Intrax 1k2 vs KW Clubsport

[shimmy]

...




55K now matey and fine. I might change back to std suspension just to see how much of a diffeence the intrax makes...,

I changed back for a month to OEM suspension Nords and tbh it is a very well put together bit of kit, especially those Sachs shocks

on the road it is very good

[NZ_M3]

I changed back for a month to OEM suspension Nords and tbh it is a very well put together bit of kit, especially those Sachs shocks

on the road it is very good

Have to say I agree .. . I am contemplating on going back to OEM setup (actually have started running stock rear springs already :hahaha and this is after a number of years on the AC Schnitzer setup.

Last track day gave me the opportunite to go for a ride in a completely stock standard CSL and fXck me I was impressed with how composed and well balanced the stock system was (I have long forgotten what the stock car felt like) - whilst it wasn't as quick lap time wise, it was certainly lot more controllable and predicatable - also seem lot easier to slide around and catch if one felt so inclined.:supz:

I've honestly hit a wall with my current setup already and have not made up my mind what to go to next .. the stock system is hard to beat - I might get one of the local Koni outfitter to valve a custom double adjustable for me based on the stockers but with upwards tunability.

[Thorney]

Cant beat OEM for the road, we dont even try.

For track there are loads of options now, some good, some not so good, some with warranty, some with none, choice is yours. Personally I find Intrax too hard for UK's roads, KW hard to recommend with no warranty, Nitron very good, Moton stunning but very expensive.

Oh and looking at race cars as an indication of choice can be a little flawed, there are lots of race cars with a sticker on but others suspension (ask Andy Priaux - 3 x WTCC Champion on Motons but stickers from other on the car all three years). Some suspension manuafacturers are very agressive here, lots of free kits offered to lots of race teams = lots of suspension on cars. Free does not always = best. We pay full whack for the Moton and Nitrons on our Cup cars, bloody expensive but worth it. Moton do now do a road/track kit, single and two way adjustable.

[_Nathan_]

Interesting that you find Intrax 1k2 too hard - they can be set softer than OEM with appropriate spring rates. The whole point of the Intrax & Ohlins philosophy is softer spring rates and better damping to allow you to take loads of kurb without upsetting the balance of the car.

Motons are very, very good, but a different price bracket all together than the dampers being talked about here, Ohlins TTX at £4k+ a corner is also awesome and just as relevant to answering the question :thumbs:

[Thorney]

Interesting that you find Intrax 1k2 too hard - they can be set softer than OEM with appropriate spring rates. The whole point of the Intrax & Ohlins philosophy is softer spring rates and better damping to allow you to take loads of kurb without upsetting the balance of the car.

Motons are very, very good, but a different price bracket all together than the dampers being talked about here, Ohlins TTX at £4k+ a corner is also awesome and just as relevant to answering the question :thumbs:

Different horse for different courses I guess, I tend to go by what I'm asked to achieve. In the last few weeks we've have 2 CSL's and 1 M3 with Intrax on and the owners all wanted a more 'progressive' ride and more grip from the rear. We softened it up as best we could and it did improve both the ride and the rear end grip on the road but each came back and said after driving it on their own roads (MK is pretty good road wise) that it was still too hard. Certainly my test route home starts off on smooth MK tarmac and a track setting on KW's/Motons/Intrax all works well, but the moment I get to the crap B roads near where I live and all but the Motons leave the ride near on impossible to live with, hence a compromised set up is needed. IMO Intrax dampers are set too stiff in the range but one mans meat is another mans murder.

Motons have come down in price a lot, road/track single adjustable are now £2600 down from £4k from a few years back but agree they are above everyone else in terms of cost. C'est la vie I guess.

[_Nathan_]

What spring rates were they running on the rear and what rates did you try?

Interesting that Moton have come down that much, thought they were still silly money.

[Thorney]

Three different rates on the three cars. I'm sure we could spend more time on it via softer springs of course but didn't have the chance as each car was booked in for a single day. Intrax just have a different view on things thats all, Henk likes to run stiffer damping and softer springs and we tend to prefer the opposite but its horses for courses. We run very stiff springs in the Cup cars to the extent that KW and even Moton said they were too stiff but they seem to work pretty well, we run softer damping as a result and it means the cars run kerbs well which is a similar requirement to road cars running on bumpy surfaces.

[_Nathan_]

Any idea of what rates? Interesting for me as I honestly found that when I was running a soft spring rate on the rear there was more traction than with OEM suspension, you could feel the weight transfer to the rear of the car which just isn't there to the same extent with a stiffer rear setup.

[Curly]

Any idea of what rates? Interesting for me as I honestly found that when I was running a soft spring rate on the rear there was more traction than with OEM suspension, you could feel the weight transfer to the rear of the car which just isn't there to the same extent with a stiffer rear setup.

Ditto

[Thorney]

Any idea of what rates? Interesting for me as I honestly found that when I was running a soft spring rate on the rear there was more traction than with OEM suspension, you could feel the weight transfer to the rear of the car which just isn't there to the same extent with a stiffer rear setup.

That makes sense, we found with the spring set up that there was we softened it up as much as we could on the damping and it improved but we couldnt go far enough, hence we thought the springs were too stiff. I've got them written down on the job card will have a look.

[DuncanR]

Intrax 4-way here, and no Nathan, you cant have them in exchange for your 2 ways !!:hahaha:. Whilst the 4-ways are to some degree wasted on me,(some might say the whole fookin car is !!) due to lack of experience which i openly admit to, Im just back from the Ring where it was a snow,hail and rain blizzard for a few laps on Thursday last, and I didnt fall off. On the dry days riding the odd kerb again all seemed to be working ok. Whilst my inexperience precludes me from posting any meaningful comment regarding setup, I can comment on the build quality, and ease of use. Mine hadnt been touched since last year (other than when you adjusted the ride height John) but I when I did adjust them a couple of days ago to some settings which I cant for the life of me remember the scource of :whistle:, I was pleasantly surprised to find that given all the winter crap and dirt that they had been subjected to, all the adjusters worked fine, and with nice positive clicks, mine are Titanium though, so I suppose that does help. Henks always helpful on the phone whenever I have rung him as well.

[Nords]

Ditto

Curley, what was MD53 set up with, can you remember?

I can live with the stiffness (I call it feedback), on the road, adjusting the full range of clicks makes only a 'little' difference, much more noticable on track.

After driving Baf's Gen 1 997RS, I felt the front of the CSL 'bobbed' alot, however I don't notice it now. His 997 is running JZM suspension with remote damping units.

[Curly]

Nords for the road the front 20-22 out from max and the rear 25-27 out from max hope that helps bud if its bobbing up and down on them settings just give simpsons a call to check

[Thorney]

Curley, what was MD53 set up with, can you remember?

I can live with the stiffness (I call it feedback), on the road, adjusting the full range of clicks makes only a 'little' difference, much more noticable on track.

After driving Baf's Gen 1 997RS, I felt the front of the CSL 'bobbed' alot, however I don't notice it now. His 997 is running JZM suspension with remote damping units.

If its bouncing at the front then increase your rebound damping.

[Curly]

Rebound and compression are the same clicker on intrax,nords it never bounced about when i had it on those settings