Car trailers

[lvm3sm46]

I am interested in buying a trailer to get the car back and forth to the track. I see they make full steel deck, wood deck, or all aluminum (which is out of my budget)

What do you guys say is best to use?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

~Jay

[foolio]

Well, it sort of depends what you are towing with. I know you say aluminum is out of your budget, but, look around for used ones. Maybe get a deal? I have an aluminum trailer with wheel rack that I paid $4400 for brand new but that was back in 2017. They are probably double that now with inflation and all. My car weighs in at just under 3000 lbs. the trailer is about 1000. I pull with a Touareg TDI and it does so effortlessly. Before this past year, I was pulling with a Tundra with the 5.7. The Touareg actually tows better. Way more stable not to mention a nicer cabin to be in.

[lvm3sm46]

Actually I will be towing with a 2017 Tundra. The aluminum Trailex new are $8500 plus options. I can get a wood deck steel trailer for $3500. I would love to find a deal on a aluminum but here in NY deals are non existent as everyone overprices whatever they are selling.

Which brand trailer did you get?

[foolio]

This where I got mine: https://rnrtrailers.com/product/alum...-series-open/#

You see a lot of these in the Midwest as they are based out of Michigan. I think they were about 4 hours from me in Indianapolis.

[bigjae46]

I use a basic wood deck trailer with a 2' dovetail. I think it is about 2k lbs and the car is 2650-ish. I have race ramps and I remove the front splitter to load/unload the car. My splitter can be removed in about 2 minutes.

I recommend dual 3.5k axles. My buddy used a trailer which heavier duty axles and taller tires. That made loading much harder.

Or you can find a reliable low spot where you can put the trailer tires in to make loading easier. For example, at my local track there is a drainage ditch where I put the trailer tires into. I can easily load/unload without removing the splitter.

[lvm3sm46]

bigjae46 can you share how you strap the car down etc and which components you use?

[bigjae46]

My trailer has the stake pockets on the side but no other tie down points. You might have to plan to have some d-rings or hooks welded on after the fact. I use 3333lb straps, probably overkill but the next rating lower is 1000 lbs which is kind of on the limit. I go around the bar/frame on the front to the wheels. I had two d-rings welded onto the back for the rear wheels. They fold down do it doesn't interfere with loading the car by catching on the underside. I just use a regular ratchet strap through the wheel spokes and then hook the snap rings together.

I align the car a lot, I haven't had an issue with the alignment being thrown off by running the straps through the wheels. I don't cross the straps either which might increase the chances of throwing the alignment off...not sure why people do that. If you loose a strap then the other side will start pulling the load off the trailer until it also gets loose. If you go straight back then you can lose up to 2 straps and still be ok.

I want to get some D-rings welded on the front and then use these straps...MUCH faster!

Bulldog Winch Combo Ratcheting Tie-Down Strap - 2" Wide x 10' Long - 3,335 lbs Bulldog Winch Car Tie Down Straps BDW20229 (etrailer.com)

[lcrain]

All I will say is that all aluminum, while more expensive initially, is the route I would go. I have owned two trailers, both all aluminum construction. The advantages are weight, will not rust/corrode and they hold their value very, very well. I sold my first aluminum trailer (a used aluma open trailer) for exactly what I paid for it a few years earlier.

[bigjae46]

All I will say is that all aluminum, while more expensive initially, is the route I would go. I have owned two trailers, both all aluminum construction. The advantages are weight, will not rust/corrode and they hold their value very, very well. I sold my first aluminum trailer (a used aluma open trailer) for exactly what I paid for it a few years earlier.

I can't recommend steel, requires so much upkeep. My wood trailer hasn't been bad. Have to stay on top of keeping the wood deck. Had a tire poke through the dovetail when the wood rotted. DIY re-decking isn't that hard, just need someone to do some quick welding. I treated regular wood and its 3 years old so far. Don't see why I can't get another 2-3 years from the deck.

If you're committed then I fully agree aluminum is just easier in almost every way.

If I upgrade I'm going to an enclosed trailer.

[Sergmann]

I have been through three trailers so far. First was an all steel with open center which I bought when I was towing a miata with a Tacoma. Great trailer and served its purpose but had no utility other than towing the car since the middle was open. The second was all aluminum open deck which was great. Light weight, no real maintenance other than bearings and tires. I am now using an all aluminum enclosed trailer which I had to get due to my garage situation and needing storage. The enclosed is nice because I basically have a "racecar in a box" and can keep the trailer full of all my track stuff without having to pack and unpack for every event. Of the three the open aluminum was the best overall. The enclosed is a bit of a pain to tow and nets me 9mpg while towing...If you can afford aluminum its well worth the extra money. My open steel trailer needed wire brush/spray bombing about every 3 years or so. No matter what you end up with if you are buying used make sure to give the trailer a real solid look. Tires and brakes on these things tend to be an issue since a lot of trailer tend to sit more than move. My .02

[eternaln]

It may be hard to be picky when browsing the used market, but things such as a dovetail, a wider trailer, fender clearance and multiple strap points are something that should be taken into consideration. I've had a narrow steel trailer with heavy, short ramps which required long race ramps. Made loading/unloading a real pain and very difficult to do solo.

[lvm3sm46]

Slim pickings in the market right now. There is not 1 aluminum trailer in all of the NE. New just isn't in the budget at this time but even if it was I cant even find a new aluminum trailer for sale anywhere.

[eternaln]

I would just get a used steel or wood trailer for now if that is what's in budget. Used aluminum trailers held their values very well even before the inventory shortages caused by the pandemic. I've noticed that users on rennlist have aluminum trailers for sale here and there so you may want to take a look there.

[bigjae46]

I have been through three trailers so far. First was an all steel with open center which I bought when I was towing a miata with a Tacoma. Great trailer and served its purpose but had no utility other than towing the car since the middle was open. The second was all aluminum open deck which was great. Light weight, no real maintenance other than bearings and tires. I am now using an all aluminum enclosed trailer which I had to get due to my garage situation and needing storage. The enclosed is nice because I basically have a "racecar in a box" and can keep the trailer full of all my track stuff without having to pack and unpack for every event. Of the three the open aluminum was the best overall. The enclosed is a bit of a pain to tow and nets me 9mpg while towing...If you can afford aluminum its well worth the extra money. My open steel trailer needed wire brush/spray bombing about every 3 years or so. No matter what you end up with if you are buying used make sure to give the trailer a real solid look. Tires and brakes on these things tend to be an issue since a lot of trailer tend to sit more than move. My .02

I'm thinking I'll go with an enclosed gooseneck. Harder to steal but it also tows a lot better. Also keep the open trailer for local stuff. But I keep going back and forth between a gooseneck and 3/4 ton and a bumper pull and a 1/2 ton.

Either way an enclosed trailer would be great. I spend about an hour loading and another hour unloading. AC in TX would be a big bonus. Some people sleep in their trailer but screw that...12 years in the Army has made me hate camping. I want a bed in a climate controlled room.

[Sergmann]

I'm thinking I'll go with an enclosed gooseneck. Harder to steal but it also tows a lot better. Also keep the open trailer for local stuff. But I keep going back and forth between a gooseneck and 3/4 ton and a bumper pull and a 1/2 ton.

Either way an enclosed trailer would be great. I spend about an hour loading and another hour unloading. AC in TX would be a big bonus. Some people sleep in their trailer but screw that...12 years in the Army has made me hate camping. I want a bed in a climate controlled room.

I will say the enclosed trailer saved my butt during covid. Most hotels were closed so it was either pitch a tent or sleep in the trailer. I'm in new england though so heat wasn't as big of an issue.