Recently became addicted to the track so parting out my setup to either do a track build or get a track car. Motor is brand new, finished over the winter but never used or even attempted to be started. The reason for this is that I simply never got around to finishing the rest of the car, and now I just want to go in a different direction.
Motor originally had just under 100k miles before the rebuild, but I wanted to keep the car only on 93 pump fuel. So my reason for building this motor was so I could run higher boost on pump gas, then it turned into a game of might as well do this while I am in there. Motor was in great shape when it was disassembled, probably could have lasted a while on 10psi in stock form.
All machine work was done by Bryan at Center Auto Machine Shop in Stratford, CT. They are not BMW specialists and do a bit of everything from diesels to 6sec GTR motors. However, he did an S54 cylinder head for the first motor I put together that was in rough shape and it turned out great. So I am confident this motor was built as well as it could be. He said the whole motor looked great. I was going to order 87.5mm pistons since that's all I thought was available but after speaking with Andrew Lang he recommended to get 87.25mm pistons if the bores were straight enough, which they were so he ordered me a set of the CP 9.5:1cr 87.25mm pistons with HD wrist pins and a skirt coating. The rod bearings were replaced around 5k miles prior so I knew they were going to be okay, and the main bearings had very little wear. So they were able to use standard bore bearings on the crank mains and rod bearings since all they did was the polish the crank journals. I believe they only took .001 off each the head and block to resurface them. Overall a good motor to start out with. They did the majority of the assembly at the machine shop, then I just did the final assembly myself.
All items listed below are brand new and never been ran. All gaskets and seals were replaced with OEM parts.
Bottom End:
-CP Forged Pistons 9.5:1 compression, 87.25mm, Moly Dry Film Skirt Coating
-Lang Racing HD Wrist Pins
-Carillo Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
-ACL Rod Bearings (Standard Size)
-Glyco OEM Main Bearings (Standard Size)
-ARP2000 Main Stud Kit
-OEM Oil Pump Chain Guide Rail/Tensioner
Head
-ARP L19 Head Studs (Stronger than the normal ARP2000 studs)
-Supertech Dual Valve Spring Set with Titanium Retainers
-Turbotoy VANOS Exhaust Hub
-Lang Racing Cam Gear Bolts
-OEM Valve Seals
-Extended Exhaust Manifold Studs
-Timing Chain Tensioner
-Timing Chain Guide Rail
-ECS Stainless Steel VANOS Line
-OEM Head Gasket
Misc
-OEM VANOS Solenoid Pack
-OEM Water Pump
-OEM Thermostat
-OEM Accessory & A/C Belt
-ECS Water Pump Pulley
-OEM Accessory Belt Hydraulic Tensioner and Pulleys
-OEM A/C Belt Tensioner and Pulley
-OEM Front (Throttle Body) Throttle Position Sensor
-OEM Camshaft Position Sensors (Intake & Exhaust)
-OEM Crankshaft Position Sensor
-OEM Oil Level Sensor
-OEM Oil Pressure Switch
-Remanufactured Alternator
-OEM Bosch Ignition Coils
-NGK 6546 Spark Plugs
-OEM Ignition Harness
-Steel Braided AN Line Head Oil Drain Line
-Oil Pressure Switch Adaptor for Turbo Oil Feed Line
-Oil Cooler Adaptor for -10AN Lines
-OEM Pilot Bearing
Machine shop did the following work:
-Clean block
-Resurface block
-align hone main tunnel
-Hone rods
-Hang pistons
-File rings
-Clean and polish crank
-Bore and hone cylinders
-Assemble short block
-Balance rotating assembly
-Valve job
-Resurface head
-Adjust valves
-Install new valve springs
Only parts I can think of that were not replaced are the oil pump, A/C compressor, power steering pump. timing chain, oil pump chain and knock sensors. Wanted to get a new oil pump but I could not get one at the time and the original one looked good. Throttle actuator and IAC valve are not new but were replaced around 10k miles ago prior to the car being boosted.
Mechanical Fan and fan clutch has been removed. It does not come with fuel components, however I many have a stock fuel rail and stock injector set if I can find them. Also have an unmodified wiring harness if needed. Oil pan is tapped for the turbo drain in the location for a Maximum PSI kit. The exhaust manifold and the turbo in the picture are not included. The Secondary Air valve is blocked off as well. Throttle bodies and idle air rail are included. Pretty much everything that is attached to the motor, but not part of the turbo kit or fuel system is included, just ask if you are wondering about a part I didn't list above.
As mentioned, it has never been ran or started, only cranked over briefly a few times, so it will need to be broken in. They told me that with the standard sized bearings, whatever the normal break in procedure is would work, however it would probably be longer than necessary since boost will seat the rings much quicker. The machine shop recommended to just check the compression after this procedure:
-Non-synthetic 5W-30 for start up, keep it slightly above idle for 10 min, then change, just flushes out the assembly lube and other contaminants
-Check compression as a baseline, should be inconsistent since the rings aren't seated yet
-Then AMS Break In oil for 30 miles, keep it below 4k rpm but vary throttle, then change
-Then 10W-60 with a zinc additive for 200 miles, let it see around 5psi boost but under 5k rpm. Do not lug the engine at low rpm either.
-Check compression again and number should be within 5psi of each other, if not drive some more.
-Then change to just 10W-60, should be all set, just flush at 500 miles to get the rest of the contaminants out.
So its not that big of a deal, would take longer to break in the clutch anyway. It has been sitting with 5W-30 non-synthetic oil and coolant in it, as well as being cranked over a few times enough to build oil pressure, so it is not sitting dry. So no rust in the coolant or corrosion anywhere, no leaks anywhere either. Just swap it in your car and do that break in, then you are all set to go.
I have the receipts for almost everything mentioned, at least all the major items. The motor is in the car but I can have it out in a couple days.
I would like to sell the motor before listing the rest of turbo kit for sale but here is the overview of what that ad will include. MaximumPSI kit with a Precision 6266 turbo. Beyond the standard turbo kit, it will include a ProEFI Pro128 Standalone setup with harness and sensors, AEM Boost Controller Solenoid, Dual In-Tank Walbro 485 Fuel Pumps, AN Fuel Lines, Aeromotive FPR, Radium Fuel Rail, and ID1050X Injectors. So this will not be for sale just yet but I would work out a deal for anyone interested in the motor and turbo kit together.
Located in Connecticut
Price: $13,000
Motor originally had just under 100k miles before the rebuild, but I wanted to keep the car only on 93 pump fuel. So my reason for building this motor was so I could run higher boost on pump gas, then it turned into a game of might as well do this while I am in there. Motor was in great shape when it was disassembled, probably could have lasted a while on 10psi in stock form.
All machine work was done by Bryan at Center Auto Machine Shop in Stratford, CT. They are not BMW specialists and do a bit of everything from diesels to 6sec GTR motors. However, he did an S54 cylinder head for the first motor I put together that was in rough shape and it turned out great. So I am confident this motor was built as well as it could be. He said the whole motor looked great. I was going to order 87.5mm pistons since that's all I thought was available but after speaking with Andrew Lang he recommended to get 87.25mm pistons if the bores were straight enough, which they were so he ordered me a set of the CP 9.5:1cr 87.25mm pistons with HD wrist pins and a skirt coating. The rod bearings were replaced around 5k miles prior so I knew they were going to be okay, and the main bearings had very little wear. So they were able to use standard bore bearings on the crank mains and rod bearings since all they did was the polish the crank journals. I believe they only took .001 off each the head and block to resurface them. Overall a good motor to start out with. They did the majority of the assembly at the machine shop, then I just did the final assembly myself.
All items listed below are brand new and never been ran. All gaskets and seals were replaced with OEM parts.
Bottom End:
-CP Forged Pistons 9.5:1 compression, 87.25mm, Moly Dry Film Skirt Coating
-Lang Racing HD Wrist Pins
-Carillo Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
-ACL Rod Bearings (Standard Size)
-Glyco OEM Main Bearings (Standard Size)
-ARP2000 Main Stud Kit
-OEM Oil Pump Chain Guide Rail/Tensioner
Head
-ARP L19 Head Studs (Stronger than the normal ARP2000 studs)
-Supertech Dual Valve Spring Set with Titanium Retainers
-Turbotoy VANOS Exhaust Hub
-Lang Racing Cam Gear Bolts
-OEM Valve Seals
-Extended Exhaust Manifold Studs
-Timing Chain Tensioner
-Timing Chain Guide Rail
-ECS Stainless Steel VANOS Line
-OEM Head Gasket
Misc
-OEM VANOS Solenoid Pack
-OEM Water Pump
-OEM Thermostat
-OEM Accessory & A/C Belt
-ECS Water Pump Pulley
-OEM Accessory Belt Hydraulic Tensioner and Pulleys
-OEM A/C Belt Tensioner and Pulley
-OEM Front (Throttle Body) Throttle Position Sensor
-OEM Camshaft Position Sensors (Intake & Exhaust)
-OEM Crankshaft Position Sensor
-OEM Oil Level Sensor
-OEM Oil Pressure Switch
-Remanufactured Alternator
-OEM Bosch Ignition Coils
-NGK 6546 Spark Plugs
-OEM Ignition Harness
-Steel Braided AN Line Head Oil Drain Line
-Oil Pressure Switch Adaptor for Turbo Oil Feed Line
-Oil Cooler Adaptor for -10AN Lines
-OEM Pilot Bearing
Machine shop did the following work:
-Clean block
-Resurface block
-align hone main tunnel
-Hone rods
-Hang pistons
-File rings
-Clean and polish crank
-Bore and hone cylinders
-Assemble short block
-Balance rotating assembly
-Valve job
-Resurface head
-Adjust valves
-Install new valve springs
Only parts I can think of that were not replaced are the oil pump, A/C compressor, power steering pump. timing chain, oil pump chain and knock sensors. Wanted to get a new oil pump but I could not get one at the time and the original one looked good. Throttle actuator and IAC valve are not new but were replaced around 10k miles ago prior to the car being boosted.
Mechanical Fan and fan clutch has been removed. It does not come with fuel components, however I many have a stock fuel rail and stock injector set if I can find them. Also have an unmodified wiring harness if needed. Oil pan is tapped for the turbo drain in the location for a Maximum PSI kit. The exhaust manifold and the turbo in the picture are not included. The Secondary Air valve is blocked off as well. Throttle bodies and idle air rail are included. Pretty much everything that is attached to the motor, but not part of the turbo kit or fuel system is included, just ask if you are wondering about a part I didn't list above.
As mentioned, it has never been ran or started, only cranked over briefly a few times, so it will need to be broken in. They told me that with the standard sized bearings, whatever the normal break in procedure is would work, however it would probably be longer than necessary since boost will seat the rings much quicker. The machine shop recommended to just check the compression after this procedure:
-Non-synthetic 5W-30 for start up, keep it slightly above idle for 10 min, then change, just flushes out the assembly lube and other contaminants
-Check compression as a baseline, should be inconsistent since the rings aren't seated yet
-Then AMS Break In oil for 30 miles, keep it below 4k rpm but vary throttle, then change
-Then 10W-60 with a zinc additive for 200 miles, let it see around 5psi boost but under 5k rpm. Do not lug the engine at low rpm either.
-Check compression again and number should be within 5psi of each other, if not drive some more.
-Then change to just 10W-60, should be all set, just flush at 500 miles to get the rest of the contaminants out.
So its not that big of a deal, would take longer to break in the clutch anyway. It has been sitting with 5W-30 non-synthetic oil and coolant in it, as well as being cranked over a few times enough to build oil pressure, so it is not sitting dry. So no rust in the coolant or corrosion anywhere, no leaks anywhere either. Just swap it in your car and do that break in, then you are all set to go.
I have the receipts for almost everything mentioned, at least all the major items. The motor is in the car but I can have it out in a couple days.
I would like to sell the motor before listing the rest of turbo kit for sale but here is the overview of what that ad will include. MaximumPSI kit with a Precision 6266 turbo. Beyond the standard turbo kit, it will include a ProEFI Pro128 Standalone setup with harness and sensors, AEM Boost Controller Solenoid, Dual In-Tank Walbro 485 Fuel Pumps, AN Fuel Lines, Aeromotive FPR, Radium Fuel Rail, and ID1050X Injectors. So this will not be for sale just yet but I would work out a deal for anyone interested in the motor and turbo kit together.
Located in Connecticut
Price: $13,000
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