Ok
So after reading many posts on this it seems to result in the following;
The guys who have witnessed high (and i mean towrds red line) water temps ON TRACK after 4-5 laps ususally in warm weather, have chased down various water cooling faults but never managed to fix. People have changed stat, pump, rads, sensors but seems no joy.
So let us presume for a minute that water temp highs are a symptom and not a cause of the problem!
I have found a few poeple post that they have solved the issue by replacing coils. injectors or sensors that are cusing they presume hig cylinder temps probably due to running lean due to these faulty bits. Thorney also has said on another forum that degrading coils or injectors could cause the high temps on track.
So come on guys, thoughts please!!:smt055
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Originally posted by shimmy View PostDo any of you techinical gurus know if the engine temp (rising to red on track after 4-5 laps) and throttle irregularity (at various points) could e caused or linked by something (sensor)
I had throttle sensor changed after Spa limp mode, and exhasut sensor changed more recently?
Thats funny because i had my exhaust temp sensor replaced today at bmw and whilst on my way home i noticed the coolant level moving towards 2/3 area whilst in slow moving traffic, its not done that since i had viscous fan change
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Technical guru help
Do any of you techinical gurus know if the engine temp (rising to red on track after 4-5 laps) and throttle irregularity (at various points) could e caused or linked by something (sensor)
I had throttle sensor changed after Spa limp mode, and exhasut sensor changed more recently?
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Noticed my water temp needle move for the first time over the weekend at the Ring. It shifted to the right of middle (normal) operating temp.
Oil temps were as per the norm for Ring use (around 115-120 degrees)
Ambient air temps at the track were between 25-30 degrees Celsius.
Car performed as normal.
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This is a big factor. The amount of insects and general s**t stuck in the fins of the rad, air con rad, oil cooler will have an effect. A rad removal and good clean will help.Originally posted by shimmy View Postno idea.....
but it think oil cooler and new water rad is a good first effort to solve the problem
my water rad looks like it has ben trough the gulf war on the front! could easily be reduced performance tbh
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mine checked by bmw with no prob.....so i choose the oil cooler first:thumbs:
the size from vac is 11'x11' (27cm x 27 cm = 729 cm²), to have the same cooling area from mocal (think automotive), it must be the 23,5 cm x 34 cm (44 row)= 799 cm², isn't it too big ??:smt017
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no idea.....
but it think oil cooler and new water rad is a good first effort to solve the problem
my water rad looks like it has ben trough the gulf war on the front! could easily be reduced performance tbh
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ok, so what should be the best size for the oil cooler ??
is 235mm x 235 mm ok ?
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Hi,
7.77- I believe the Turner Part number is the
BMW Part number.
When you order the part just double check that its
the ''S50/54 Tropical Thermostat @55 Degrees.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
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this part number seems to be a bmw number, could you confirm ?? if not, what is the bmw part number for the 55° stat ?Originally posted by The Gorilla View PostHi,
Part Number for the 55 degree Water Stat at Turners is-
11531417215, although I have purchased 2 from the
local dealer, as it is a BMW part.
.
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sorry, i'm back from holidays ans a ring trip.
it stills overheat even after changing the fan coupling and the stat.
I have just noticed the overheating was just after a hard braking. i have tried to stay at full throttle during the overheating (don't panic, i just consider it overheats when the needle is beginning to climb the gauge, but i have never been near the red zone), and the temp just go down to normal temp....if there is a straight line long enough.
I have notice the overheating arrived when i was using pagid pads, no problem before with standart pads. I use to lost my front bmw wheel badges on tracks, and when i recovered one, it was jsut burnt !!! any chance to have the braking heat climbing under the hood ????? there is no brake duct in a csl, when i hardly use my car on public roads (:whistle
, it never overheats.......when i hardly brake, and after i'm on full throttle, it overheats !!
the explaination of "the gorilla" seems good about the stat, why not trying ??
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I take on board what you state, you sound like an educated person and i appreciate your experience.Originally posted by The Gorilla View PostHi,
Lawsy- I did not think I was contradicting myself,
I was trying to get across the point that on shorter
Circuits etc, engine load is usually higher hence the
oil cooling is insufficiunet and the water temp will creep
up due to this.
On more open type Power circuits, engine load can decrease
slightly but oil temp can remain high
although the water temp can periodically drop to a point where the std
water thermostat closes, which is not good.
Point was, that increasing Oil cooling capacity and ensuring
that the water thermostat stays open, greatly assists with
keeping fluid temps in their operating range when using
the car on Track.
With regard Data, I have a DL1 in my Car but I have not used in ages.
Bealo- increasing the size of the oil cooler or fitting a piggy back
type cooler, is quite straight forward, use the Turner or Vac Oil
cooler adapter take off kit, and then you can use whatever size
lines and run them where you want.
Changing the water stat is a five minute job, but if your car is
also a road car that see winter use in the UK, keep the std
stat and put in back in for the winter period, as it will
help with internal heater / blower.
Part Number for the 55 degree Water Stat at Turners is-
11531417215, although I have purchased 2 from the
local dealer, as it is a BMW part.
Part number at Turners for the Oil hose take off adapter is-
TEN9910200. Vac also do this kit.
www.turnermotorsport.com
I would guess that many of the S54 Race cars run the
std outer thermostat 'ring' to ensure correct water circulation
but have removed the stat itself, unless regs state otherwise.
On my own Car I have converted to an Oil / Water heat
exchanger and use the air cooled oil cooler as back up.
You guys with cars with warranties would more than likely have
them invalidated, so no use to you.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
The Gorilla.
I agree with your views on the oil cooler and the stat.
I was a little bit worried about my oil temps being so high, esp after coming from my 450bhp tuned evo, which showed about 100c oil temps on track.
Thank you for your views and advice, part numbers etc:thumbs:
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Thanks :thumbs:Originally posted by The Gorilla View PostHi,
Ade- 55 Degree water thermostat from the dealer
is around the 90.00 ish plus Vat.
Installation, is about 15/20 mins Job.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
My car is at the dealer right now, so I'll ask them to have a look at it whilst there.
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Hi,
Ade- 55 Degree water thermostat from the dealer
is around the 90.00 ish plus Vat.
Installation, is about 15/20 mins Job.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
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