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Stacking coolers…which one in front? Oil or coolant?

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    Stacking coolers…which one in front? Oil or coolant?

    I’m looking at redesigning my oil cooling so I can lower operating temps, reduce drag, and maybe save some weight.

    I run the OE cooler and a secondary cooler mounted behind the kidney grill. It is about 5-6 inches in front of the radiator. I have an external eBay thermostat. The oil runs to the thermostat, OE cooler, secondary cooler, and back to the thermostat.

    It works…I run about 260-270 degrees for oil temps and then I do have to do some managing when ambient temps get over 80-85 degrees. Managing - shifting a little sooner, run 5th instead of 4th in some stretches, and temps will drop 20-30 degrees in a lap or two. I can overload the system on longer sessions although not common.

    But water temps run 170 and maybe 180 on a super hot day in the late afternoon. But never a problem.

    I would like to avoid mounting oil cooler behind the pass foglight - I also run brake ducting.

    I’ve been considering mounting an oil cooler behind and against the radiator. Then duct the oil cooler through the hood or wheel well. This should help warm up the oil and improve the aero. I’ve read that it also improves cooling efficiency.

    I see that PWR makes a stacked radiator/oil cooler with the oil cooler behind for a GM.

    I’m 75% sure I’m going to go ahead with mounting the oil cooler on the back of the radiator.

    Just wanted to get any thoughts or if experience if anyone tried this.

    The Late Model Stacked Package is our Latest solution for Pavement Late Model Racing. This package is available in two heights. 16.5″ tall and 18.5″ tall. Stacked directly behind the radiator is a high performing 19mm thick oil cooler core, which decreases oil temperatures and helps to lower water temperatures. The tall version comes with [...]

    #2
    Have you ever tried a bigger oil cooler that the OE cooler?

    Do you have ducting that force fresh air to go thru the oil cooler and radiator?
    2001 BMW E46 M3 Laguna Seca / M-Texture 6mt
    2006 BMW E46 M3 Individual Estoril blue/Black 6mt
    2019 BMW X3 M40i Phytonic blue/Tartufo Individual

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      #3
      Originally posted by Gt4 View Post
      Have you ever tried a bigger oil cooler that the OE cooler?

      Do you have ducting that force fresh air to go thru the oil cooler and radiator?
      I have a relatively new OE cooler on right now. I’ve seen the CSF cooler in action and not too impressed with it. I have thought about the C&R unit from Bimmerworld.

      I have the OE ducting in front, nothing in the rear. I’ve been thinking about the Chase Bays tucked radiator so I can push the radiator forward and duct it out of the hood, wheel wells, or maybe to the brakes.

      If I can mount a small oil cooler on the back I can just duct the oil cooler into a wheel well.

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        #4
        Do you still have the intake duct on top of rad support?

        Do you have a pusher or puller fan or no fan setup?
        2001 BMW E46 M3 Laguna Seca / M-Texture 6mt
        2006 BMW E46 M3 Individual Estoril blue/Black 6mt
        2019 BMW X3 M40i Phytonic blue/Tartufo Individual

        Comment


          #5
          Used the CSF for 6 years with no issues, second build is also getting a CSF. Have never had to lift due to temps and that's running Mid Ohio and VIR in 90F+ with high humidity. I believe my buddies running WRL all use it as well. One thing that does alter the temps is keeping the stock plastic in place to force air through the rad/oil cooler. Or fabricate something if you are going to delete all the plastic.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Gt4 View Post
            Do you still have the intake duct on top of rad support?

            Do you have a pusher or puller fan or no fan setup?
            I do not have the duct on top, the secondary oil cooler blocks the path.

            No fans.

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              #7
              Originally posted by CrookedCommie View Post
              Used the CSF for 6 years with no issues, second build is also getting a CSF. Have never had to lift due to temps and that's running Mid Ohio and VIR in 90F+ with high humidity. I believe my buddies running WRL all use it as well. One thing that does alter the temps is keeping the stock plastic in place to force air through the rad/oil cooler. Or fabricate something if you are going to delete all the plastic.
              What RPMs are you shifting at? That makes a huge difference in temps. If I run a CSF cooler then I would need to keep the eBay thermostat since I have the diverter valve installed. Part of the appeal of running a second oil cooler on the back of the radiator is to aid in warming up the oil.

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                #8
                8200 but sometimes I miss and hit fuel cutoff.

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                  #9
                  C&R will save weight. Thebuildjournal also sells a kit to direct air if you remove the front kidney shroud.

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