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Cockroach Individual M3 1/13 CSL rep Bumper sourced and mockup

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  • samthejam
    replied
    getting kinda burnt out tho

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    I had to buy a new passenger side lower inner fender liner. There were no used ones on Ebay. I have a left one from Jay, and that center rad ducting I will repair. It just needs that divider from the one that has already somehow got smashed up on my car. I really should get that new but I have this one for right now.

    Also getting non, washing headlight trim pieces. New hood trim for the windshield sprayers, and got a used front grill to cut up to make it fit the CSL rep bumper. Also ordered all the screws and clips. Bumper will basically just be a cover that fits over the kevlar thing. I will have it so it can be removed without jack and only turning the wheels for servicability.

    I will not be converting to 2001 alu support or fixing the washer bottle reservoir on this go around.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    CSL Bumper project has begun. Someone had one for $250, it didn't come with the carbon splitters or the grille. Which will be its own problem that I will work through.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
    Just need to fix the roof or replace with a carbon roof. I'll trade a carbon roof for your slicktop headliner...just saying...
    I need a slicktop headliner if I delete sunroof or go carbon roof

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Just need to fix the roof or replace with a carbon roof. I'll trade a carbon roof for your slicktop headliner...just saying...

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  • samthejam
    replied
    The roof will probably just get wipe on clearcoat. I want to try that stuff, another friend used that on a Suburban with good success.

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    We were up until 4am working on the hood last night. Just need to order a bumper and headlight bezels now and spray them. Very very very happy for a driveway paintjob. I have seen worse Maacos

    The car has had a rep non-m sedan(?) bumper since I have owned it so will be glad to see that go.


    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Lessons learned dont use a cheap spray gun for the clearcoat or at all. When wetsanding down any crimes on the clearcoat, never go down to 1000. Theres a lot of microscratches we spent forever trying to get out. We had a fancy sonax cutting compound that said it would go to 1000 it did for the most part. They probably won't ever come out but it's more than good enough for me.
    Last edited by samthejam; 01-09-2026, 07:56 AM.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Brand used Ebox fan. I had a code for this not showing a CEL but when I did scans on the DME was flagging a code a lot of times. The "bad" one didn't show the usual signs of a tired electric motor. Anyways, It wasn't that bad of a job, I'd though it would be worse. We'll see if the intermittent code goes away for $30.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    So one of my goals for 2026, was to try and working on how I present myself to the world. That meant trying to clean up the E46 M3. The top surfaces on the car are pretty fucked as you all know.

    Anyways with ignorance and borrowing some stuff, I went straight ahead into totaling one of the most important panels on the car. My friend has done a lot of DIY paint and wraps for his car, I decided to just go straight ahead into spraying it myself on Friday at 3pm. He had all the tools and knowledge, and IMO if you have that and someone willing to help you jump in. So we did.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    We took the gas cap to a local shop, gave them the paint code and they did a quick eyeball color match. It's just one buisness day for as near perfect as they can get it, but we aren't repairing a perfect paint car so I didnt wait.

    All this was done with a spray gun. I sanded it down with 400 until it was smooth. Then we did 3-1 primer. Then we wet sanded that down with 600 before doing the base coat.

    All these layers came out smooth with good coverage.

    The following day we waited to do the clearcoat and the cheap gun started acting up, I should be able to fix the clearcoat with wet sanding and polishing but a little disappointing as due to how long it took to get the clear down we got a lot of crap in the paint and splatter of clear from the damn gun. I am gonna wait a week for it to cure before doing that, they were confident it will clean up pretty well once we wet sand and polish.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Color has a lot of flake in it.

    Yes the top of the fenders, will be mismatched we are going to wetsand that, cut and buff as well and see how it comes out. Yes the whole car needs a repaint but I dont trust anyone, and I want to learn something. I can fuck it up myself for cheaper than paying a cheap paint shop.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr



    We also were able to bring some life back to the trunklid.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Just a quick update of what is still in progress. Since this car is 1/7, I'll never be able to find used panels with original paint in good shape. The fenders honestly need to be replaced and painted.

    I am also going to do a CSL bumper, not sure if Bimmerworld or ECS
    Last edited by samthejam; 01-05-2026, 08:35 AM.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Girodisc installed!

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    I cannot really bed this on the street, there is a trackday in about 2 weeks though.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    These were the rotors that came with the kit when I bought it. So we'll see how these new ones do and can gauge service life of the disc.

    Also washed the car before the year ended.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    To celebrate the new year did a valve adjustment. Scored a genuine BMW shim set for $200 off Ebay. It took me most of the day, but it wasn't too bad. Just a lot of double and triple checking. 6 valves were out of adjustment, mostly just being a touch too tight. Exception of cyl one, that was super tight.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr




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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Yeah, the 335x32 discs are mostly standard - Stoptech, Girodisc, and Brembo. I have a mix of Girodisc and Stoptech on my car.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Primary 02s replaced and finally, snipped the secondarys out of there so less wires. I had block off plugs that came with the headers, but they didn't have a crush washer. So I'd rather just use an old 02 sensor. I had to lower right side of subframe to get clearance to thread sensor in and out, that was fun.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Also on sourcing rotors for Stoptech ST40 355x32 BBK Owners, who happen to be reading here, maybe will move to another post.

    I have 355x32mm rotors so that will be all this pertains to.

    For Genuine stoptech rotors you have a couple of options.​​

    Race Hardware: (fully floating, makes noise and from what I read can beat up the aluminum hats that are NLA)
    31.737.1101.87 (left)
    31.737.1102.87 (right)​

    Street Hardware: (semi floating, what most people run these dont float these do allow for radial float but its not fully free axial float like the race)
    31.737.1101.99 (left)
    31.737.1102.99 (right)


    I almost went with the race until I read about the potential hat issues. I was able to find them for as cheap as $550 for both sides. Now the rotor disc, are the same the kits only have hardware differences. The rotors must be sold with hardware as they are only one time use, and one is technically a replacement for the trophy or street kit but the rotor itself is the same. So technically a race kit could be converted to a street kit if you had the hardware set.

    Here are the hardware part #s:
    Street: 89.000.0001
    Race: [89.000.0022]



    Now for non Stoptech Options, Girodisc is making replacements.

    355.32.52

    ECSTuning offeres them with a lifetime warranty



    What is fascinating, is these Girotechs say they fit a lot of other kits and the ECS ad actually shows the Brembo hardware as well. Which is the McLaren hardware.



    Bimmerworld says these are replacement disc for Stoptech or Brembo:


    So possibly could also use Brembo disc on the Stoptech kits.
    Last edited by samthejam; 12-29-2025, 06:39 AM.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Another GA Trip, I actually didn't take a single pic on the way there. Just cannonballed.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Arrived jayjaya29 in the evening. Started the next day with rescueing a local friends F8x. My spare SSR came in handy!

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    He donated high pressure steering hose (Rein) off his parts car, that was recently replaced for it was taken off the road.

    Also finally trimmed my Bimmerworld Elbow to fit correctly. So now my airbox is actually secured properly.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    The other fun thing is all my wheels are pretty bent. With the new pavement changes at MSR, I cut the corner pretty hard last time and bent something. My friend Faustino does offshore work and he was off, so he came up just to hang out. We loaded up the wheels in his M5 and took it to a tire shop to see which ones might work on the front.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Conclusion was only one was straight... but one wasn't that bent. So made do and moved it all around accordingly. I have each wheel paint marked in all my sites so they always go back to the same corner, just helps me keep track of my wheels. For my E28 I had about 13 wheels at one time, so it's handy to know which is which. I also bought thermals as the temps we would drive to in the track the next morning would be 18 degrees. A052s are good to 17, and I left my car in the garage to make sure they'd be happyish.


    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Took me quite a few sessions to get the pressures right. If I'm being honest I forgot what they were now, I believe 36 hot. Which was 25 on LF, 27 on right side and 26 on Left rear cold. Once I did that, I went from 1:40s to 1:38, in one session. The car felt nervous but it was cold and I was on a brand new tire setup I hadn't dealt with before. But eventually got it down to 37s. A little mad at myself I didn't get a 36.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Ambient was in the 30-40s but we had sun! As soon as the sun went away lap times plummeted again, it was an open day so I ran all day. Temps and the power of the car was wonderful. Min speed out of 7 was 48 mph, so the A052s decent grip. Car got all the way to 143 on the back straight, so great mph and mechanical grip. The 245s A052s really impressed me. There are some things I don't like but man were they fast!

    Here are the laps:




    vroom vroom
    dZISIPTRM-Y


    Exhaust is horrific on the street but man on track it sounds great!


    Drove until it got dark!
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Now the car is fuel starving sooner, so I'm finally pushing it hardish. Now it starves at a quarter. Goal is to do 1:35 on street tires, very aggressive ones. So hopefully next trip can get a 1:36, in 2026.

    Worked from home in Atlanta for a few days before returning to the doctor for complications from my recent surgery and see my sisters graduation via flight.

    During that time, Jay let me use his white E46 M3 when I was in town. Man these are nice stock! We have some cars locally with carbon airboxes, but so far Jay's has the best intake noise I've heard in person on these. Just has a sound generator mod thing. No business being that good but it works!

    IMG_5780 by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Upon returning, back to Atlanta. This time came with my wife, and picked the car from where I left it. Airport Park N ride.

    We did estate sale shopping and went to the art museum.

    Getting directions after street parking it.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    At this point M3 had 3000 miles on the oil and one event so changed it.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Also added chrome fender grills, very uppity.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    We then went to NOLA to spend 3 nights finally get some time to explore that place. We stay in a hotel right by the french quarter and just lock it up there.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    We saw all the museums we could, ate some alligator and drank a bit. Went to all the various galleries and antique stores. Also got to finally meet a E28 online friend he was rolling through on a trip.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    We cannonballed home for my birthday, on Christmas eve so I could install a new dogleg trans in my E28 that was dropped off while I was out of town.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


    On Christmas day, unloaded car and saw the spare fuel pump. It was very low on fuel, since we only did one fuel stop from New Orleans decided to change it. Took the original 9.04 pump for a 2020 date code pump.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Took it on a validation drive for a family Thanksgiving thing before shoving it into garage.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Car is at 140k and change miles now. Definitely some projects for 2026 I need to do.

    - Original clutch, rear main is weeping.
    - rear camber arms are original. Meets camber targets but would like to refresh that
    - diff leak is not getting better
    - RACP only has bottom side reinforcement for front mounts (look into vince cups)
    - axle boots are torn and some rotational play
    - diff probably needs refreshed
    - original center support bearing
    - install wideband or get a dyno tune just for monitoring health
    - replace primary 02 sensors (have, waiting on one tool)
    - front rotor now has a crack to the edge, so source rotors (ordered, but still havent shipped need to follow up)
    - get injectors serviced because
    - replace plugs, they have like 40k miles on them now
    -biggest on going cost is see what do about tires for 2026 season
    - csl bumper, see what I can do to make this roach more presentable

    However I really need to put some love into my E28, and it now has a transmission I don't have to double clutch perfectly which is great.

    So yea do the above work in 2026, and drive more. Blown away by cars pace, but I am still not as comfortable in any situation like I am in E28. It just is so expensive to run comparatively, that yea just am not getting the amount of laps I want to.
    Last edited by samthejam; 12-26-2025, 07:45 AM.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    That is like playing cat and mouse. More often the part that goes wrong is the part I didn't bring. But one tactic I used is to see what auto zone and o' reilly's has in stock near the track you are going to. So you can probably get things like spark plugs, O2 sensors, ignition coils (search for an LCI 330Ci - same coil pack) and some sensors like a MAF from a local auto parts store.

    Other things I do is I carry a voltage regulator rather than an alternator. A starter solenoid vs an entire starter. Wheel speed sensors are important to maintain ABS.

    And of course...extra wheel bolts or studs. I've helped at least 6 people by giving them my spares. Of course when I needed some spares...I left the f'ing things at home...lol

    Now that I trailer the car I just bring a box of crap with me and pray I have what I need when I need it. I'm 0 for 4 so far.



    ​Man, that is really on the edge. It is missing material so it is being filled in with weld. And it is a second repair on the same site - that area around the repair is likely significantly weaker. Not sure if you can harden the repair somehow?

    Yes the wheel can explode which would be bad. My bigger worry and I think more likely scenario is if the tire loses air and comes apart...a flapping tire carcass can cause a lot of body damage. Worse if you get unlucky and lose the tire at a bad spot on the track.

    Much better off replacing it.

    Good point on the regulator, that will save me space. As well as the studs. Can't remember if I have extras of those. I know I fucked up one of my dads weekends by losing his lugnut lol at TWS. After that always had an extra ziptied under the seat. But yes, yea it's a game of cat and mouse. I've done so many events in my e28 across country to barber and atlanta, and just the vintage car shows. I have never needed anything I've ever brought. I have a box of mission critical stuff that will leave you stranded, but I sleep better knowing I have them. Basically packing enough to make sure I can get home, or to the best of my ability. So fuel pump also goes in there. That type of stuff.


    As far as the wheel repair. So there's a lot of interesting stuff with the repair. But yea first place it cracked, they boogered it bad. Than it cracked there and around the poor weld they did. The fabricator thinks it cooled too fast. Also the outer lip for the wheel is extruded and rolled over. So it's hollow inside.

    He used rod for 6061(?), he also preheated it before welding. He said it dissipated heat quite quickly so was hard to keep heat in the area. But yea a brand new set of wheels will probably need to be purchased next year.

    A air loss failure at a high speed section suddenly, is my primary fear as well as any suspension failure leading to car going to a stationary object that keeps me up at night.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by samthejam View Post
    I was also planning on gutting the S54 I have sitting in garage to put together a survival kit. Alternator, crank sensor, tps, actuator etc for these trips.
    That is like playing cat and mouse. More often the part that goes wrong is the part I didn't bring. But one tactic I used is to see what auto zone and o' reilly's has in stock near the track you are going to. So you can probably get things like spark plugs, O2 sensors, ignition coils (search for an LCI 330Ci - same coil pack) and some sensors like a MAF from a local auto parts store.

    Other things I do is I carry a voltage regulator rather than an alternator. A starter solenoid vs an entire starter. Wheel speed sensors are important to maintain ABS.

    And of course...extra wheel bolts or studs. I've helped at least 6 people by giving them my spares. Of course when I needed some spares...I left the f'ing things at home...lol

    Now that I trailer the car I just bring a box of crap with me and pray I have what I need when I need it. I'm 0 for 4 so far.

    Originally posted by samthejam View Post
    I was getting my wheels ready for the new tires to be mounted. Noticed one was flat.

    ​Man, that is really on the edge. It is missing material so it is being filled in with weld. And it is a second repair on the same site - that area around the repair is likely significantly weaker. Not sure if you can harden the repair somehow?

    Yes the wheel can explode which would be bad. My bigger worry and I think more likely scenario is if the tire loses air and comes apart...a flapping tire carcass can cause a lot of body damage. Worse if you get unlucky and lose the tire at a bad spot on the track.

    Much better off replacing it.
    Last edited by bigjae46; 12-10-2025, 08:49 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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