Big WHP S54 Track builds

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

Only mods left are this and aero. The goal was to chase GT3's, but now I have to chase GT4CS's as well.

How is working with Randy and Epic? Are you having to quarterback between the dyno place and them?

At my local track, I'm pulling about 2:10 times with my heavily track prepped m3 and the stock gt3rs's are running in the low 2:03's. There's really just no comparison between the two cars unless you really drop a ton of money into the M3 to compete. I even benchmarked the local NASA racers and with their aero/hoosiers/experience will finally get to a comparable time to a stock gt3.

But with Randy, it's been good. Yes, there's many other tuners out there who know how to manipulate tunes, but there's very few people with as much racing experience as Randy. It's been pretty straight forward so far, but yes you're kinda right. You have to either find a friendly dyno shop that's flexible with their schedule to coordinate with Randy. It's a lot of initial setup/flashing/remote connecting to him. I'm gonna be going through round 2 with him after I get my rod bearings replaced.

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

What headers are recommended? There are a lot of options, some of them very inexpensive. So is it worth it to spend more on some of the pricey headers or are Euro S54 headers good enough on their own?

My two cents, headers are a PITA to swap out. You might as well go with the best you can afford so you do it once. Many folks believe the Supersprint headers are the best, so do your research. The previous owner for my car had already installed the SS headers and they've been great.

[ethan]

At my local track, I'm pulling about 2:10 times with my heavily track prepped m3 and the stock gt3rs's are running in the low 2:03's. There's really just no comparison between the two cars unless you really drop a ton of money into the M3 to compete. I even benchmarked the local NASA racers and with their aero/hoosiers/experience will finally get to a comparable time to a stock gt3.

To be fair, a 996 GT3 isn't a 2020 GT3RS, and the former is a lot more common at the casual PCA HPDE events I've been to. You guys are doing more serious stuff of course, but don't go too hard on the CSL! It's a pretty good match for the GT3 of its era.

By the numbers, a CSL-weight M3 with the mods being discussed in this thread should be a bit faster than a stock 996. I'm sure you guys are more stripped than I am (I have carpets), and I'm a bit below CSL weight and probably making some more power.

[CrookedCommie]

Right, my buddies run 6-7gt3's and we're about the same pace. 991's+ and GT4CS's are a different animal, but you can still harass them in the corners depending on driver 😂

We're in the unclassed HPDE championship, just not front runners.

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

Yeah fair point, the gt3/gt3rs that are members at my track are more of the 991+ variety so it's pretty tough to keep up with them.

[Ob917]

I’m in the middle of a 288/280 Shrick cam install with turner box and needing a good tune, it’s a fairly expensive mod and I’m really hoping I don’t regret it for some reason that I’m not yet aware of. Any advice from people that have a similar setup? Light weight street car that is heading to do some track days in SoCal.

[bigjae46]

I’ve always thought of an E46 being a Miata with a lot more power. So counterpoint to more power. I’m running at 2900 lbs at 311 whp in this video. Interesting to see the F80 is probably gaining about 2-3 seconds on the straights but still gain about 5-6 seconds a lap. Not sure about the details on the F80 but it takes a lot more HP which only works when you’re full throttle to catch up. I’m about 700lbs less and that works around the entire track. Just a thought if you’re looking to catch GT3s.

And my brake pads are going to last about 8-10 weekends at current wear rate. I use about 20% less fuel and I get an extra 2 days out of tires vs most other E46 M3s.

My car is about 2300lbs with no cage, dry, lithium battery and no passenger seat. I think I’ve drilled over 100 spot welds. Remove every unnecessary bracket, wire, bolt and nut. Trim panels back and remove and elements of comfort, convenience, and style. I even cut the Y bracket under the intake manifold in half...that’s what it takes.

As driven, the car is 2600 dry with cage and w/o passenger seat. I’ve spent about $1300 in weight loss items (lexan windows, sunroof delete, supplies). No carbon fiber up to this point. I’ve gotten as far as I can without spending money.

It’s surprisingly doesn't take a lot of money to make the car light. It takes a LOT of time. The long term goal is to get the car down to about 2475lbs and then replace the cage tubing that is currently 1.5”x.125 to 1.5”x.095. Then it should be at a ridiculous 2425lbs dry. 2675 as raced.

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[CrookedCommie]

It takes a LOT of time.

Yep. Car is at ~3000lbs with driver, so the low hanging fruit is already done. From now on any weight savings is either costly, not where I want to go with the track build (i.e. removing heater core), or will require too much time.

I would say your build is a bit of an outlier regarding weight

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

i'm in the same boat, about 3100 with driver/passenger/AC/half cage. if i keep cutting weight then i'll need to figure out how to start towing the car which is not something i'm willing to do just yet.