what kind of power supply do you use duiring flashing?

[maupineda]

which one do you use?

this, bought at Autozone

[freezingair]

I have used a 10A without issue

which one do you use?

[freezingair]

These chargers only do 6v/12v as far as I see, so I don't know where you're going to find the 13-14v. I think the person who wrote that suggested 13-14v because that's what the battery puts out when the car is running?

Yes, that is also my question about this. I saw this one Amazon.com: CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery Charger,Black : Automotive has power supply mode which can give out 13.6V and 7A. But not 10A.

[freezingair]

I guess depends. Quick mssflasher to read/write a partial bin you should be fine (unless you know your battery is on it's last legs), updating full bin or modules which take time, could be a different story. As precaution, turn automatic lights off, radio off, fan/ac off.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Are those flasher software all the same? I saw mssflasher and also MSS5x etc. Just get confused.

[freezingair]

What are you flashing? A fully charged battery should get you through a few DME flashes no problem. Only takes a couple minutes to flash the DME. Yes, there's a chance of messing up the DME if the battery dips too low, but you'll notice before that happens (lights get dim, radio starts popping, etc.).

I recently did a bunch of flashing/coding on mrgizmo04 's car without plugging it in and it was fine even on his teeny lithium ion battery.

Just mentioning this to save you some money/time in case all you're trying to do is flash one tune onto your car. I think the reason the SMG flash thread mentions a charger is that that actually takes a long time (more on the order of a half hour than a couple min).

Just got my M3 with a shark injector v2 tune. The owner wants to sell his device to me. I just don't want to spend this kind of money. So I'm trying to flash stock first and then CSL DME. I assume it may take longer than coding some parameters or tune.

[mrgizmo04]

I guess depends. Quick mssflasher to read/write a partial bin you should be fine (unless you know your battery is on it's last legs), updating full bin or modules which take time, could be a different story. As precaution, turn automatic lights off, radio off, fan/ac off.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[heinzboehmer]

What are you flashing? A fully charged battery should get you through a few DME flashes no problem. Only takes a couple minutes to flash the DME. Yes, there's a chance of messing up the DME if the battery dips too low, but you'll notice before that happens (lights get dim, radio starts popping, etc.).

I recently did a bunch of flashing/coding on mrgizmo04 's car without plugging it in and it was fine even on his teeny lithium ion battery.

Just mentioning this to save you some money/time in case all you're trying to do is flash one tune onto your car. I think the reason the SMG flash thread mentions a charger is that that actually takes a long time (more on the order of a half hour than a couple min).

[maupineda]

I have used a 10A without issue

[Tbonem3]

These chargers only do 6v/12v as far as I see, so I don't know where you're going to find the 13-14v. I think the person who wrote that suggested 13-14v because that's what the battery puts out when the car is running?

[freezingair]

Thanks, I just read it here and other websites mentioned 10A.

DIY: Flashing your SMG module with CSL Software + CSL Rev Matching and Torque Maps - NA M3 Forums
"
- An E46 M3 equipped with the SMG2 Transmission
- BMW Standard Tools 2.5.0 or later (Should come with WinKFP 5.1.6 or newer)
- Access to E46 data files (I recommend Ista/P V37 or later)
- Some sort power supply that can stably supply 13-14V at 10A

Unlike coding with NCS Expert, reflashing a module with WinKFP takes quite a bit of time and consumes quite a bit of power. A failure is almost guaranteed if you don’t use a good power supply. Make sure it isn’t one that’ll automatically turn off."

[Tbonem3]

I didn't know 10amp was suggested. I thought even a trickle charger at lower, "maintenance" amperage like 4amp was sufficient. What's the likelihood of a batteyr to go bad if it's on a trickle charger?

Perhaps you want a switchable charger that does maintence (lower amp) for when the car sits AND higher amp (10a) for flashing and recharging a low battery?

Interested to see more responses, good question!

[freezingair]

Hi i'm pretty new to tuning. Read some thing about we need to Maintenace votage and current of 10 A during flashing. Otherwise, may get a bricked dme. What kind of power supply/charger do you guys normally use? How about this two? thanks!
Amazon.com: 12-Amp Smart Battery Charger,Lithium,Lead-Acid(AGM/Gel/SLA) Pulse Repair Car Battery Charger,Trickle Charger,Maintainer/Deep Cycle Charger,12V/10A | 24V/7.5A for Automotive,Boat,Motorcycle,Lawn Mower : Automotive

Amazon.com: CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery Charger,Black : Automotive