you just enjoy driving it as is.


Don't Like the Yellow, Let's do White

Looking at other more modern cars after a few years, the yellowish fog light started bothering me. Found a company that made white light bulb replacements. With those, the car looked better overall.

[HanSooloo]

Rear LED Taillights Broke, Switching to Aftermarket

At some point, the original LED rear taillight assembly broke and I started looking into getting an aftermarket one. The goal was not go go overboard, but get something that would fit in with the overall look of the car. Ended up getting the AKKON from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/04-06-Doors-Coupe-Design-Lights/dp/B01KYX5G1A. Apparently, this item is no longer available from Amazon, but it might be available elsewhere.

[HanSooloo]

Torrential Downpour? Prefer to be More Visible to People Coming Behind Me

Next thing that came to mind was installing rear fog lights, similar to the ones in euro cars. Having grown up there, was used having the rear fog lights available to increase visibility in bad weather conditions. Ordered an LCM from eBay that had the euro face plate with the rear fog light button.

Installing that one, was probably my first _true_ project. Never removed major parts of the car to do an install before, especially with electrical and wiring. However, over the course of a weekend, I was able to get the install done.

Most painful part was fishing the wires from the rear fog lights through the trunk lid wire bundle hose (is that the right word for it?) to the trunk area.

After that was done, moved to the front of the car, removed the old LCM out and swapped the face plate with the one from the unit I bough on eBay. This wasn't enough, since I needed the control signal wire to go back to the trunk to connect to the fog lights.

I bought some general OEM electrical wire, connected it to the LCM and started running it down from the LCM, through the foot well and towards the back of the car. I had to remove the floor panels where the hood release lever is, removed the door sills to gain access to the wire bundles running alongside the carpet and add my single wire to that bundle, tying it up to the bundle with velcro strips to keep it secure. I had the wire running in heat shrink tubes for added protection, not sure if that was necessary or not .. but thought, extra precaution cannot hurt.

Then, finally, the wire coming from the LCM met with the wire coming from the fog lights, and that was it! I had functioning rear fog lights.

Needless to say, the next day, on the highway, I drove through the heaviest rain in a few years and was glad that I had the install completed in time. I was happy that I was able to increase my visibility in those horrid conditions.

[HanSooloo]

The CSL Jitter Starts

Can't recall how it started, but about 2 years ago started watching a few videos on how great the CSL was and how it was the epitome of car making from BMW. But, if I had to pick one, I would probably say this one is the most influential: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgBQSn9A4yk

At first, I thought, hmm... maybe I can import one .. but that was not going to happen .. without spending a ridiculous amount of money that wouldn't really be worth it. So, what can I do?

It started with the CSL wheels that look really cool. However, at the time I started looking into it, those wheels were NLA. So, I got the closest one ... the CS wheels.

[HanSooloo]

Can I Get Better Media Please?

More and more, I was wanting to get in the car, and just get my music streaming through the car's speakers. AKA, I wanted wireless CarPlay. With a nice full screen display in the head unit if I could. So, I installed an Avin AVANT 4 head unit together with the wireless CarPlay adapter.

The original wireless CarPlay adapter kept disconnecting, so had to send it back for replacement. Avin sent a new one, and it has worked flawlessly ever since.

[HanSooloo]

Major Mods Project, The Exterior

At this point, my mind was set on getting the carbon air box and other things that would elevate the driving experience and give it better looks in several places. So, this is what the major project was going to look like:

1. Karbonius carbon fiber trunk lid
2. Karbonius carbon fiber GTS style roof
3. Carbon fiber rear diffuser
4. Karbonius carbon fiber front bumper splitters

I also thought, adding a rear-view camera integrated with the AVIN Avant 4 would make the parking experience better. So, went with this unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o06_s00

I worked with D&V Autobody Masters in Sterling, VA to get the installation done, as I just didn't trust myself with something like "aligning the trunk lid so that it looks nice". Jason has been super helpful in working with me, understanding my specific setup and what I needed to get done.

One interesting thing that I was told was that some body shops stopped installing after market roofs to cars due to "recent issues with insurance companies". I guess there were potential liability issues in case the car got into an accident and somebody got injured.

[HanSooloo]

Major Mods Project, Car Go Vrrooom

Now it is time to pay attention to the juicy parts that will give that exhilarating driving experience. For that, Karbonius and some OEM parts are the go to items.

Again, I trusted a professional doing this kind of work, since I never got into the engine bay for mods, etc. The choice for me was RRT Racing in Sterling, VA. James was great, listening to my project needs, giving me advice in several areas as we worked on the project list together.

1. Karbonius air box: https://karbonius.net/producto/bmw-m...will=twill-2x2
2. Karbonius M3 E46 airbox heat insulation kit: https://karbonius.net/producto/karbo...nsulation-kit/
3. ITG CSL Airbox Airfilter: https://karbonius.net/producto/itg-c...box-airfilter/
4. PSDesigns carbon fiber polen filter housing: https://www.psdesignsglobal.com/_sho...lter-housing-/
5. Karbonius carbon fiber micro filter cover: https://karbonius.net/producto/bmw-e..._varnish=gloss
6. OEM CSL snorkel, flap, and related hoses: various eBay and ECS Tuning purchases
7. Schrick 280/272 cams with followers (ordered through RRT): https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-lift/?pdk=AgE
8. Ohlin's BMS MI30 coilovers (ordered through RRT): https://www.ohlins.com/product/road-track/bmw-m3-2001-2005-e46/
9. SuperSprint 63.5mm stepped headers (44001), section-1 with sport cats (44002), and resonated twin-pipe section-2 (44003). This was through the group buy in the forum.

This part has not started yet ... I just got the car back from D&V the other day. Will take some more pictures for the previous posts, and then take the car to RRT. Can't wait for the end result!

[HanSooloo]

Gotta Do the Big 3

While at RRT, I talked to James about taking care of the big 3 as well. So, will be getting the following done:

1. Rod bearings
2. VANOS rebuild
3. Sub-frame reinforcement

[HanSooloo]

Into the Shop It Goes

Posting some updates after a long break. I had the car at RRT Racing for the updates mentioned in post 9 and 10.

Even though I had supplied most of the parts, turned out that I didn't have the MAP sensor and related items. James recommended the kit from Kassel. At first I was thinking about getting the original CSL air rail and related parts. But that would be too expensive. For what it does, the Kassel kit seemed like a better fit for the job.

Once everything was done, there was a problem starting the car. It would crank, fire up, and then stop. Not the infamous "no crank" one. James was suspecting a tune issue at first, and then mentioned that a sensor cable was not connected properly.

However, this might have been more related to a DME - EWS sync issue (more on that later). Eventually, they figured it out and the car was ready for pick up.

[HanSooloo]

First Driving Impressions

Ride Handling and Quality

With the Öhlins setup at the factory default ride height, which I believe is 20 mm lower than OEM, and the firmness set at 15 clicks (might be 12, been a while), the car felt really great. I believe this would be in the middle of the range of 30 clicks from firmest to softest.

It had so much more character turning in, and handling in twisty turny back roads. However, the car was perhaps bottoming out a bit (the odd DUNK / BONK sound, did I just invent a sound effect?)

Also, while parked, the car looked a bit too low for my taste. I am not track enthusiast and drive the car for some occasional daily routines, and weekend fun.

[HanSooloo]

Performance

Given the list of modifications, thought it was a good idea to do a 1,200 mile break in before going crazy with the car. Even with 75% throttle and not going past 6,000 RPM, the car felt great. That intake sound during acceleration is literally addictive. I don't ever remember hearing anything that is this much fun, save the good old V10's in F1 (I know, not fair comparison, but, oh well )

In Sport mode, up to 3,000 RPM, the car felt like a domestic old cat, a bit unreluctant to do anything. But, past 3,300 RPM, that growl kicked in and the car kept accelerating faster and faster.

That was also the source of a bit of a surprise where the car's low-end character became much tamer, something I wasn't used to from before. I remember, sitting at a traffic light, if I tapped the gas pedal with a bit of enthusiasm, the engine would spin up so fast that it would buck the car visibly. I could see the car trying to flip on its side. With the changes, now, it would almost feel like saying "really, you want me to go? but I was just chilling here"

I attributed to this change in behavior to not having a proper tune on the car to extract the best out of the equipment installed on the car.

[HanSooloo]

CSL Software on the Upgraded MSS54 HP DME

I connected EcuWorxx DME Utility to check the car, and saw that it had software version 211325000401-PD11 installed on it. From what I understand, this is the original European OBD version of the original CSL software.

Doing a bit of research on the cam offset settings for K_EVAN1_OFFSET (intake) and K_AVAN1_OFFSET (exhaust), I was able to find the following.

	Camshaft Offsets
	Intake	Exhaust
Tune Type	K_EVAN1_OFFSET	K_AVAN1_OFFSET
Base E46 M3	-2.0	1.0
Stock CSL / Kassel E46 M3 CSL	3.0	-2.0
Schrick 280/272 recommended	0.0	1.0

So, here's an interesting question: the values on Kassel's tune match the stock CSL values from the 211325000401PD11.bin tune file. But, why are they so different compared to the recommended settings for 280/272 cams?

Is that because the Schrick 280/272 cams have a different geometry compared to the CSL cams?

[HanSooloo]

Updates to Cam Settings

Thinking that the difference in cam settings could be contributing to the tameness I was mentioning before, I updated them to the 280/272 recommended settings. The car felt a bit more alive, but still not the same jumpiness it had from before the mods.

Again, would be curious to hear about the comments on this one. Likely, still in need of a proper tune.