Cockroach Individual M3 4/19 Oil Analysis

[samthejam]

"Ill send u all the data in a bit but basically had no tangible wear metals present comparing virgin to used. Really clean stuff, roughly the same amt of wear I see with my 530 over 5k miles. It did shear 20% but bc its 10w60 theres still plenty of room, and the visc was still heavier than a new 40 or even 50 weight oil. Could you get something more shear resistant like redline or motul? Yes, but with how frequently you change it I dont think it’s going to matter."

VOA Result:



UOA Result:


This oil had one dyno day, one full weekend. Since this was the first weekend with thermal control of the coolant. I did back to back sessions see how hot I could get oil. First time to 3rd dot, after heat soaked for sometime in paddock before going back out on track. Maybe 1000 street miles.

I am not sure of the OE bearing new construction. I believe they are Alu and Tin but need to do more research. From my friend and ChatGPT nothing seems concerning, so I'll keep to my current schedule. Do more test and hopefully can begin a trend.

[Bry5on]

The other one I can think of that might have a non-negligible effect is that the AlphaN table on the standard M3 software is smaller (18x12) than that CSL AlphaN table (20x24). In particular the y-axis has twice as many interpolation points. AlphaN on the CSL software will get you a better end result I'd have thought.

Plus EGT enrichment compensation for low temp/load

[karter16]

FYSA there are other differences in the CSL software than just the MAP sensor that help with drivability, but the MAP is the main one.

The other one I can think of that might have a non-negligible effect is that the AlphaN table on the standard M3 software is smaller (18x12) than that CSL AlphaN table (20x24). In particular the y-axis has twice as many interpolation points. AlphaN on the CSL software will get you a better end result I'd have thought.

[Bry5on]

It's on a euro 1501 software as a base file with Epic's Alpha-N software changes ontop. IAT is in a similar placement to stock, so should be fine? So should be following Euro M3 logic, and sensor is sort've in same place as the factory MAF, but thats a great point and something to consider if I switch airboxes or go to a MAP sensor setup at some point on underlying DME logic for that

Ah yeah, can't say for sure either way then but I expect you're right and you're fine with your current 1501 Alpha-N. And also yes on if you switch to a CSL based and/or MAP setup. FYSA there are other differences in the CSL software than just the MAP sensor that help with drivability, but the MAP is the main one.

[samthejam]

It might not matter in your case, but the CSL DME programming is expecting the IAT sensor to be in the factory position behind the radiator.

Since your sensor is upstream, it could in some cases be predicting too low of an IAT causing knock and timing pulling when not at high speeds. It appears that putting it upstream into colder air perhaps counterintuitively puts you at higher risk of knock, thanks to the decompilation with from karter16.

It's on a euro 1501 software as a base file with Epic's Alpha-N software changes ontop. IAT is in a similar placement to stock, so should be fine? So should be following Euro M3 logic, and sensor is sort've in same place as the factory MAF, but thats a great point and something to consider if I switch airboxes or go to a MAP sensor setup at some point on underlying DME logic for that

[samthejam]

Looks organized to me! I would store it in climate control...Houston humidity is a killer!

Great data on the IATs. On track I think I'm usually 10-15 degrees hotter than ambient which I'd guess is closer to the track surface temps?

That's it in my office haha. So we got climate control

[Bry5on]

It might not matter in your case, but the CSL DME programming is expecting the IAT sensor to be in the factory position behind the radiator.

Since your sensor is upstream, it could in some cases be predicting too low of an IAT causing knock and timing pulling when not at high speeds. It appears that putting it upstream into colder air perhaps counterintuitively puts you at higher risk of knock, thanks to the decompilation with from karter16.

[bigjae46]

Also been trying to organize all the spare parts, for the M3. I'm sure too some people this is a mess but for me this is a huge win. All the critical spares, I'd grab for a roadtrip or to get car alive again are on one shelf.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Looks organized to me! I would store it in climate control...Houston humidity is a killer!

Great data on the IATs. On track I think I'm usually 10-15 degrees hotter than ambient which I'd guess is closer to the track surface temps?

[samthejam]

I have a friend who works at a refinery, and he said he can test my oil for me. So I got a UOA and a VOA for him to test, never done anything like that. I'm too much of a scatterbrain to usually do the Blackstone thing. This is the oil after the one dyno day and track weekend so curious as to how it will look as far as viscosity. Since the OE bearings don't have copper and lead idk how you can do analysis for wear.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Also been trying to organize all the spare parts, for the M3. I'm sure too some people this is a mess but for me this is a huge win. All the critical spares, I'd grab for a roadtrip or to get car alive again are on one shelf.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I also unfortunately went a little too crazy with the gold tape, but "racecar".

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I did try and validate IATs as well. When it is parked, disaster. It easily gets 50 degrees hotter than ambient. Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


When moving though, it is a better story. It is within 4-5 degrees from Ambient. It cools down relatively quickly. I'll double check next time I'm on track what it is doing but I am very happy with this. Just the CSL bumper feeding the factory USDM duct shooting air into the evolve elbow thing, with the wheel well blocked off with tape.

Ambient I am using the factory outdoor temp sensor.

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I installed my old tune I made in my E28, and I am back to enjoying driving that thing around more. So far the M3 has just been sitting in the garage until I know I am going on at least a 45 minute drive and then I pull it out. I want to redo the exhaust I think. It is pretty loud, I'd just been driving it so much I got used to it.
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

Some pics a friend got
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

[discoelk]

That window breaking sucks! Not sure if applies to E46es but I'd clean the door/window seals as best you can to avoid tiny scratches in the new window from broken glass. BTDT on an old Japanese car with felt window seals.

[samthejam]

I've had the pleasure of cleaning up a broken window in the past (not on the M3, but still) and I feel your pain. Gave up after a few hours of vacuuming, took the door off and had a buddy help me shake all the bits of glass out of it. Might be worth doing if the rattling glass starts driving you crazy.

Yeah I was shaking the door pretty aggressively, gonna let the stiff springs and MCS shocks hopefully get the rest out.

The rattle was prior to all this, but never really investigated that. I won't know if it's gone until I drive it. Waiting on those clips rn but need to drive the E28 anyway so just leaving the M3 in a buddys shop rn

[heinzboehmer]

I will never get all the glass out of that door. Pain. A local buddy delivered me a piece of untinted coupe glass.

I've had the pleasure of cleaning up a broken window in the past (not on the M3, but still) and I feel your pain. Gave up after a few hours of vacuuming, took the door off and had a buddy help me shake all the bits of glass out of it. Might be worth doing if the rattling glass starts driving you crazy.

[samthejam]

Specifications

View Specs for All Sizes

• Size:P275/35ZR18
• Load Range:LL Load Range
• Eco Focus:N/A
• UTQG:40 C A UTQG
• Max. Load:1,201 lbs
• Max. Inflation Pressure:44 psi
• Tread Depth:3.7/32"
• Tire Weight:26 lbs
• Rim Width Range:9-11"
• Meas. Rim Width:9.5"
• Sect. Width:10.9"
• Tread Width:9.9"
• Overall Diam.:25.6"
• Revs. Per Mile:813
• Country of Origin*:JPJP

Notes


Toyo RR notes before tire rack does the delete on this info

[samthejam]

Oh and now I'm waiting on $50 in clips for doorcard and the door trim thing. Usually very good with clips and not breaking many, but man this time all just shattered. Very fun.

[samthejam]

Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr\
Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

I will never get all the glass out of that door. Pain. A local buddy delivered me a piece of untinted coupe glass.

Vacuumed for probably 45 minutes. Another 30 minutes just removing the glass from the front rubber insulating piece. Just a pick, I had to use my phone camera and flashlight to see what I was doing. But anyways after that went to put glass in, realized both sides of the top window rubber seal had to be removed.

I think the adjusting procedure is an absolute fiddlers fuck. I think it's okay now. Goes up evenly, seems to decent tension, goes under the seal everytime. Door doesn't take too much force to close.

There is the slightest airgap at the bottom where the glass meets the B pillar, and the glass comes out of the door with it all the way up. I give up. It also doesn't park at the very bottom like it used too. Glass protrudes ever so slightly from the door when all the way down but I give up for now.

As why the glass broke? There isn't a smoking gun. The window did rattle, checked the regulator nuts that are common to cause a rattle. Non were more than a 1/4 turn loose at most. Idk, whatever think it's at a point where I can leave it alone for now. Very glad I removed a spare window reg from the yard, and broke the glass to get it out there as everything was assembled so I knew how it went back together. It all fell into the door