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need advice to fix clear coat defect

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    So, as said above, they only way for a flawless fix is respray. My painter first tried to just respray a tiny area and blend in, but it was a bit obvious. He then sprayed a larger area (from jamb down to moulding up to rubber window seal) and then blended out for perfect color match.

    This is the full and expensive way to do it. He said if you simply try to re-clear, you'll always see it and it'll always bother you.

    For some, the cheaper and smaller fix might be good enough, but I wanted perfect.

    Price is hard to say cause I had other work done. If that was all I needed, it'd probably be like $800-1k.

    I'll post a pic at sime point. I may have a "before" close up of the clear coat failure still

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    So I found a guy in my town who's a pro and does work at his house for locals. He said most shops will overcharge because they'd prefer to paint more than necessary, i.e., a whole panel, just to avoid blending. If a guy is good at blending, he can charge less and keep the respray small.

    He's actually willing to fix my clear coat issue (tree sap, jelly bean size) for free if I use him to fix my rock chips up front. But he said it'd be 200-300 dollars on it's own. He uses OE (glasurit iirc) paint.
    If he has good recommendations from people you know, and it sounds like he does, then you've got a steal. Pro body shop would charge you 3 to 5x more.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    So I found a guy in my town who's a pro and does work at his house for locals. He said most shops will overcharge because they'd prefer to paint more than necessary, i.e., a whole panel, just to avoid blending. If a guy is good at blending, he can charge less and keep the respray small.

    He's actually willing to fix my clear coat issue (tree sap, jelly bean size) for free if I use him to fix my rock chips up front. But he said it'd be 200-300 dollars on it's own. He uses OE (glasurit iirc) paint.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stack
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    I also have similar size clear coat damage from tree sap years ago. Anyone have an idea of what it'd cost to have a shop fix an issue like OP has?
    Do you have a picture


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    I also have similar size clear coat damage from tree sap years ago. Anyone have an idea of what it'd cost to have a shop fix an issue like OP has?

    Leave a comment:


  • antknee
    replied
    Here is a video of what i described above

    https://youtu.be/gmLYYxP7fsY

    Leave a comment:


  • antknee
    replied
    i've corrected chips like this before as mentioned above. You have to pile/glob up the touch up paint past & over the edges of the chip. From there you have to carefully wetsand down to where the touchup is level with the original paint......compound, polish. You can get an almost flawless result if done properly. Trick is when wetsanding to completely sand flat (i usually use an old rectangle eraser) as my 'sanding block'.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stack
    replied
    to make this 100 percent, It will have to be resprayed

    what a pro will do is "pile up" paint to create a little hill if you will.
    and start to level it down with various grits.



    If this is an eye sore there is a quick fix i will post the link here with a video.



    Click image for larger version

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    https://www.colorxlabs.com/products/...scratch-repair



    Attached Files

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  • Maxima SE
    replied
    I have decided to not mess with it on my own. its really not that noticeable. Ill find a pro detailer to touch it up properly. I don't want to make it worse than it is. still makes me sad because most of my panels are in excellent shape and now I have this....

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Automotive touch up's silvergrey was not a good match.

    Leave a comment:


  • BoomTastic
    replied
    Best to use a mini detail hvlp gun and do light touch of base then clear, then buff to blend with the hood. You will absolutely have to sand and use filler to make sure its even and gone afterwards.

    No cheap or easy way to do this. Get something to practice on.

    Leave a comment:


  • Icecream
    replied
    Originally posted by Zero View Post
    These guys have color matches and 2 part clear in a spray can:

    https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

    I don't know but glue pulling is a last resort if the area cannot be reached. I would want to fix it but also cautious that I would create a disaster. You can build up the clear as much as you want and use a nub tool before paint correction. Or unfortunately bring it to someone with the experience otherwise you are looking at blending a larger area. I hate little dents myself and my car is Jet Black so everything shows.
    Used them and didn’t like their product. Metallic was a poor match, cans sprayed poorly. You can use spray cans (they work well) but you need to mask off a larger area and will waste a lot of product. Touch up direct has them too. I only mentioned airbrush cause I thought it might be a little less messy and more precise for a small fix. Good luck!

    Leave a comment:


  • Zero
    replied
    These guys have color matches and 2 part clear in a spray can:

    https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

    I don't know but glue pulling is a last resort if the area cannot be reached. I would want to fix it but also cautious that I would create a disaster. You can build up the clear as much as you want and use a nub tool before paint correction. Or unfortunately bring it to someone with the experience otherwise you are looking at blending a larger area. I hate little dents myself and my car is Jet Black so everything shows.

    Leave a comment:


  • Maxima SE
    replied
    Thank you for the advice. I may have to try the spray method.

    I can’t make him pay because it’s my word vs his. he said it happened because the panel has either been painted before or the clear has been sanded down to nothing. Both of those are BS excuses to brush it off.

    I know my car very well. No previous paint work. you can tell in the pic that the clear is still nice and thick so it hasn’t been sanded down. Also the orange peel is even throughout the entire car which again rules out previous sanding or repaint. Also the paint matches perfectly which rules out previous paint work.

    this specific spot is right above the rear passenger 1/4 panel side molding. He glu pulled two dents right below the same molding 10” away from this area. How come the clear didn’t get pulled on those 2 dents if it’s been repainted or sanded down before ? Another strike against his argument.

    it happened because he tried to pull it twice and failed. He cleaned the glue residue with 90% isopropyl alcohol which weakened the clear. On the last try he pulled it way more aggressively and didn’t warm the paint up and the clear came right off. Again my word vs his. He pulled a bunch of dents on this car and also on my E92 without problems. Shit happens but I think it could have been prevented if he was more delicate and rinsed the alcohol and let the clear harden again

    The paint is actually still intact, minus a tiny area on the top where the paint is gone. It looked much better before he put a blob of clear coat on there with a pen. Now it looks like shit.
    Last edited by Maxima SE; 07-31-2020, 03:53 PM.

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  • Zero
    replied
    My PDR guy won't glue pull if he suspects a repaint. And he very specifically won't glue pull unless I give him an OK which more or less relinquishes him of any accountability.

    The previous post is solid advice. I don't think you can start with 3000 grit though. I have wet-sanded factory paint and it was fine, but you definitely don't want to end up with something worse.

    Leave a comment:

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