Cockroach Individual M3 4/1 Drivers Window Replacement

[discoelk]

That window breaking sucks! Not sure if applies to E46es but I'd clean the door/window seals as best you can to avoid tiny scratches in the new window from broken glass. BTDT on an old Japanese car with felt window seals.

[samthejam]

I've had the pleasure of cleaning up a broken window in the past (not on the M3, but still) and I feel your pain. Gave up after a few hours of vacuuming, took the door off and had a buddy help me shake all the bits of glass out of it. Might be worth doing if the rattling glass starts driving you crazy.

Yeah I was shaking the door pretty aggressively, gonna let the stiff springs and MCS shocks hopefully get the rest out.

The rattle was prior to all this, but never really investigated that. I won't know if it's gone until I drive it. Waiting on those clips rn but need to drive the E28 anyway so just leaving the M3 in a buddys shop rn

[heinzboehmer]

I will never get all the glass out of that door. Pain. A local buddy delivered me a piece of untinted coupe glass.

I've had the pleasure of cleaning up a broken window in the past (not on the M3, but still) and I feel your pain. Gave up after a few hours of vacuuming, took the door off and had a buddy help me shake all the bits of glass out of it. Might be worth doing if the rattling glass starts driving you crazy.

[samthejam]

Specifications

View Specs for All Sizes

• Size:P275/35ZR18
• Load Range:LL Load Range
• Eco Focus:N/A
• UTQG:40 C A UTQG
• Max. Load:1,201 lbs
• Max. Inflation Pressure:44 psi
• Tread Depth:3.7/32"
• Tire Weight:26 lbs
• Rim Width Range:9-11"
• Meas. Rim Width:9.5"
• Sect. Width:10.9"
• Tread Width:9.9"
• Overall Diam.:25.6"
• Revs. Per Mile:813
• Country of Origin*:JPJP

Notes


Toyo RR notes before tire rack does the delete on this info

[samthejam]

Oh and now I'm waiting on $50 in clips for doorcard and the door trim thing. Usually very good with clips and not breaking many, but man this time all just shattered. Very fun.

[samthejam]

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr\
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I will never get all the glass out of that door. Pain. A local buddy delivered me a piece of untinted coupe glass.

Vacuumed for probably 45 minutes. Another 30 minutes just removing the glass from the front rubber insulating piece. Just a pick, I had to use my phone camera and flashlight to see what I was doing. But anyways after that went to put glass in, realized both sides of the top window rubber seal had to be removed.

I think the adjusting procedure is an absolute fiddlers fuck. I think it's okay now. Goes up evenly, seems to decent tension, goes under the seal everytime. Door doesn't take too much force to close.

There is the slightest airgap at the bottom where the glass meets the B pillar, and the glass comes out of the door with it all the way up. I give up. It also doesn't park at the very bottom like it used too. Glass protrudes ever so slightly from the door when all the way down but I give up for now.

As why the glass broke? There isn't a smoking gun. The window did rattle, checked the regulator nuts that are common to cause a rattle. Non were more than a 1/4 turn loose at most. Idk, whatever think it's at a point where I can leave it alone for now. Very glad I removed a spare window reg from the yard, and broke the glass to get it out there as everything was assembled so I knew how it went back together. It all fell into the door

[samthejam]

Nice! That's quick!

The Goodyear 3Rs are about 1 second faster than Falken RT660s and R7s are about a second faster than 3Rs. At least for me, probably 3 seconds in R7s considering I left some time on the table learning.

Good to hear! I had similiar findings with R7s on my E28. Before it started cracking all unibody and strut housings in half 2-3 seconds


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[bigjae46]

Nice! That's quick!

The Goodyear 3Rs are about 1 second faster than Falken RT660s and R7s are about a second faster than 3Rs. At least for me, probably 3 seconds in R7s considering I left some time on the table learning.

[samthejam]

I want to leave car as it is, start playing with rake and tire pressures before gripping it up more. I know a 43 is possible, but is a 42 possible? On Rs4s?

Long term goal, break into into the 40.xx with 245 Hoosiers.

No aero, 330whp, 245 Hoosier R7s.I believe 3300lbs. I'm sure MSRH has degraded lot since then. This is a 1:40.805. But the 11 year old youtube video gives me something to chase

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13kuo5f6uPg

[samthejam]

Close call avoiding spin:
Timestamped Link:

https://youtu.be/KL12k8puD44?t=88

1:44.70

1:44.53

1:44.66 Same pace but with much more understeer on the LF, tires degraded overall

[samthejam]

I cleaned the car for the track event.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

For the ducting, all I did was duct tape the wheel well opening for the brake duct shut. So that still isn't ideal but all I really had time for, so just did that. So it is getting air ducted from the csl inlet, into that factory airbox feed duct. That basically shoots it into the evolve opening, it just isn't insulated at all.


I had new RS4s on the car, really was just excited to test the alignment changes. As well as test the new airbox and tune. Prior to this my PBs in both directions have been 46s, with the goal being to get the car into the 45s on a super 200 tire. I had no expectations of setting any PBs.

On the first session on lap 3 dipped right into the 44. The first hot lap.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Did it again until the ambient went up.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

The Epic tune has made the car so consistent. The mph is the same, for a session. It did decrease throughout the day as temps increased from 50s to 85. However, it was the same for the whole session relative to pace. It is also just way punchier, most notably the 3-4th shift. Just seems to have a lot of torque there at that rpm. The alignment greatly improved turn in and power down while complimenting the cars current balance. I think that was one of the biggest changes to it.


The knockback was pretty bad, and my LF tire was getting noticeably worse. So I jacked it up and found the RF wheel bearing was bad. So later that night did some asking around and found some takeoff Core4 front wheel hubs with not too many races on them. They're just regular skf/fag wheel bearings with msi press in studs.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I ran out of time to check the alignment after that it was midnight. I did find the issue with the LF though, I had been running this RS4s at 37 psi hot. It was overinflated and just destroying that center rib in diamonds edge under that combined loading. I am now targeting a much lower number and it seems to work better but the damage to the tire was done.

The morning session was frustrating with traffic, and I really wanted to do a 43. Unfortunately I was staring at the laptimer. I gave up, and just started chasing some really good drivers in the instructor run group and
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I had to avoid a spin and tested the bumper mounting.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Only problem with car Sunday was my drivers windows glass broke. I gave my student a ride along, when I went to get out of car and check tire pressures. Window shattered in the door. idk why yet.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

So drove home with no window. Made phone calls difficult with the bimmerworld exhaust lol. Drive with the elbows


Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[discoelk]

+15deg above ambient seems pretty reasonable for IATs. It should be pretty easy to duct some fresh air with the CSL bumper to keep you in that range.

[Bry5on]

You should expect to see an IAT rise in approximately that range. Also, if you remove the headlight, expect your engine cooling performance to be worse. You’re adding pressure behind the radiator which is likely to hurt your cooling.

Leave your tune setup for those 110F IATs, you’ll be better off for it. The DME pulling timing will mean that you’ll suffer power loss everywhere in the RPM band far after the knock event is over. I think this is a common misconception of folks chasing numbers on the dyno, only to suffer in real life situations.

[samthejam]

https://youtu.be/Y3w5PydIRjs?t=210 Probably will need to imitate this

[samthejam]

Did an epoxy repair that probably won't last but got it enough to get it dyno'd today.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

IATs were a struggle, highest numbers were with headlight removed and aimed right at intake. So I am going to prioritize making sure that phallic object gets some good air so need to think about ducting. 85 degree day and the datalogs showed 100F for IAT.

Randy also noted that he thinks my headers are the restriction right now, I think there was some confusion on the street/track vs the full race exhaust but all good. It's making plenty of power for now, I do want to redo my exhaust setup at some point

So far with the Alpha N driveability is fine. Can lug it around at low rpms no issues, only odd case is like 2nd gear rolling through a stop sign at like 1500 or through my work parking garage but that's it. For 98% of driving I would not now that it doesn't have a MAF and the stock airbox.

Exhaust is so loud I will never hear the intake noise

If I can't be creative with the ducting before this weekend I'll just take the headlight out at the track lol.