1997 m3 sedan with s54 swap

[heinzboehmer]

Looking at the data sheet for that one: what am I really looking for as a standard to use? It's by definition soft so that's not an issue. Is there a standard out there for measuring plastic deformation creep?

I don't actually know the answer to that. Maybe you could go off the melting temperature (and add some margin)?

[3staxontheradio]

Looking at the data sheet for that one: what am I really looking for as a standard to use? It's by definition soft so that's not an issue. Is there a standard out there for measuring plastic deformation creep?

[3staxontheradio]

My main hesitation with TPU is that the thermal performance isn't great. I haven't looked into them that hard though so maybe I am just ignorant on them.

[heinzboehmer]

One challenge I need to solve: The engine will move and there isn't a ton of ability for all of this to flex. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get some flexibility into the design without having to resort to anything that flows really badly like a corrugated hose. Open to a few ideas including wrapping and forming a custom shaped silicone hose/coupler, making longer slip fit joints between each piece, and keeping the middle section printed or made out of something with more ability to deform (polypropylene is a bitch to print but would work).

The newer, "high flow" TPU filaments are fairly easy to print. I've tried a couple softish ones (~90A) and they were all easy to work with. I've also printed things out of this stuff, which was significantly more of a pain: https://recreus.com/en-en/products/filaflex-60a

Required messing with the extruder tension and feeding the filament directly into the extruder (even with a PTFE tube, the friction was too high). But, once set up, it does print out fairly well and is extremely flexible. Not sure you need that much flex for this piece, but it's an option.

[3staxontheradio]

Intake prototype parts for section 1 and section 2. This feeds my AFE intake nicely. The plan is to have section 3 be CSL box specific. The print failed near the top but still usable to test fitting. It was never going to be an end use part since its just printed in petg-gf

One challenge I need to solve: The engine will move and there isn't a ton of ability for all of this to flex. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get some flexibility into the design without having to resort to anything that flows really badly like a corrugated hose. Open to a few ideas including wrapping and forming a custom shaped silicone hose/coupler, making longer slip fit joints between each piece, and keeping the middle section printed or made out of something with more ability to deform (polypropylene is a bitch to print but would work).

[3staxontheradio]

JBanzhaf Grabbed me this screenshot from ISTA. Hopefully the next person googling for this can find it. Pretension to 170nm, back off, torque to 120nm

[3staxontheradio]

Lots going on this winter keeping me from the car but also I almost have it back on the road. I discoverd the transmission I bought wasn't from an e46 330i like the seller had thought so I ended up with a gs6-37bz TJEP. Didn't realize my mistake until I was installing it and the bellhousing bolts didn't line up + no starter dowel. I just got another gs6 this time a THEG from an e60 and have it mostly cleaned up. It was very leaky and dirty in the back so I am doing all the seals. For the output shaft seal I have been looking and asking everywhere for seal + flange install steps. My bentley manual doesn't cover it and the ZF320 had a multi step torque process. If anyone with ISTA or firsthand knowledge of the correct torque and install process (sealant where?) could chime in it would be appreciated. Also check out my modified HF jack that lets me bolt the transmission on level and roll it under the car on my quickjacks without it hitting anything. It's made transmission removal and install way easier.

[3staxontheradio]

Some updates. Been doing a few things on this in the background while busy with work. First off some 3d scans of the underside for planning a future 3.5" single exit exhaust:




I pulled the ZF from my E46 and got it cleaned up:


Made a DSSR from the garagistic kit. This is my first time doing anything with tig:




And here is the pile of parts I have gone with. New rogue shifter, reboot engineering conversion bracket and shift carrier. Clutchmasters kit with steel flywheel, and then some fresh rubber, gaskets, and bolts.

[3staxontheradio]

Looking for some transmission help. My car has a getrag 420g out of a euro e36 m3 in it. A few days ago I was driving and something failed leading to the centering behavior at the shifter being off and also causing it to leak gear oil from somewhere relatively far forwarded- what appears to be above the clutch slave of the drivers side. I'll be pulling the trans soon to get a better look. The shifter wants to pull all the way to the left into the reverse spot without any resistance, first and second gear are extremely hard to find, and then there is a click where the shifter will sit in a position to the right of neutral. Before I started smelling the gear oil I had assumed I just had a detent failure but as best as I can tell its leaking further forward and on the opposite side of the transmission. Anyone have a guess what has happened?


Video of shifter turret behavior now:

Pic of the leak near the clutch slave:

[3staxontheradio]

I have been doing a ton of stuff with the car in preparation of a dyno day on Monday. Coils, plugs, fuel filter, injectors, a new crank position sensor. Also I killed my starter and starter replacement on these is a pain in the ass.

I bought this set of injectors from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283565363269

and then shipped them to https://www.injectorpulse.com/ to get them checked out/cleaned. Glad I did. These were counterfeits, absolute garbage, and could have killed my engine. Counterfeit confirmed when the sticker covering the part number was removed to find no part number. Do not buy these.

[3staxontheradio]

For anyone curious about affordable crimp tools I have been through 3 now and found something that works well.

I did not get good results with my tool aid 18920 using die 189922. This mangles the strain relief connection and also doesn't provide a reliable crimp

Tool aid 18600 has no way to cleanly crimp the strain relief.

This crimper from milspecwiring works really well. Looking at this photo close up I need to use less hand pressure when criming the strain relief:

https://www.milspecwiring.com/16-30-AWG-OPEN-BARREL-CRIMP-TOOL_p_405.html?lt_c=1&quickcart=1&qc_action=quickcart

[3staxontheradio]

I got my oil analysis back from blackstone. Only thing out of spec is high copper. This is the first change since the previous owner did WPC oem rod bearings. Any thoughts on sources for copper in the oil? I do not think its bearings or bearing wear in since copper is the only metal found. I would expect metals from the outer layers to appear first? Either way not particularly concerned but will keep doing samples and watch the trend.

[3staxontheradio]

I started wiring my new canbus cluster from JBanzhaf and since I have the plenum off I pulled the crankshaft sensor and replaced it. It had a slightly alarming amount of ferrous metal sticking to it. I know these aren't a frequent service item on S54s but has anyone pulled one before and did it look like this? Also does the sensor look a little extra bent?

[3staxontheradio]

That's awesome. I don't think we actually need the double inlet and the tightest part of the path is passing behind the headlights (at least with euro headlights).

I'm on vacation for the next week, have a growing list of actual stuff to deal with on the car, but then I want to get a design into solidworks and start cfd on it.

[heinzboehmer]

This post reminded me of this thread: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...103#post274103

Seems like fitting a giant snorkel is doable in the E36 chassis.