Light track prep options in 2021

[JustAWhisper]

Hello all,

I'm finally at a point where I can dive down the modding rabbit hole. My M3 is retired from daily duty and I want to start tracking the car more regularly. I've also decided I no longer care about SCCA autocross classing so that's not a consideration either. The only thing is the car still needs to be streetable since I don't have any plans to get a tow vehicle right now. Flexibility is important to me because I'm in the military and move a lot.

Up to now, I've been running Koni Yellows with stock springs, an H&R front sway bar, DS2500 brake pads w/ Project Mu fluid, but otherwise stock. Two of the Koni's seized over the winter and I'm now back to stock shocks and swaybar. I don't really have a desire to rebuild or reuse them as adjusting the rebound on the rear is a complete pain in the ass. I'm moving on to something new.

I think the first step is to put a good set of coilovers with front camber plates and a square set of wheels. I had looked at this a few years ago and the best solution back then was to get a set of MCS singles with Vorshlag or GC camber plates, and a set of 18x9.5" wheels. Unfortunately, it looks like MCS prices have gone up substantially since the last time I looked at this. $2750 for a single adjustable with no springs or camber plates is pretty rough. Since the market has changed so much, I think it's worth reevaluating what the best options are.

First, wheels. I assume 18x9.5 ET35 Apex ARC-8's is still the go to, but I'm also considering 18x10's. Is there a streetable 18x10 setup that doesn't rub (much)? I also see there are now affordable(-ish...) forged options from Apex and Bimmerworld. While the up front cost for forged is higher, I thinking it may be worth it if the resale is good. Any thoughts?

Next, coilovers. Sticker shock aside, there are still reasons to go MCS. I have multiple friends who swear by them and they can upgraded to srs bzns shocks without having to rebuy, which could save money in the long run if I decide I want to go that route. But I'm also considering some other options:
- I've heard good things about PSS10's with Vorshlag's linear spring conversion. It would get me a high quality single adjustable monotube, Vorshlag plates, and springs for less than $3K. Does anyone know if PSS10 is rebuildable into Clubsports?
- KW Clubsports come with camber plates, making them cheaper than MCS1WNR, have a long rebuild interval (100,000 street miles or several track seasons, supposedly), and are double adjustable. But they aren't spring rate customizeable from the factory and I hear KW USA is a pain to deal with. Does Bimmerworld interface with KW USA for you if you buy through them?
- I've heard some good things about Ohlins, but I don't know anyone who runs them. They also aren't cheap. Does anyone have thoughts on these?
- JRZ is probably out simply because I can't find a vendor I like who sells them anymore. I heard they had some QC issues, which is probably the cause of that.
- AST 5100 is probably out as well because, while the 5100 itself is probably a decent option, it locks me into the AST upgrade path and 5200's require a true coilover rear, which goes against my desire for flexibility.
- Finally, I stumbled across a vendor called Fortune Auto that has me intrigued. Their 510 model is extremely affordable and is upgradeable to a srs bzns shock. The features look good and they came with camber plates. Does anyone have experience with these?

I can't say I'm leaning one way or another. I feel like I need more information on a purchase this big, and I can only get some much from vendor websites.

The only other thing I'm looking at right now is trying to get a cat-back exhaust to save some weight. Bimmerworld Race is the king for weight savings, but I need to be able to drive the car on the street without earplugs. I see they now have a Street/Track variant, but I watched a Youtube video and it sounds like it's still obscenely loud. Does anyone have personable experience with that exhaust? Supersprint is too expensive. Is there anything else out there that's reasonable light and inexpensive?

Any other good websites to look for deals on used exhausts and other stuff? It's too bad M3Forum died, as that was super active. I've been looking here and e46fanatics, but haven't seen anything worth jumping on.

Thanks.

[bigjae46]

I have TC Kline doubles. Used the since 2012 and for about 50k miles. They probably need a rebuild but they’ve been durable and perform well for both street and track use. Priced well and TC Kline provides great support.

Only complaint is I wish the rears would support slightly higher spring rates. I have 700lbs rear, would like to go to 800. I think they can be rebuilt for higher spring rates...I think just a little more range would be nice.

Also a rear coilover option.

Those are the only two things that make me look at MCS or JRZs as a replacement for my track car.

I think the TCKs are the best dual use option under $4k incl springs and camber plates.


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[S14]

considering some other options:
- I've heard good things about PSS10's with Vorshlag's linear spring conversion. It would get me a high quality single adjustable monotube, Vorshlag plates, and springs for less than $3K. Does anyone know if PSS10 is rebuildable into Clubsports?
- KW Clubsports come with camber plates, making them cheaper than MCS1WNR, have a long rebuild interval (100,000 street miles or several track seasons, supposedly), and are double adjustable. But they aren't spring rate customizeable from the factory and I hear KW USA is a pain to deal with. Does Bimmerworld interface with KW USA for you if you buy through them?
- I've heard some good things about Ohlins, but I don't know anyone who runs them. They also aren't cheap. Does anyone have thoughts on these?
- JRZ is probably out simply because I can't find a vendor I like who sells them anymore. I heard they had some QC issues, which is probably the cause of that.
- AST 5100 is probably out as well because, while the 5100 itself is probably a decent option, it locks me into the AST upgrade path and 5200's require a true coilover rear, which goes against my desire for flexibility.
- Finally, I stumbled across a vendor called Fortune Auto that has me intrigued. Their 510 model is extremely affordable and is upgradeable to a srs bzns shock. The features look good and they came with camber plates. Does anyone have experience with these?

Here is my opinion on the shocks you are considering...
-PSS10: street setup that can handle beginner/intermediate track duty. I'd consider getting the base non adjustable ones that later down the line you can send to FatCat Motorsports for his flatride setup.
-KW Clubsports: very nice on track, but jarring and horrible on the street
-Ohlins: I have the R&T coilovers as I wanted excatly what you want, a car I can drive on the street almost all the time, but would be fun on the track. They are a bit stiff on the street, great on the highway (clocked over 1,000 miles in a day in them) and work well on track.
- JRZ: Top of the line kit, I believe you can get them through VAC
- AST: I'd personally stay away from AST
- Fortune Auto: This is 100% my opinion here... but fortune auto to me looks like all the other BC/Megan/stance/etc taiwan coilovers, but fortune's are assembled in the US and sold at a higher price point.

As far as wheels/tires, you can also run 17x9.5 or 17x10 wheels with 275/40/17 tires. cheaper wheels (apex arc8) and cheaper tires.

[JustAWhisper]

bigjae46, I've heard of TC Kline, but had forgotten about them. I think part of the reason I didn't think about them is they use a customized Koni, and I haven't been thrilled with my Koni experience up to this point. But I know others have been happy with that setup as well.

Thanks for the feedback, S14. What do you do for camber with the Ohlins R&T? I hear you on the Fortune Auto thoughts. They are massively undercutting the market, and it's hard to tell if they're a totally new outfit trying to do what MCS did (MCS was super cheap when they first started out, but they quickly gained credibility and the prices have been going up ever since), or if they're faking it with copies of cheap crap. The fact that they have remote reservoir shocks in their catalog does seem to indicate they're trying to be serious. I might call them up to see what kind of vibe I get. I'll also look more into the Ohlins.

[bigjae46]

As far as wheels/tires, you can also run 17x9.5 or 17x10 wheels with 275/40/17 tires. cheaper wheels (apex arc8) and cheaper tires.

This. 17x10 wheels are hard to find but 17x9.5 will be better for a street car. And you can use a 12mm spacer.

Tires are the biggest consumable expense. You save about $150-$250 per set of tires running 17s. The catch is 200 UTOQ tires are limited...really need to be running r-comps. Nitto offers 275/40R17 street tires - NT05s. Not much else 200 UTOQ.


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[JustAWhisper]

This. 17x10 wheels are hard to find but 17x9.5 will be better for a street car. And you can use a 12mm spacer.

Tires are the biggest consumable expense. You save about $150-$250 per set of tires running 17s. The catch is 200 UTOQ tires are limited...really need to be running r-comps. Nitto offers 275/40R17 street tires - NT05s. Not much else 200 UTOQ.


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I'm not planning to run 17's for the reason you mentioned. Tire choices are limited. The 200 UTOQ tire war is bringing down prices and bringing up performance levels. Nitto NT01's just aren't even that good anymore, and they're not cheaper enough to warrant investing in 17 inch wheels when 200 UTOQ tires continue to improve. Flexibility is worth the additional investment in 18's.

[S14]

I'm not planning to run 17's for the reason you mentioned. Tire choices are limited. The 200 UTOQ tire war is bringing down prices and bringing up performance levels. Nitto NT01's just aren't even that good anymore, and they're not cheaper enough to warrant investing in 17 inch wheels when 200 UTOQ tires continue to improve. Flexibility is worth the additional investment in 18's.

What 200tw tire competes with the NT01? the old RE71 (discontinued) was as stickey, sure, but had less than half the life of NT01's on track days. The new falken RT660 comes in 275/40/17 and so far has high marks in auto-x and track sessions.

For my Ohlins, I bought new top mounts and swapped them side to side. I can get about -2.5 camber that way, which isn't enough for the Federal r-comps I ran last year, but again... it's a street car. I chose to run the stock top mounts because I hate the pops and bangs of camber plates when they get dirty, they are harsher & greater NVH, and Ohlins comes with a funnel shaped spring to use the larger OEM spring size at the top and the 60mm (or 2.25", I didn't measure) at the bottom. Buying camber plates + springs + Ohlins was out of my budget. With that said, I'll probably switch to a normal coilover spring and camber plates when I dive deeper into the flat ride setup.

[bigjae46]

I'm not planning to run 17's for the reason you mentioned. Tire choices are limited. The 200 UTOQ tire war is bringing down prices and bringing up performance levels. Nitto NT01's just aren't even that good anymore, and they're not cheaper enough to warrant investing in 17 inch wheels when 200 UTOQ tires continue to improve. Flexibility is worth the additional investment in 18's.

I run NT01s purely for cost. They are cheaper, last longer and take a lot of abuse. You don’t save a lot but if you’re regularly on the track then $150/set adds up.

I am going to try the Maxxis RC1s which have a new compound. Those cost $205ea in 17”. Also save 1lb per corner with a 17” wheel and tire vs an 18.

You can go down to a 255/40R17 which opens up your options. The difference between a 255 and 275 isn’t significant or even negligible if you’re on a 9.5” wheel.

Kind of have to run 18s if it’s a dual purpose car.


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[JustAWhisper]

I had intended to run Goodyear Supercar3's to start. I'm currently running them on stock size wheels, and I've been extremely impressed. They have RE-71R levels of grip, don't overheat as quickly, and last more than twice as long. They only come in 18" sizes.

I was also looking at the RT660 and I did not know they now have a a wide 17" size now. Good to know.

[r4dr]

Nitto NT01's just aren't even that good anymore

I don't know about this, though I agree 200 TW tires are better for what you're doing. NT01 is still how we judge all new tire compounds, because the combo of grip, longevity and pricing can't be beat...

[eternaln]

I don't know about this, though I agree 200 TW tires are better for what you're doing. NT01 is still how we judge all new tire compounds, because the combo of grip, longevity and pricing can't be beat...

Agreed, I have tried most of the track tires out there and the NT01 is still the baseline used for comparison. They are obviously not the fastest, but they are consistent from sticker to cord and have been around forever so there's a lot of data.

[S14]

I had intended to run Goodyear Supercar3's to start. I'm currently running them on stock size wheels, and I've been extremely impressed. They have RE-71R levels of grip, don't overheat as quickly, and last more than twice as long. They only come in 18" sizes.

I was also looking at the RT660 and I did not know they now have a a wide 17" size now. Good to know.

Interesting, I hadn't heard of these goodyears!

[MD_M3]

18x10 +25 wheels are very streetable. I did it for years before my car became track only. (275/35/18 tire)
JRZs are still readily available. Trackspec Autosports works direcly with JRZ and have helped developed their 3 way RSpro and also their Lotus line up. (PM me if you want to get in contact with them). I have the RSpro 2 way with remote reservoirs and it was worth every penny.
Bimmerworld exhaust is extremely loud. I ran the non resonated race version for a few years and i've been clocked at 108db. Had to make a custom section 3 and add a resonator to pass thee 90db limit at Laguna Seca (but it was heavy). Since then, I've made a custom 3.5 inch exhaust that clocked in at 103db at Sonoma.

Also in regards to the RT660. They're a great tire! I've done 6 days on them in an integra and they are very comparable to a re71 but way cheaper.

[r4dr]

Doesn't 18x10 et25 require over 3* of front camber with 275 width tires?

[MD_M3]

Doesn't 18x10 et25 require over 3* of front camber with 275 width tires?

At that time I as running -3.6 front and -2.5 rear