Karter16's Silbergrau E46 M3 Journal

[Slideways]

I don't believe so realistically. Even within the same model number there's different firmware and app versions etc. I imagine it would end in sadness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a feeling that was going to be the answer lol

BTW, for the map sensor, you can easily trim off 1.5mm off the nose of the sensor to fit it to the CSL air rail.

[karter16]

Would there be a way to clone the software with all the customization to another identical Xtrons unit?

I don't believe so realistically. Even within the same model number there's different firmware and app versions etc. I imagine it would end in sadness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Slideways]

Would there be a way to clone the software with all the customization to another identical Xtrons unit?

[karter16]

I had some time today to get a few bits and pieces done. You've probably seem me previously bemoaning my headliner and B/C pillar fabric letting go. I realise that this is standard for an E46, but I dealt with this previously on my 318i, so I'm just over it this time around.

Anyway, today I took out the B/C pillar pieces that needed fixing and re-glued the fabric using Scotch 77 Adhesive. It was pretty easy to do, the key things are to only apply the adhesive to the trim, not to the fabric (make sure the fabric is completely shielded). And then wait a few minutes for the glue to tack up and then very gently apply the fabric, gently brushing (caressing even) it with your finger. Being 20 years old the trim wasn't in perfect condition anyway, so it still has a few minor marks/scrapes from age, but will tide me over until I take the headliner out and redo it.

Secondly I finally figured out how to get the right-hand encoder knob on the Xtrons mapped to iDrive Launcher to navigate the menus. See the video below for what I mean:

The video ends when I hit play in CarPlay,presumably my phone can't video and drive CarPlay at the same time. But what I was trying to show was that when ZLink (CarPlay) is open, the right knob can still be used to play/pause and navigate forwards/backwards through your playlist.

To get this working you need to configure the short and long press on the right encoder button as follows in Factory Settings -> Touch Settings -> Panel Key (You can ignore my mappings of other keys - they're from experimenting and are not important)




And turn on Control Mappings and map "Scroll Up, Scroll Down, Navigate left and Enter key as follows in iDrive Launcher Settings -> Controls.



I'm very happy to get this going as Android stereos are renowned for the right encoder not being mappable. on the IX8246BHL the rotary encoder is mapped to KEYCODE_MEDIA_PREVIOUS and KEYCODE_MEDIA_NEXT and it is the fact that it is mapped to actual Android key codes that makes this possible. Please note that I have no idea whether this would work on any other Xtrons unit - you'd have to try it yourself.

Limitations? I'm not too sure of what all the limitations are as I'll need to play around with it more first, but I'll update here as I find anything. Very happy to have this working properly now. I don't have any particular day to day burning need for it, but it was annoying me that I had it almost working but not quite.

[0-60motorsports]

Awesome well let's keep in touch then, and hopefully between us we can come up with the optimal solution.

So what I'm envisaging is something like this.

The sensor itself has 1 mounting hole.



And supposedly the sensor needs to be stood off from the air rail by about 1.5mm. So what I'm thinking is making up a 3D printed piece that is made up of a 1.5mm thick surface across the mating face of the sensor, plus also the "missing mounting point" on the other side of the sensor. The idea would be that it could be bonded to the sensor and the end result would be a sensor that has two mounting wings and is the right size to mount to the rail.

Here's a horrible mouse-drawing of what I mean:



Ultimately though I need to get both the rail and sensor in hand to validate the fitment before going too far with this idea.

If you do make that I would be interested in getting one for a replacement sensor for my OE CSL setup. Back up for the future if needed. Great work.

[0-60motorsports]

Hey so just again with the caveat that I haven't done this yet, and what I'm doing is just based on my own research (I am not an expert).

Yeah that's my understanding. The original CSL MAP sensor (13627833561) is ideal but is NLA. The BMW replacement (12528091765) is a bit of a hack job and an aesthetic disaster. As you note the discussion on CSL register identifies 0261230101 as a possible replacement and I've decided to go down that path. It should be noted that in that discussion Tom notes that the nose on the sensor is approx 1.5mm too long. The sensor also has 1x mounting hole rather than 2. Once I have the parts in hand I plan to check this, and if it is indeed the case that it needs to be stood off slightly, I intend to CAD design a spacer which the sensor can be glued to to hold it in the right position. If this works out then yes, I think it will be a better option than the BMW replacement item, but that depends on me being able to make it fit properly.

Comes up as SAAB Knock Sensor LOL

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/saab-knock-sensor-bosch-0261230101

[bavarian3]

Here's my parts list. Few caveats:

1: I haven't actually done the project, so don't know what I've got wrong/missed
2: I'm going for close to CSL clone + minimal wiring change, so my parts list reflects that
3: This is for a MAP sensor install


- 1x Airbox (I'll be going with Karbonius's "full carbon" box)
- 1x Snorkel (not yet decided, but probably Haimus Racing (Streamline)'s snorkel as I'm not a fan of the CF snorkels and the Haimus one best replicates the black ABS look of the original)
- 1x OE CSL Air Filter, 13727838625
- 1x OE CSL Secondary Air Rail, 13417833597 (Note that there are numerous adapter options to reuse your existing secondary air rail)
- 1x Bosch MAP Sensor, Bosch P/N 0261230101
- 1x Bosch 3 Pin connector, Bosch P/N 1928403966
- 1x Turner IAT Relocation Harness, Turner P/N 014579TMS
- 6x OE Throttle Body Boots, 11617830265 (Note that this is only necessary if you have a late style standard airbox otherwise you can reuse your existing boots)
- 6x Hose Clamps, 11617830306
- 6x Hose Clamps, 11617831745
- 1x Intake Air Temp Sensor, 13621739510
- 1x Socket housing, 12521427615 (spare if needed)
- 1x Protection cap, 12521427615 (OE one to replace straight one on Turner harness)
- 1x OE CSL Crankcase Oil Separator Hose, 11157833649
- 1x OE CSL Air Shutoff Valve, 11617833647 (Note there are options to cut up and reuse your standard one)
- 1x OE CSL Dipstick,11437834784 (Note alternatively you can just bend/rotate your existing dipstick tube and reuse your existing dipstick)
- 1x OE CSL Dipstick guide tube, 11437833653 (As above, you can reuse your existing one by rotating/bending it, with the added advantage you can access dipstick without removing airbox)
- 1x OE CSL SMG Reservoir, 21532282549 (Only for SMG cars)
- NOTE: I have not included 1x OE CSL SMG Reservoir bracket, 41147896136 as I intend to CAD design my own to take advantage of the existing threaded stud on the strut tower
- 2x Bolts for MAP sensor, 07119902626 (Note that if you're using the MAP sensor above it only has 1x mounting hole, so strictly only need 1 of these)
- 4x OE screws for CSL Airbox, 07119905016 (Note that the Karbonius box comes with black screws, I've ordered these as prefer the look of the original hardware)
- 4x OE screws for CSL snorkel, 07119901780 (Again just for the looks)
- Additional wiring, corrugated metal conduit, etc. for manufacturing custom harness to connect straight to MAF harness plug.

Hope this helps but please do note that a bunch of this is beyond what's "necessary" to get the airbox in and working and is tailored specifically to how I want to approach it :-)

amazing. thank you for this!

[ugaexploder]

Definitely see where you're going with it and I'm on board, please let me know how I can help!

[karter16]

Definitely understand as I think we're in a similar boat at the moment. It is a bit confusing to piece together everything on the interwebs but I think I have it right in my noggin now.

Look forward to hear how your install goes as I would like to follow a similar approach.

Do you think maybe some sort of clamp would work? I'd hate to do something odd like put a binder clip on there, but there has to be a more elegant solution for those who want to go with a CSL air rail.

Awesome well let's keep in touch then, and hopefully between us we can come up with the optimal solution.

So what I'm envisaging is something like this.

The sensor itself has 1 mounting hole.



And supposedly the sensor needs to be stood off from the air rail by about 1.5mm. So what I'm thinking is making up a 3D printed piece that is made up of a 1.5mm thick surface across the mating face of the sensor, plus also the "missing mounting point" on the other side of the sensor. The idea would be that it could be bonded to the sensor and the end result would be a sensor that has two mounting wings and is the right size to mount to the rail.

Here's a horrible mouse-drawing of what I mean:



Ultimately though I need to get both the rail and sensor in hand to validate the fitment before going too far with this idea.

[ugaexploder]

Definitely understand as I think we're in a similar boat at the moment. It is a bit confusing to piece together everything on the interwebs but I think I have it right in my noggin now.

Look forward to hear how your install goes as I would like to follow a similar approach.

Do you think maybe some sort of clamp would work? I'd hate to do something odd like put a binder clip on there, but there has to be a more elegant solution for those who want to go with a CSL air rail.

[karter16]

I also sourced a CSL air rail in preparation for my intake installation as well, and curious on your thoughts regarding the MAP sensor.

I understand the part number you have listed (0261230101) is the one recommended in the thread below.

https://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14786

Do you believe this is a better solution than running the original MAP sensor (12528091765)?

EDIT: I just had it wrong in my head. It seems like the threads all reference 12528091765 as the one that doesn't fit right on a CSL air rail. The old part number 13627833561 seems to be the one that is impossible to find that fits perfect. Curious but where did you happen to purchase the 0261230101? As it looks like that is the route I will have to take also.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...627833561~geb/

Hey so just again with the caveat that I haven't done this yet, and what I'm doing is just based on my own research (I am not an expert).

Yeah that's my understanding. The original CSL MAP sensor (13627833561) is ideal but is NLA. The BMW replacement (12528091765) is a bit of a hack job and an aesthetic disaster. As you note the discussion on CSL register identifies 0261230101 as a possible replacement and I've decided to go down that path. It should be noted that in that discussion Tom notes that the nose on the sensor is approx 1.5mm too long. The sensor also has 1x mounting hole rather than 2. Once I have the parts in hand I plan to check this, and if it is indeed the case that it needs to be stood off slightly, I intend to CAD design a spacer which the sensor can be glued to to hold it in the right position. If this works out then yes, I think it will be a better option than the BMW replacement item, but that depends on me being able to make it fit properly.

[ugaexploder]

I also sourced a CSL air rail in preparation for my intake installation as well, and curious on your thoughts regarding the MAP sensor.

I understand the part number you have listed (0261230101) is the one recommended in the thread below.

https://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14786

Do you believe this is a better solution than running the original MAP sensor (12528091765)?

EDIT: I just had it wrong in my head. It seems like the threads all reference 12528091765 as the one that doesn't fit right on a CSL air rail. The old part number 13627833561 seems to be the one that is impossible to find that fits perfect. Curious but where did you happen to purchase the 0261230101? As it looks like that is the route I will have to take also.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-european-bmw-parts/csl-map-sensor-no-longer-available/13627833561~geb/

[karter16]

A bit lazy of a response here, but would love to see a part list or one you referenced as I'm in the same boat. Plan to install after my next smog in a year.

Here's my parts list. Few caveats:

1: I haven't actually done the project, so don't know what I've got wrong/missed
2: I'm going for close to CSL clone + minimal wiring change, so my parts list reflects that
3: This is for a MAP sensor install


- 1x Airbox (I'll be going with Karbonius's "full carbon" box)
- 1x Snorkel (not yet decided, but probably Haimus Racing (Streamline)'s snorkel as I'm not a fan of the CF snorkels and the Haimus one best replicates the black ABS look of the original)
- 1x OE CSL Air Filter, 13727838625
- 1x OE CSL Secondary Air Rail, 13417833597 (Note that there are numerous adapter options to reuse your existing secondary air rail)
- 1x Bosch MAP Sensor, Bosch P/N 0261230101
- 1x Bosch 3 Pin connector, Bosch P/N 1928403966 (make sure you get the kit that includes the connector as well as the terminals, seals, etc.)
- 1x Turner IAT Relocation Harness, Turner P/N 014579TMS
- 6x OE Throttle Body Boots, 11617830265 (Note that this is only necessary if you have a late style standard airbox otherwise you can reuse your existing boots)
- 6x Hose Clamps, 11617830306
- 6x Hose Clamps, 11617831745
- 1x Intake Air Temp Sensor, 13621739510
- 1x Socket housing, 12521427615 (spare if needed)
- 1x Protection cap, 12521427615 (OE one to replace straight one on Turner harness)
- 1x OE CSL Crankcase Oil Separator Hose, 11157833649
- 1x OE CSL Air Shutoff Valve, 11617833647 (Note there are options to cut up and reuse your standard one)
- 1x OE CSL Dipstick,11437834784 (Note alternatively you can just bend/rotate your existing dipstick tube and reuse your existing dipstick)
- 1x OE CSL Dipstick guide tube, 11437833653 (As above, you can reuse your existing one by rotating/bending it, with the added advantage you can access dipstick without removing airbox)
- 1x OE CSL SMG Reservoir, 21532282549 (Only for SMG cars)
- NOTE: I have not included 1x OE CSL SMG Reservoir bracket, 41147896136 as I intend to CAD design my own to take advantage of the existing threaded stud on the strut tower
- 2x Bolts for MAP sensor, 07119902626 (Note that if you're using the *101 MAP sensor listed above you will need different bolts that are longer as the mounting points are different)
- 4x OE screws for CSL Airbox, 07119905016 (Note that the Karbonius box comes with black screws, I've ordered these as prefer the look of the original hardware)
- 4x OE screws for CSL snorkel, 07119901780 (Again just for the looks)
- Additional wiring, corrugated metal conduit, etc. for manufacturing custom harness to connect straight to MAF harness plug.

Hope this helps but please do note that a bunch of this is beyond what's "necessary" to get the airbox in and working and is tailored specifically to how I want to approach it :-)

[karter16]

If I'd known in advance how well this was going to work I'd have taken proper before and after photos, but first photo is about the best shot I've got of the bubbled dome.



And the end result!

[karter16]

Well that worked better than I could have hoped!

The enamel paints arrived in the week and my wife is out this evening, so while I was keeping an eye on the boys I decided to do some colour tests. That went well and I had a go at painting by hand. I'm absolutely not skilled enough for it, but then I tried masking with sellotape and that worked surprisingly well, I was expecting the paint to seep badly, but it was very minimal.

I very carefully masked for painting the light blue and the red and did those first. I found it was best to let the paint set for about 15-20 minutes before removing the masking (I didn't want to leave it too long and lift the paint with the tape).

I then allowed an hour for drying, and then masked for the dark blue and painted that, another 15-20 mins for the masking and then another hour to harden. I then very carefully cleaned up the edges with a sharp knife before applying the black paint.

For a hand-made effort I'm very happy with the end result. With the macro shot below you can see it's not perfect, but with the naked eye it looks perfect.

Great success!