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Obioban's 2005 IR/IR Coupe
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The only frustrating part is aligning the pin for the carrier arm. A while back, someone suggested using a bolt that had a slightly smaller diameter than the pin to get the hole on the transmission and carrier aligned.Originally posted by HighSchoolDream View PostThat page is part of the reason I keep putting it off lol. Since he says how frustrating the install can be. All the old threads from the other forum are gone so was hoping to find some tips or tricks from someone who has done it here. Have some YouTube videos saved but it’s not with the same shifter
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That page is part of the reason I keep putting it off lol. Since he says how frustrating the install can be. All the old threads from the other forum are gone so was hoping to find some tips or tricks from someone who has done it here. Have some YouTube videos saved but it’s not with the same shifter
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Quick google search leads to this: http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_as_ssk.shtmlOriginally posted by HighSchoolDream View PostJust read through looking for auto solutions shift kit install. Is it not in here or did I completely miss it? Mines been sitting in my trunk for way too long
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Just read through looking for auto solutions shift kit install. Is it not in here or did I completely miss it? Mines been sitting in my trunk for way too long
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Are these the spring rates you're still running to this day? I end up with something similar up front when I play around with the flat ride spreadsheet, though on the softer side of 250-275F, 600R. I'm targeting 50-60 mph which spits out a 17-20% flat ride ratio. My concern is that the fronts are too soft, so I'm curious how you feel about running 325-350 up front. Stiff enough? Too soft?Originally posted by Obioban View PostChaning things up for this winter. 25 lbs stiffer on each front spring, stiffer front sway, will have a rear sway again.
Setup:
350 front left
325 front right
700 rear left
628 rear right
Ground Control 7 gauge race front sway
CSL rear sway with some adjustable end links I made myself
Puts me at 1.89hz front, 2.07hz rear, so 1.1 bounce ratio (10% flat ride).
I see a lot of people running 400/500 or something in that range and it just seems weird to me that 250-275 up front would be a noticeable upgrade from stock. Even though the numbers don't lie.
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i am so looking forward to seeing that post with the strobing LED changes. very very slick.Originally posted by Obioban View PostI saw that it was now possible to run the OE performance steering wheel in the e46 a couple of weeks ago, as seen here: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=611535
The thing that held me back was that the while OLED display in the center really doesn't jibe with the e46 gauges/instruments. The gauges in the center are also a lot less useful for us, as our clusters already have useful gauges . At the end of the day, all I really wanted was the shift lights.
... which led to an offline conversation with Terraphantm about them, or, specifically getting the OE cluster shift lights to strobe at redline (allowing them to be more noticeable in peripheral vision-- which I don't find the default shift lights to be). Which, happily, he was able to do by writing a little program in the program space. He's still dialing in the pulse speed of the lights, and going to be making a thread with the details on how to do it, but in the short term, upgraded shift lights in the cluster:
Now that I'm running this in both M3's, I no longer have any desire for the shift lights on the steering wheel.
What about the thread for the OE performance wheel? any way to recover that thread info? it doesnt look like it was archived/cached
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The first one you are referring to is made by Obi's absolute, favoritest of favorites... VAC lol. The current one is OEM manufacturer Die Wejthe made for Digi-tec.Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Posti didnt read the entire thing just the first 2 pages and then the last 2 lol. what happened to the OEM airbox? i saw it but then saw a different box at the end.Last edited by Slideways; 04-24-2020, 11:20 AM.
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I still have the OEM airbox. It was just a different variant than people are used to seeing— the one evolve copied.Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Posti didnt read the entire thing just the first 2 pages and then the last 2 lol. what happened to the OEM airbox? i saw it but then saw a different box at the end.
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i didnt read the entire thing just the first 2 pages and then the last 2 lol. what happened to the OEM airbox? i saw it but then saw a different box at the end.
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Made some changes to the suspension, which included eye balling the ride height (with a tape measure). Spent 2 hours setting up and leveling my scales, only to sit down in the car and find the cross weight was already at 49.9%. Le sigh.
Interestingly, though, I did notice that the cross weight stays identical to the .1% when I'm in the car or not-- which I believe means my COG is exactly centered between the front and rear axles in my natural driving position. Kind of cool.
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I saw that it was now possible to run the OE performance steering wheel in the e46 a couple of weeks ago, as seen here: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=611535
The thing that held me back was that the while OLED display in the center really doesn't jibe with the e46 gauges/instruments. The gauges in the center are also a lot less useful for us, as our clusters already have useful gauges . At the end of the day, all I really wanted was the shift lights.
... which led to an offline conversation with Terraphantm about them, or, specifically getting the OE cluster shift lights to strobe at redline (allowing them to be more noticeable in peripheral vision-- which I don't find the default shift lights to be). Which, happily, he was able to do by writing a little program in the program space. He's still dialing in the pulse speed of the lights, and going to be making a thread with the details on how to do it, but in the short term, upgraded shift lights in the cluster:
Now that I'm running this in both M3's, I no longer have any desire for the shift lights on the steering wheel.
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Chaning things up for this winter. 25 lbs stiffer on each front spring, stiffer front sway, will have a rear sway again.
Setup:
350 front left
325 front right
700 rear left
628 rear right
Ground Control 7 gauge race front sway
CSL rear sway with some adjustable end links I made myself
Puts me at 1.89hz front, 2.07hz rear, so 1.1 bounce ratio (10% flat ride).
Depending on where I set the sway adjustment I can set the front roll couple to be pretty much anywhere in the 70-80% range-- going to start it in the middle and dial it in by taste.
Front roll stiffness is ~double stock (over/under depending on where I end up setting the sway), rear roll stiffness is ~50% more than stock.
I really enjoyed using flat ride in 2019, but the rear end feels slightly off without a sway. I'm hopeful this new setup will be bang on perfect.
If it is, next winter I'll have the Ohlins rebuilt/revalved for my specific corner weights/spring rates. They're coming due for a rebuild anyway, and my corner weights are pretty finalized (not much significant weight left to take off the car).
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Because of the fresh baby, I haven't really done a ton of car stuff since June.
I also got a new job, that I'll be starting next Monday. Assuming I like it as much as I'm expecting to, we'll be moving closer to it come spring.
So, this weekend I went on a drive with some of the locals in the area we'd be looking to move to. HOLY SHIT they have some good roads. Traffic free, no people, turns upon turns upon turns. I can't freaking wait to live in an area where every drive is amazing again. :agree:
Cleaned up and ready to go:

Random spot we stopped for some pictures


Back gathered for lunch after:

And then when i got home I put new gas with fuel stabilizer in the car and started taking her apart for this winters project.
CSL sway removed, and shipped it off today:
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Been playing with the Qi charger design a bit. The final version will be black-- just using white because I don't like it, so use it for parts that'll end up in the trash :P
Charger I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Matching the shape of the charger test piece:

Installed in the actual shape, charger properly oriented:

Back plate cover with countersunk screw holes:

slot the phone goes into:

back cover attached at 2 of the 9 screw holes:

The entire thing will fit below the lip of the door card (towards the rear) on the e46, which means it'll be 100% invisible once installed unless you're hovering over the door card looking for it. The taller surface will mount against the outside of the door card, so you'll just slip you hand in and be able to touch most of the phone to remove it.
Net iteration is remove the front bottom, as I realize it serves no purpose in holding the phone and should make getting the phone out easier:
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