MasterC17's HPDE/Time Attack Track Car (Re)Build

[MasterC17]

A bunch of minor updates.

Front Windshield Installed
Rear Lexan Window Installed
New Alternator & Pullies
12V Battery Tray Cut (Needs Paint)
Shortened Fuse Box Cable
Idled Motor up to Temp
Drove 10ft

I think there's light at the end of the tunnel!

[MasterC17]

Always willing to help an OG and share experiences. I'd probably leave it. If you start getting weird or intermittent readings from the sensor then you know what you have to do. I just used a crimp on ring terminal and put it between the sensor and the fitting. Then used one of the thermostat bolts on top of the lift bracket as a ground.

Fvcking VAC!!! lol

I was able to get the pin out and fortunately this one is grounded to the AIM!

[bigjae46]

It is yes! Hmm, I honestly don't know lol! I'll try to check, it's a 4-pin connector but I'm not sure if all four are used.

Appreciate all your help through this build!

Always willing to help an OG and share experiences. I'd probably leave it. If you start getting weird or intermittent readings from the sensor then you know what you have to do. I just used a crimp on ring terminal and put it between the sensor and the fitting. Then used one of the thermostat bolts on top of the lift bracket as a ground.

Fvcking VAC!!! lol

[MasterC17]

Sensors are configured and working - hooray!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ModCTZwZ3NbZffE97

[MasterC17]

Is that the VAC water pipe? If the sensor is 1 wire you’ll need to ground it or you’ll get an intermittent reading.

It is yes! Hmm, I honestly don't know lol! I'll try to check, it's a 4-pin connector but I'm not sure if all four are used.

Appreciate all your help through this build!

[bigjae46]

Is that the VAC water pipe? If the sensor is 1 wire you’ll need to ground it or you’ll get an intermittent reading.

[MasterC17]

MAP Sensor Wired
MSS54HP tuned by HTE
AIM Oil Pressure Sensor Installed
AIM Oil Temp Sensor Installed
AIM Coolant Temp Sensor Installed

Failed to get the Fuel Level Sensor working.

[MasterC17]

Nice!

BTW...your valve cover is dirty! haha

Are planning to reinstall the dash and/or use the OE instrument cluster?

Haha yeah I'll have to make it look prettier at some point!

Dash will be going back in, and just using the AIM MXL Pista for now (old school I know).

[bigjae46]

Nice!

BTW...your valve cover is dirty! haha

Are planning to reinstall the dash and/or use the OE instrument cluster?

[MasterC17]

It runs! Took a bit of an effort, but we were able to start the motor today. Other than one noisy pulley it sounds great!

Still many details to get sorted out before an event, but massive progress from six months ago.



Obligatory first start video!

https://youtube.com/shorts/B7nTnksYNIg?feature=share

[bigjae46]

The solenoid valve on 11617833212? If so, that's very surprising. Wiring diagram shows it going to the DME only.

There is a lead that goes from the hall effect switch to the DME which I am assuming activates the lead going to the solenoid. Not sure if it makes a difference, I have an LCI with the LED tail lights as well.

And I had a push button switch in place of the hall effect sensor. I wasn't confident in the reliability of the push button either.

[MasterC17]

The solenoid valve on 11617833212? If so, that's very surprising. Wiring diagram shows it going to the DME only.

Agreed - I don't remember exactly what I did, to be fair, but I removed the LCM back in 2013 and ran that way for two years without any issues.

[heinzboehmer]

You really can't delete the LCM unless you find another way to control the solenoid on the brake booster vacuum line....learned that the hard way.

The solenoid valve on 11617833212? If so, that's very surprising. Wiring diagram shows it going to the DME only.

[bigjae46]

Wow - now that's some intense wire thinning! May I ask how you did the wiring after removing the EWS? Did you add a relay?

Intense is a good way to describe it. I actually deleted too much and had to go back and put wiring back in...that sucked. You really can't delete the LCM unless you find another way to control the solenoid on the brake booster vacuum line....learned that the hard way.

The red toggle switch has +12v in and goes to a fused distro block.

The start/stop button has the lead coming from the solenoid to a larger 40a SPDT relay. The other side of the trigger is connected to ignition. The coil has 12v and a ground which goes to the start/stop button. The other side of the start/stop is grounded. When the button is pressed, it closes a ground loop which powers the coil in the relay, closes the contact and applies 12v to the starter.

Then all of the ignition positions in the fuse box are turned on and off with the red toggle. So if I flip the toggle down it shuts the car off.

[MasterC17]

Damn, I missed the post about wire harness thinning. I only have 4 modules left in my car - ECU, DSC, LCM and the fuel pump relay. Maybe the Hall effect switch on the brake pedal if you consider that a module.

Everything else can be deleted.

You can delete the fuse box, I used two 10 position distro blocks - one for +12v and one switched. I have a cut off switch - the e-cut off and an ignition switch in the dash - I probably could have gotten by with a single 12-16 position fuse box.

Wow - now that's some intense wire thinning! May I ask how you did the wiring after removing the EWS? Did you add a relay?