Tonight’s shenanigans.
- new FCABS
- new control arms installed 1/3 of the way :-)
- front struts built with Koni yellows. Yes, I too wish I remembered to get new bellows. They’re not 200k original, so that’s good!
- 1 rear RTAB (ran out of steam) w/ z4 bushings and a single limiter, aka the Bry5on way.
- new tie rods measured and ready to be fitted
Front assemblies are ready to be installed and stored in a classy box :-) wait, wait they need new rotors and pads first.
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Trent's S54 Rebuild and Sedan Swap
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Because I can't be out-paced by Bry5on 's updates... (guy is casually installing VinceBars and fabbing tow equipment on his lunchbreak, gtfo guy 😀)
Tonight's garage activities:
- Put on some old Counting Crows... Roooounnnnd here
- Torque'd every rear suspension fastener save for RTABs and Swaybar
- Fitted Bry5on 's washer fluid tank hand-me-downs, which I'm very grateful for
- Re-wired some engine bay wiring to accommodate new washer tank location. Re-wrapped with Super 88. Parfait.
- New headlight covers. I really dislike the silver headlight shrouds on Sport package cars, and alas the black M3 shrouds did not fit. Living it with it for now, begrudgingly.
- New D2s Phillips (originals were not really performing anymore). Perhaps one day I'll add some Lightwerz, but nein today.
- Removed as much of the headlight washer equipment that was reasonable and didn't require fabrication
- Fitted mrgizmo04 's M3 aux fan, which I'm also very thankful for
- Fixed Loose fuel tank with some new foam pads on the top of the tank (old ones were decrepit) and added some tank strap rubber. It's tight!Last edited by tlow98; 05-21-2023, 09:13 PM.
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haha, you mean that gaping hole that I looked at and ignored? I’ll prolly nutsert that one too. If it starts rattling after installing the motor I’ll never forgive myself.Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
There are four total studs on the MK60 M3 - one goes into the hole next to the brake line. I’m planning to add all three studs with the stud welder at some point but if you don’t have any issues with just the two, that’s good to know.
i kept the hood insulation but it interferes absolutely everywhere, secondary O2, coolant cap, intake ducting, radiator shrouds. Honestly I’m not sure why I still have it.
Do you have a strut brace? It’ll interfere with that too.
thanks for calling it out!
yes, have a strut brace - stock m3. I’ll prolly just remove the insulation pad…
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There are four total studs on the MK60 M3 - one goes into the hole next to the brake line. I’m planning to add all three studs with the stud welder at some point but if you don’t have any issues with just the two, that’s good to know.Originally posted by tlow98 View Post
The mk60 m3 has three studs yeah? My donor was an mk20 car so if memory serves it just had three studs and those hollow metal nuts for tie-down. The 330i has one stud conveniently located in the same spot as the center stud on the M3. In the mk60 330i it’s there to hold down the brake line only. It seems to work well as doubly-duty brake like and heat shield tie-down.
I suppose I’d have to find or install another stud to hold down the brake line if I went with the stock hole nut on the heat shield?
the plastic screw-on clip is nice and snug on the stud and holds down the heat shield well… so far.
you thinking of a different arrangement?
PS, coolant overflow tank fits about like you described. Thanks for that. Also, did you keep or remove your hood insulation?
i kept the hood insulation but it interferes absolutely everywhere, secondary O2, coolant cap, intake ducting, radiator shrouds. Honestly I’m not sure why I still have it.
Do you have a strut brace? It’ll interfere with that too.
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The mk60 m3 has three studs yeah? My donor was an mk20 car so if memory serves it just had three studs and those hollow metal nuts for tie-down. The 330i has one stud conveniently located in the same spot as the center stud on the M3. In the mk60 330i it’s there to hold down the brake line only. It seems to work well as doubly-duty brake like and heat shield tie-down.Originally posted by Bry5on View PostEnvious of that heat shield. I see you skipped the third fastener, the plastic brake line bracket works well enough?
I suppose I’d have to find or install another stud to hold down the brake line if I went with the stock hole nut on the heat shield?
the plastic screw-on clip is nice and snug on the stud and holds down the heat shield well… so far.
you thinking of a different arrangement?
PS, coolant overflow tank fits about like you described. Thanks for that. Also, did you keep or remove your hood insulation?
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Envious of that heat shield. I see you skipped the third fastener, the plastic brake line bracket works well enough?
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Moves about 1/4” vertically. Odd right? It’s possible I mixed up the straps from the 330i with the m3 ones, but that shouldn’t matter as the tank is the same. Just the innards are different.Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
Empty tank? How loose?
Even with an empty tank that doesn't sound right. Straps on mine were pretty tight after going back in
and yes, tank is completely empty.
the pads on the top are still there.
I did find some other complaints about this after searching but no real answers as to why.
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Empty tank? How loose?Originally posted by tlow98 View Postquestions:
- has anyone else noticed the tank being looser after removing and reinstalling? The pads on the top are there, but the straps in the bottom are loose. Odd.
Even with an empty tank that doesn't sound right. Straps on mine were pretty tight after going back in
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Did the following over the last week or so. Work on the recipient:
Rearend work:
- Rear axle CVs.
- all 4 ball joints
- new CLAs
- e36 m3 diff mounts
- new sway bar bushings and links
- soon to be z4 RTABS
Fuel system work:
- complete m3 tank
- complete m3 lines
- m3 air line
- new fuel filter
- new vacuum line
Wiring:
- extend coolant sensor line
- Kassel ms43 swap checklist
- DSC line for TPMS
- install cluster
Random:
-Coolant reservoir brackets epoxy and rivet
- mk60 m3 booster and master install
NOTES:
- a donor car really adds a lot of value with a full swap. I’ll add more details here as I go.
- when installing the booster loosen the main brake pedal bracket and booster connection to the brake pedal only. This will give you the ability to pivot the assembly and get the booster rod off pretty easily.
questions:
- has anyone else noticed the tank being looser after removing and reinstalling? The pads on the top are there, but the straps in the bottom are loose. Odd.
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That's exactly what I ended up doing with my motor for the same reasons. Threads like this make me want to rebuild another engine.Originally posted by tlow98 View PostI went back to BMW's main bearings to get the factory clearance. ACL mains are only available in two sizes; factory and an oversize for when crank work is needed. This led to above spec clearance on a number of journals. I want a factory-like experience with this motor, so I went with BMW mains. Now, the ACL rod bearings were all perfect, so I kept them.
The BMW bearings are available in 3 regular sizes (plus three sizes in over bores) and I was able to get just about dead-center clearance with them.
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Apologies. Been busy with the build and other parts of life. The engine is completely assembled. The swap is happening on the sedan currently, and the donor car is gone.Originally posted by Slideways View PostAny updates?
Are you still using ACL main bearings or going OE?
I went back to BMW's main bearings to get the factory clearance. ACL mains are only available in two sizes; factory and an oversize for when crank work is needed. This led to above spec clearance on a number of journals. I want a factory-like experience with this motor, so I went with BMW mains. Now, the ACL rod bearings were all perfect, so I kept them.
The BMW bearings are available in 3 regular sizes (plus three sizes in over bores) and I was able to get just about dead-center clearance with them.
Here are some pics :-)
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