Inspecting Wheel Studs?

[eacmen]

The need for them to make a special tool for this has me asking a question. Is there something wrong or damaging about using the double nut method?

The bw race studs spec 70 lb-ft or something like that


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[foolio]

The need for them to make a special tool for this has me asking a question. Is there something wrong or damaging about using the double nut method?

For Apex studs the torque to install is only 22-25 ft./lbs. I can’t imagine a double nut is going to distort threads. It’s so little that if you have the hex head type you will even be fine without double nutting it to get the torque with just the hex socket.

[SandeepM3]

If you are using the bullet nose style wheel studs, the Snap-On stud installer doesn't have a deep enough well. I've reached out to Snap-On's "Submit a Product Idea" group to develop a deep-well version of the stud installer. Fingers crossed. 😎

Feff

The need for them to make a special tool for this has me asking a question. Is there something wrong or damaging about using the double nut method?

[Feffman]

.....Snap On Stud Installer: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215N .....l

If you are using the bullet nose style wheel studs, the Snap-On stud installer doesn't have a deep enough well. I've reached out to Snap-On's "Submit a Product Idea" group to develop a deep-well version of the stud installer. Fingers crossed. 😎

Feff

[king-rb]

Definitely a wear item, replace as such. Also a PITA when you have one shear at the track without proper tools to remove

[Estoril]

To the question: You cannot inspect studs for impending failure - short of having a metallurgy lab (in fact I plan to send my current studs to a University metallurgy lab for inspection - arranged by a friend). As noted earlier - studs are wear items. Change them on a schedule. If you wait for failure - you'll get the failure you were waiting for.

If you beat on studs with an impact wrench, cut your change interval in half.

After looking extensively at all options - I went with MSI. Buy once, cry once.


This is what semi-regular impact wrench beating with no torque stick gets. All of these failed mid-turn with costly damage (not my failure/car). Note the internal corrosion on all of them due to hairline cracks.

The owner didn't do any of his own brake/tire work - so likely both. Shops like fast & easy.

[eacmen]

Probably one of the few jobs that I'd have a shop do. Never again.

Definitely a worthwhile upgrade when the wheel bearings go bad. That's when i plan on making the switch.

[CrookedCommie]

Awesome info. Press-in studs are definitely the way to go. The only catch IMO is changing the rear hub (and bearing while you're at it) is a PITA.

Probably one of the few jobs that I'd have a shop do. Never again.

[elbert]

I've never had a failure but I switched to Core4motorsports press in studs.
There is some good info here
https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

Awesome info. Press-in studs are definitely the way to go. The only catch IMO is changing the rear hub (and bearing while you're at it) is a PITA.

[Nugs]

I've never had a failure but I switched to Core4motorsports press in studs.
There is some good info here

https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

[CrookedCommie]

Great find Feff, and the price isn't bad either. I'm always worried about damaging the stud threads on install using the double nut method.

[eacmen]

Good Day All:

For those of you removing and installing 12mm X 1.5 wheel studs, here's a couple of tools you many want to consider. They also come in other sizes.

Snap On Stud Remover: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215R

Snap On Stud Installer: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215N

I like the fact the stud installer gives you the option to torque in the studs to specs. Pretty easy to use per Snap On's web site video.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/productvide...d%20MSKM10.mp4

Hope this helps.

Feff

Oh man. That would have made the job WAY easier. Definitely buying that kit for next time.

[Feffman]

Good Day All:

For those of you removing and installing 12mm X 1.5 wheel studs, here's a couple of tools you many want to consider. They also come in other sizes.

Snap On Stud Remover: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215R

Snap On Stud Installer: https://shop.snapon.com/product/MSK-M1215N

I like the fact the stud installer gives you the option to torque in the studs to specs. Pretty easy to use per Snap On's web site video.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/productvide...d%20MSKM10.mp4

Hope this helps.

Feff

[r4dr]

To the question: You cannot inspect studs for impending failure - short of having a metallurgy lab (in fact I plan to send my current studs to a University metallurgy lab for inspection - arranged by a friend). As noted earlier - studs are wear items. Change them on a schedule. If you wait for failure - you'll get the failure you were waiting for.

If you beat on studs with an impact wrench, cut your change interval in half.

After looking extensively at all options - I went with MSI. Buy once, cry once.


This is what semi-regular impact wrench beating with no torque stick gets. All of these failed mid-turn with costly damage (not my failure/car). Note the internal corrosion on all of them due to hairline cracks.

Impact wrench loosening or tightening?

[bigseatchris]

Huh, I've noticed that FCP has started selling aftermarket parts fairly recently. I may have to do the same!

They are starting to expand their catalog ever so slightly. There’s a decent amount of after market on there, but it’s nothing really worth to write home about except for maybe the MSi parts. Hopefully they continue to grow it, I don’t live too far away from them so I’m slowly switching to buying through them full time.