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Karter16's Silbergrau E46 M3 Journal

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  • karter16
    replied
    It's been a wintery weekend here and as I'm waiting on parts from Schmiedmann (they're on their summer break now - boo) I've been limited to more theoretical planning for future projects. While my main parts order from Schmiedmann is waiting on a few bits to come in they did manage to ship out my order with the CSL secondary air rail and SMG expansion tank in it. RockAuto have also shipped the *101 Map Sensor which means that by next week I should be able to get underway with prototyping for 2 of my little CAD projects.

    CAD Project 1: SMG Expansion Tank bracket
    The CSL has a mounting bracket that you rivet to the shock tower. Given one of my key goals with my build is to be able to reverse out my changes in the future I don't really want to drill holes in my shock tower. I therefore plan to adopt the same approach as others which is to fabricate a bracket to attach to the threaded stud on the shock down (which is a bit inboard and further back than where the SMG reservoir sits). Others have made a simple bracket out of aluminium which they attach the CSL bracket to. I plan to go one step further and create a 3D-printable piece that is moulded to the shock tower and incorporates the little bracket for the reservoir into it (to save having to purchase the little bracket and keep things nicely fitting and more streamlined. This of course won't look completely original as it will be somewhat visible in the engine bay, but I'm happy to accept this compromise to save mutilating my shock tower. I intend to use the faceID scanner on my phone to capture a mesh of the shock tower with which to design against. I had a play last night with the faceID scanner and it is very impressively accurate - looking forward to challenging my CAD skills a bit more (I used to know how to do this 15 years ago, so hopefully I can figure it out again).

    CAD Project 2: Adapter for Bosch *101 MAP sensor
    As I mentioned above I plan to design an adapter for the Bosch *101 Map sensor to space it out from the air rail appropriately and add on the second mounting point. With the rail and sensor due in my hands next weekend I should be able to measure up and have everything I need to prove out this idea. Looking forward to seeing if this will work.


    The other think I've been doing is some deep dive research into the "tune" side of things for my future CSL airbox conversion. I studied engineering at university, majoring in embedded systems engineering, however haven't really dived into the engine management world at all previously. It's an interesting area though and something that would be fun to figure out. I mentioned this somewhere previously but I've always thought that it's a shame for the CSL airbox conversion that there isn't a standard tune that can be applied for those who are swapping in just the airbox. If you think about it fundamentally BMW had standard tunes for the M3 and the CSL (well, actually more variants, US vs Euro, etc. etc.) but they were standard tunes that they applied for each difference vehicle configuration. The same thing should be possible for those swapping out the airbox, a standard tune that suits the specific configuration of the car. This would then save the hassle of getting your car tuned (which as we know really only focuses on WOT mappings anyway, so isn't really getting to the root of the problem anyway.

    Well, anyway, since I had those thoughts Bry5on has made breakthrough strides in this area with his Mullet Tune, which combines the VANOS and ignition tables from the standard M3 tune and the CSL tune together to get the best of both worlds. When applied along with the fuel map tuning process described here the outcome is all of the high end boisterousness of the CSL map along with the round-town refinement of the standard tune. For what I want this is ideal. I don't need to eke out a few more HP at the top end, or push timing to the max. I want a reliable OE-like tune that handles the CSL airbox on an engine with standard M3 internals.

    I spent some time this weekend with TunerPro and the CSL tune and the actual tune from my car currently, getting a handle on the various tables involved and looking at some of the differences between the two tunes - it's really very interesting looking at the VANOS tables and seeing just how much adjustment is made in the mappings for different conditions. Fascinating stuff.

    One thing I haven't figured out yet is the WOT tuning side of things. I need to work out the best place/way to install a Wideband sensor. I really only need this during the tuning process, so just need to figure out for a Euro-spec car where to put it while I'm datalogging. My presumption is that the standard CSL map is probably conservative enough anyway that running too lean wouldn't be a major concern in my case anyway, but will need to validate this.

    Beyond those specifics I'm just working through the significant amounts of documentation on the process in general, and documenting my planned workflow/steps to prepare the tune.

    Good fun.



    Leave a comment:


  • Bry5on
    replied
    Hell yes. Thank you for sorting out the key code mapping!

    For what it’s worth, to be able to get the launcher app to recognize the previous/next selection, I had to kill CarPlay and the ibus app. Not sure which did it but I’m in business now.

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    I had a feeling that was going to be the answer lol

    BTW, for the map sensor, you can easily trim off 1.5mm off the nose of the sensor to fit it to the CSL air rail.
    Thanks yeah that's my backup option. Ideally I can design a 3D printed piece that means I add on the second wing and mounting hole. If I can make that work then I'll need the 1.5mm for structural support. Otherwise I can trim it off the nose as you say.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    I don't believe so realistically. Even within the same model number there's different firmware and app versions etc. I imagine it would end in sadness.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had a feeling that was going to be the answer lol

    BTW, for the map sensor, you can easily trim off 1.5mm off the nose of the sensor to fit it to the CSL air rail.

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post
    Would there be a way to clone the software with all the customization to another identical Xtrons unit?
    I don't believe so realistically. Even within the same model number there's different firmware and app versions etc. I imagine it would end in sadness.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Would there be a way to clone the software with all the customization to another identical Xtrons unit?

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    I had some time today to get a few bits and pieces done. You've probably seem me previously bemoaning my headliner and B/C pillar fabric letting go. I realise that this is standard for an E46, but I dealt with this previously on my 318i, so I'm just over it this time around.

    Anyway, today I took out the B/C pillar pieces that needed fixing and re-glued the fabric using Scotch 77 Adhesive. It was pretty easy to do, the key things are to only apply the adhesive to the trim, not to the fabric (make sure the fabric is completely shielded). And then wait a few minutes for the glue to tack up and then very gently apply the fabric, gently brushing (caressing even) it with your finger. Being 20 years old the trim wasn't in perfect condition anyway, so it still has a few minor marks/scrapes from age, but will tide me over until I take the headliner out and redo it.

    Secondly I finally figured out how to get the right-hand encoder knob on the Xtrons mapped to iDrive Launcher to navigate the menus. See the video below for what I mean:



    The video ends when I hit play in CarPlay,presumably my phone can't video and drive CarPlay at the same time. But what I was trying to show was that when ZLink (CarPlay) is open, the right knob can still be used to play/pause and navigate forwards/backwards through your playlist.

    To get this working you need to configure the short and long press on the right encoder button as follows in Factory Settings -> Touch Settings -> Panel Key (You can ignore my mappings of other keys - they're from experimenting and are not important)

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9340.jpg Views:	0 Size:	96.9 KB ID:	270084


    And turn on Control Mappings and map "Scroll Up, Scroll Down, Navigate left and Enter key as follows in iDrive Launcher Settings -> Controls.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9343.jpg Views:	0 Size:	94.2 KB ID:	270085

    I'm very happy to get this going as Android stereos are renowned for the right encoder not being mappable. on the IX8246BHL the rotary encoder is mapped to KEYCODE_MEDIA_PREVIOUS and KEYCODE_MEDIA_NEXT and it is the fact that it is mapped to actual Android key codes that makes this possible. Please note that I have no idea whether this would work on any other Xtrons unit - you'd have to try it yourself.

    Limitations? I'm not too sure of what all the limitations are as I'll need to play around with it more first, but I'll update here as I find anything. Very happy to have this working properly now. I don't have any particular day to day burning need for it, but it was annoying me that I had it almost working but not quite.
    Last edited by karter16; 06-29-2024, 06:59 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    Awesome well let's keep in touch then, and hopefully between us we can come up with the optimal solution.

    So what I'm envisaging is something like this.

    The sensor itself has 1 mounting hole.

    Click image for larger version Name:	41AUbKmq6YL.jpg Views:	0 Size:	23.3 KB ID:	269564

    And supposedly the sensor needs to be stood off from the air rail by about 1.5mm. So what I'm thinking is making up a 3D printed piece that is made up of a 1.5mm thick surface across the mating face of the sensor, plus also the "missing mounting point" on the other side of the sensor. The idea would be that it could be bonded to the sensor and the end result would be a sensor that has two mounting wings and is the right size to mount to the rail.

    Here's a horrible mouse-drawing of what I mean:

    Click image for larger version Name:	41AUbKmq6YL-addition.jpg Views:	0 Size:	28.3 KB ID:	269565

    Ultimately though I need to get both the rail and sensor in hand to validate the fitment before going too far with this idea.
    If you do make that I would be interested in getting one for a replacement sensor for my OE CSL setup. Back up for the future if needed. Great work.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    Hey so just again with the caveat that I haven't done this yet, and what I'm doing is just based on my own research (I am not an expert).

    Yeah that's my understanding. The original CSL MAP sensor (13627833561) is ideal but is NLA. The BMW replacement (12528091765) is a bit of a hack job and an aesthetic disaster. As you note the discussion on CSL register identifies 0261230101 as a possible replacement and I've decided to go down that path. It should be noted that in that discussion Tom notes that the nose on the sensor is approx 1.5mm too long. The sensor also has 1x mounting hole rather than 2. Once I have the parts in hand I plan to check this, and if it is indeed the case that it needs to be stood off slightly, I intend to CAD design a spacer which the sensor can be glued to to hold it in the right position. If this works out then yes, I think it will be a better option than the BMW replacement item, but that depends on me being able to make it fit properly.
    Comes up as SAAB Knock Sensor LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Originally posted by karter16 View Post

    Here's my parts list. Few caveats:

    1: I haven't actually done the project, so don't know what I've got wrong/missed
    2: I'm going for close to CSL clone + minimal wiring change, so my parts list reflects that
    3: This is for a MAP sensor install


    - 1x Airbox (I'll be going with Karbonius's "full carbon" box)
    - 1x Snorkel (not yet decided, but probably Haimus Racing (Streamline)'s snorkel as I'm not a fan of the CF snorkels and the Haimus one best replicates the black ABS look of the original)
    - 1x OE CSL Air Filter, 13727838625
    - 1x OE CSL Secondary Air Rail, 13417833597 (Note that there are numerous adapter options to reuse your existing secondary air rail)
    - 1x Bosch MAP Sensor, Bosch P/N 0261230101
    - 1x Bosch 3 Pin connector, Bosch P/N 1928403966
    - 1x Turner IAT Relocation Harness, Turner P/N 014579TMS
    - 6x OE Throttle Body Boots, 11617830265 (Note that this is only necessary if you have a late style standard airbox otherwise you can reuse your existing boots)
    - 6x Hose Clamps, 11617830306
    - 6x Hose Clamps, 11617831745
    ​- 1x Intake Air Temp Sensor, 13621739510
    ​- 1x Socket housing, 12521427615 (spare if needed)
    - 1x Protection cap, 12521427615 (OE one to replace straight one on Turner harness)
    - 1x OE CSL Crankcase Oil Separator Hose, 11157833649
    - 1x OE CSL Air Shutoff Valve, 11617833647 (Note there are options to cut up and reuse your standard one)
    - 1x OE CSL Dipstick,11437834784 (Note alternatively you can just bend/rotate your existing dipstick tube and reuse your existing dipstick)
    - 1x OE CSL Dipstick guide tube, 11437833653 (As above, you can reuse your existing one by rotating/bending it, with the added advantage you can access dipstick without removing airbox)
    - 1x OE CSL SMG Reservoir, 21532282549 (Only for SMG cars)
    - NOTE: I have not included 1x OE CSL SMG Reservoir bracket, 41147896136 as I intend to CAD design my own to take advantage of the existing threaded stud on the strut tower
    - 2x Bolts for MAP sensor, 07119902626 (Note that if you're using the MAP sensor above it only has 1x mounting hole, so strictly only need 1 of these)
    - 4x OE screws for CSL Airbox, 07119905016 (Note that the Karbonius box comes with black screws, I've ordered these as prefer the look of the original hardware)
    - 4x OE screws for CSL snorkel, 07119901780 (Again just for the looks)
    ​- Additional wiring, corrugated metal conduit, etc. for manufacturing custom harness to connect straight to MAF harness plug.

    Hope this helps but please do note that a bunch of this is beyond what's "necessary" to get the airbox in and working and is tailored specifically to how I want to approach it :-)
    amazing. thank you for this!

    Leave a comment:


  • ugaexploder
    replied
    Definitely see where you're going with it and I'm on board, please let me know how I can help!

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
    Definitely understand as I think we're in a similar boat at the moment. It is a bit confusing to piece together everything on the interwebs but I think I have it right in my noggin now.

    Look forward to hear how your install goes as I would like to follow a similar approach.

    Do you think maybe some sort of clamp would work? I'd hate to do something odd like put a binder clip on there, but there has to be a more elegant solution for those who want to go with a CSL air rail.
    Awesome well let's keep in touch then, and hopefully between us we can come up with the optimal solution.

    So what I'm envisaging is something like this.

    The sensor itself has 1 mounting hole.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	41AUbKmq6YL.jpg Views:	0 Size:	23.3 KB ID:	269564

    And supposedly the sensor needs to be stood off from the air rail by about 1.5mm. So what I'm thinking is making up a 3D printed piece that is made up of a 1.5mm thick surface across the mating face of the sensor, plus also the "missing mounting point" on the other side of the sensor. The idea would be that it could be bonded to the sensor and the end result would be a sensor that has two mounting wings and is the right size to mount to the rail.

    Here's a horrible mouse-drawing of what I mean:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	41AUbKmq6YL-addition.jpg Views:	0 Size:	28.3 KB ID:	269565

    Ultimately though I need to get both the rail and sensor in hand to validate the fitment before going too far with this idea.
    Last edited by karter16; 06-26-2024, 03:19 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ugaexploder
    replied
    Definitely understand as I think we're in a similar boat at the moment. It is a bit confusing to piece together everything on the interwebs but I think I have it right in my noggin now.

    Look forward to hear how your install goes as I would like to follow a similar approach.

    Do you think maybe some sort of clamp would work? I'd hate to do something odd like put a binder clip on there, but there has to be a more elegant solution for those who want to go with a CSL air rail.

    Leave a comment:


  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
    I also sourced a CSL air rail in preparation for my intake installation as well, and curious on your thoughts regarding the MAP sensor.

    I understand the part number you have listed (0261230101) is the one recommended in the thread below.



    Do you believe this is a better solution than running the original MAP sensor (12528091765)?

    EDIT: I just had it wrong in my head. It seems like the threads all reference 12528091765 as the one that doesn't fit right on a CSL air rail. The old part number 13627833561 seems to be the one that is impossible to find that fits perfect. Curious but where did you happen to purchase the 0261230101? As it looks like that is the route I will have to take also.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...627833561~geb/
    Hey so just again with the caveat that I haven't done this yet, and what I'm doing is just based on my own research (I am not an expert).

    Yeah that's my understanding. The original CSL MAP sensor (13627833561) is ideal but is NLA. The BMW replacement (12528091765) is a bit of a hack job and an aesthetic disaster. As you note the discussion on CSL register identifies 0261230101 as a possible replacement and I've decided to go down that path. It should be noted that in that discussion Tom notes that the nose on the sensor is approx 1.5mm too long. The sensor also has 1x mounting hole rather than 2. Once I have the parts in hand I plan to check this, and if it is indeed the case that it needs to be stood off slightly, I intend to CAD design a spacer which the sensor can be glued to to hold it in the right position. If this works out then yes, I think it will be a better option than the BMW replacement item, but that depends on me being able to make it fit properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • ugaexploder
    replied
    I also sourced a CSL air rail in preparation for my intake installation as well, and curious on your thoughts regarding the MAP sensor.

    I understand the part number you have listed (0261230101) is the one recommended in the thread below.



    Do you believe this is a better solution than running the original MAP sensor (12528091765)?

    EDIT: I just had it wrong in my head. It seems like the threads all reference 12528091765 as the one that doesn't fit right on a CSL air rail. The old part number 13627833561 seems to be the one that is impossible to find that fits perfect. Curious but where did you happen to purchase the 0261230101? As it looks like that is the route I will have to take also.

    Last edited by ugaexploder; 06-26-2024, 10:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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