Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe

[Obioban]

How would you rate the DIY toughness of the rivet style Vinebar? I’ve been considering it, although it make make sense just to weld it in if I am doing plates at the same time so I don’t need to drop the subframe twice.

It's not actually hard to do... just stressful (and a bit time consuming). If you can handle vanos lockdowns, you can handle this.

It might seem more time consuming to me than it actually is, as I've been doing it one baby nap at a time, for the duration of said baby nap.

[Inizes]

How would you rate the DIY toughness of the rivet style Vinebar? I’ve been considering it, although it make make sense just to weld it in if I am doing plates at the same time so I don’t need to drop the subframe twice.

[oceansize]

I popped the bimmerworld RTABs open because they started making noise after ~5000 miles. My hope is that they learned their lessons and are doing what they claim these days :P

Ahhhh, I had forgotten it was bimmerworld and not GC.

[Obioban]

I am curious as to why you used an electric dremel type tool rather than a pneumatic die grinder. More precise? Less mess?

Thanks.

Jesse

I really didn’t want to cut too much.

[D-O]

So far so good with the Proxxon on. I had 3 dremels fail during this project. The Proxxon has already put in more time then all of them combined, and no magic smoke.

It does seem to have an overheat sensor, and shut down if it triggers. Which is a good idea!

I got this one: http://www.proxtools.com/store/pc/vi...&idcategory=26

I think I don't have enough understanding of how diffs work (why BMW put that slop in there to begin with) to decide if something like that bevel washer is a good idea, so I went without. The safe route :P

I am curious as to why you used an electric dremel type tool rather than a pneumatic die grinder. More precise? Less mess?

Thanks.

Jesse

[Obioban]

I've had the GC monoball ARCAs for around 1500 miles with no issues. I did ask what they used and they said strictly delphi/lemforder for 5/7 series (I know you cracked open a different part of theirs back in the day and it wasn't). What is the indicator there is a problem? Noise/squeaking, or just how long they last?

I popped the bimmerworld RTABs open because they started making noise after ~5000 miles. My hope is that they learned their lessons and are doing what they claim these days :P

[oceansize]

This is not a recommendation, as I'll probably have a bad experience (based on previous experiences with the company, but Bimmerworld.

I've had the GC monoball ARCAs for around 1500 miles with no issues. I did ask what they used and they said strictly delphi/lemforder for 5/7 series (I know you cracked open a different part of theirs back in the day and it wasn't). What is the indicator there is a problem? Noise/squeaking, or just how long they last?

[Obioban]

Which monoball ARCAs did you go with?

This is not a recommendation, as I'll probably have a bad experience (based on previous experiences with the company, but Bimmerworld.

[SteelGreyM]

Wow dude. I can’t even imagine doing this type of work myself. Looks great 👍👍

[r4dr]

Which monoball ARCAs did you go with?

[Obioban]

Looks good! did you drop the subframe to replace the front bolts? I remember the oe ones have that hex head that sits between the chassis and bushings.

Yep! See post 222 on.

[BlAikenstein]

Looks good! did you drop the subframe to replace the front bolts? I remember the oe ones have that hex head that sits between the chassis and bushings.

[Obioban]

Well, the scary part is done. Just seam sealer, paint, and reassembly to go. Well, and the Slonik plate.





^the missing rivet in the first picture was added right after I took the photo.

I've really discovered how much chassis coat they used everywhere in my car after replacing the rear floor, at ~100,000 miles. The stuff's everywhere

[Radekxpl]

Scary part of the Vincebar install complete. All glue, rivets, and paint from here.

Great job 👍 did mine Vincebar 6 years ago with this glue, rivet method as well, holding up very well up this day no issues after all track day abuse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Obioban]

Ian, Which Proxxon tool did you get - do you like it compared to the dremels? I've 2 dremels both with issues/old in the tooth, and would like to get a cordless but also want a little more torque than dremels produce.
.. separate topic, did you look at or consider the racingdiffs beveled washers to take slop out of the OE LSD unit? I know it wouldn't be as good, just curious what you think of it? I have a 2nd diff I bought locally, dirt cheap from a guy shedding E46 parts, trying to decide what I want to have done to it.

ADS

So far so good with the Proxxon on. I had 3 dremels fail during this project. The Proxxon has already put in more time then all of them combined, and no magic smoke.

It does seem to have an overheat sensor, and shut down if it triggers. Which is a good idea!

I got this one: http://www.proxtools.com/store/pc/vi...&idcategory=26

I think I don't have enough understanding of how diffs work (why BMW put that slop in there to begin with) to decide if something like that bevel washer is a good idea, so I went without. The safe route :P