Just to make it clear, I know I don't have a CSL but my issue is identical.
I drove another M3 for a couple of hours yesterday and it reminded me how bad mine had become, even though that one was slurring also at 35k miles but I know its owner lifts...
I've reset it again using DIS, which I have already done fully and correctly three times previous to no affect, except this time I did it with the car stony cold. It was 7 degrees in the garage and the car hasn't been started in 3 days. Previous resets had been with the car warm and one time red hot. I'm no engineer but I'd started to wonder about expansion of parts when hot etc..desperation in all honesty because I'm sick of the car like this.
Full teach in, Clutch Valve Values, Gearbox Adaption (where it finds the gate and all 7 cogs), clutch bite point and finally some acceleration sensor. Then reset the fault code it creates in the SMG DME.
I've driven in 100 miles this afternoon, turned it off n on a few times and let it sit for 2 hours. All in all it is back to normal, I cannot make it slur at all on 3rd to 4th now, whereas before you couldn't stop it. The bang is not quite as big as I have felt but there is absolutely no slur and gear engagement seems to be much quicker. I kept finding myself in a small hole before, now you tell it to change and it is in and home straight away, even on those iffy low rev part throttle shifts.
If its still like this in a weeks time then I'll be happy but this is a big leap over previous attempts which were shit right out of the box:banghead:
Just to make it clear, I know I don't have a CSL but my issue is identical.
I drove another M3 for a couple of hours yesterday and it reminded me how bad mine had become, even though that one was slurring also at 35k miles but I know its owner lifts...
I've reset it again using DIS, which I have already done fully and correctly three times previous to no affect, except this time I did it with the car stony cold. It was 7 degrees in the garage and the car hasn't been started in 3 days. Previous resets had been with the car warm and one time red hot. I'm no engineer but I'd started to wonder about expansion of parts when hot etc..desperation in all honesty because I'm sick of the car like this.
Full teach in, Clutch Valve Values, Gearbox Adaption (where it finds the gate and all 7 cogs), clutch bite point and finally some acceleration sensor. Then reset the fault code it creates in the SMG DME.
I've driven in 100 miles this afternoon, turned it off n on a few times and let it sit for 2 hours. All in all it is back to normal, I cannot make it slur at all on 3rd to 4th now, whereas before you couldn't stop it. The bang is not quite as big as I have felt but there is absolutely no slur and gear engagement seems to be much quicker. I kept finding myself in a small hole before, now you tell it to change and it is in and home straight away, even on those iffy low rev part throttle shifts.
If its still like this in a weeks time then I'll be happy but this is a big leap over previous attempts which were shit right out of the box:banghead:
hello mate what is the DIS reset and how do you do it??
i am in the exact same position that you are in mate my car is a 03 plate with 32k on the clock and having exact same problems as your first thread!
I've reset it again using DIS, which I have already done fully and correctly three times previous to no affect, except this time I did it with the car stony cold.
The SMG training manual actually specifies that the car should be warm when the values are reset .. although I tend to agree that the difference is more noticeable when recalibration is done when the car is cold (I've tried both on the Autoenginuity and you definitely get a better result with the car cold).
The DIS is part of the BMW GT1 test system (I believe in this case a bootleg version from ebay :supz
Ok, so it impoved a lot but slowly some very slight slur is returning.
NZ_M3:
There is an option in there called 'reset clutch curves', do you have any knowledge? It appears to say do this when you fit a new clutch after the teach in. I stupidly hit this button many months ago and now I'm wondering about its function.
It would be very dumb but does the car actually have a preset, fixed, clutch wear curve that is uses to adapt and of course by clearing it there is no way to recover? (I.e I actually need to tell it that my clutch is half worn; impossible to do)
In my case a damn good reason to stay away from eBay:whistle:
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