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Carbon Splitters Refurb

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  • karbonkid
    replied
    Carbon Splitter Refurb - take 2

    Thought it was time to give the front splitters another overhaul, although they weren't as bad as the last but with the front bumper being freshly resprayed it would have looked wrong not to have given them some sort of TLC.

    Wont go into much detail as before but I began by wet sanding by hand using a 180-240 grit. Washing off into a clean bucket at regular intervals to clean the surface from contamination and between different paper grade changes. Then I carried out the same procedure with a finer - 400. Then finished with an 800 grit paper.























    The prep work is now done and ready for their top coats.
    I will try & add a few pics of them finished when they are complete...

    Leave a comment:


  • digi
    replied
    Originally posted by karbonkid View Post
    Right.. The best thing to do is get some wet/dry sand paper consisting of 120, 240, 400, 800 & 1200 grits.

    Starting with the 120 and gently rubbing down the coats till all chips are near gone. Then use the 120 grit with a bucket of water (soapy is good) and work in circular motions gently, continue using the 240, 400, 800 & and finally finishing with the 1200. (1200 being the less corse grit) to get the smoothest matt finish.

    Then the next stage is to get it coated with the epoxy resin (top coat). You can do this yourself but for best result like me, send it away to get professionally done. Like I found out the hard way after buying the kit & doing it myself and having to prep again. Contamination and accuracy of resin mix is vital!

    Its best to send away to get treated with a professional environment to work in, free from dust and dirt settling.

    I used a guy called perky. Use my name Alex as reference and mention the CSL splitters and he will know what work to expect if you have completed the sanding prep, ready for him to coat.

    It should cost you around £75+ if you have done the prep, but if you wanted him to do the whole lot he would do.

    Contact him via email: [email protected]
    Mobile: 07731868102
    Top Class writeup. :thumbs: Awesome Alex!!! :notworthy:

    Leave a comment:


  • karbonkid
    replied
    Originally posted by digi View Post
    amazing!!!!

    Could you outline all the necessary steps to achieve your results.

    Outstanding. Great Job! :drool:
    Right.. The best thing to do is get some wet/dry sand paper consisting of 120, 240, 400, 800 & 1200 grits.

    Starting with the 120 and gently rubbing down the coats till all chips are near gone. Then use the 120 grit with a bucket of water (soapy is good) and work in circular motions gently, continue using the 240, 400, 800 & and finally finishing with the 1200. (1200 being the less corse grit) to get the smoothest matt finish.

    Then the next stage is to get it coated with the epoxy resin (top coat). You can do this yourself but for best result like me, send it away to get professionally done. Like I found out the hard way after buying the kit & doing it myself and having to prep again. Contamination and accuracy of resin mix is vital!

    Its best to send away to get treated with a professional environment to work in, free from dust and dirt settling.

    I used a guy called perky. Use my name Alex as reference and mention the CSL splitters and he will know what work to expect if you have completed the sanding prep, ready for him to coat.

    It should cost you around £75+ if you have done the prep, but if you wanted him to do the whole lot he would do.

    Contact him via email: [email protected]
    Mobile: 07731868102

    Leave a comment:


  • digi
    replied
    amazing!!!!

    Could you outline all the necessary steps to achieve your results.

    Outstanding. Great Job! :drool:

    Leave a comment:


  • Ade
    replied
    they look great! :thumbs: Really chuffed with mine that came out with the same results.

    Forget buying new ones unless your old ones are cracked/broken... it seems refurbing these splitters is not a difficult job for those who know how.

    Leave a comment:


  • bryce
    replied
    Good job bud. Need to get mine sorted out.

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  • Andyk
    replied
    They look the dogs...do you want to do mine :whistle:

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  • s.mac
    replied
    Great job Alex :thumbs:

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  • sailorbaz
    replied
    Those are minted mate, I think I'll have to do my O/S one, once I receive my new N/S. Bit scared though, going at them with sandpaper not to mention, applying the lacquer!

    Leave a comment:


  • karbonkid
    replied
    ...Updated.

    Back from top coat and oven treatment. Final results:

    From this:



    To this:









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  • shimmy
    replied
    certainly looks better

    hope it lasts:thumbs:

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  • karbonkid
    replied
    When they are manufactured they are made in a mould correct. Using processes of lamination.
    Its suggested to rub down the coats before applying new coats, being carful not to break into the carbon but smoothing the surface clear from all stone chips, then building the epoxy resin up and put in the oven to cure. Then wet sand and polish to get rid of high spots. A lacquer is optional at this point.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark CSL
    replied
    Originally posted by karbonkid View Post
    Its not lacquer that is applied. Its professional epoxy top coat mixed with hardener to the ratio 2/1. The lacquer is optional to do when you have applied the 2 layers. This way is the way its done by BMW. :thumbs:
    Are you sure that bmw dont use prepreg carbon put on a mould and then put in an autoclave oven :whistle:

    But the way you are doing them is a good solution but the relacquer will do the same job if you dont rub them back to the carbon :thumbs:

    Leave a comment:


  • karbonkid
    replied
    Its not lacquer that is applied. Its professional epoxy top coat mixed with hardener to the ratio 2/1. The lacquer is optional to do when you have applied the 2 layers. This way is the way its done by BMW. :thumbs:

    Leave a comment:


  • Andyk
    replied
    Looks good NZ M3 and some good advice as usual...:thumbs::thumbs:

    Leave a comment:

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