Yeah, it's dirty. Deal with it. (56k don't bother)

[m3f_fiveightandten]

I don't exactly know what you mean by "metering", but I will look into it. Thanks for the referral, I will look into it!

The camera measures the light in the area you're shooting. We call this metering. It has a few different modes for doing this, and it will do different things with that information depending on what mode you're in.


Ie. If you're in Av mode, the camera will meter the light for you and use that information to set the shutter speed. You can have a little control over this by using the exposure comp feature to fine tune things.


If you're in manual mode, it will meter the light, but not use that information to alter the settings of the camera. It *will* crosscheck what it knows with your camera settings and determine whether or not you're doing a good job. Take a look at the exposure scale (-2, -1, 0, 1, 2,)...there will be an arrow there. If the arrow is on 0, it thinks your settings are optimal for the light it's metering. If it's reading "2", it thinks you're overexposed. You may choose to give yourself a quicker shutter speed (the arrow will move down closer to 0). You may also choose to ignore its recommendations.


Play around with the different metering modes. Spot metering is very helpful for certain things, but other times you do want to use evaluative metering, or the center-weighted average mode, ect. They all have their place.

[m3f_tectonic]

Real men use manual



Not feeling the ambers or chrome grills. Then again I bought my car with smoked clears and black grill.

[m3f_slickfast]

The camera measures the light in the area you're shooting. We call this metering. It has a few different modes for doing this, and it will do different things with that information depending on what mode you're in.



Ie. If you're in Av mode, the camera will meter the light for you and use that information to set the shutter speed. You can have a little control over this by using the exposure comp feature to fine tune things.



If you're in manual mode, it will meter the light, but not use that information to alter the settings of the camera. It *will* crosscheck what it knows with your camera settings and determine whether or not you're doing a good job. Take a look at the exposure scale (-2, -1, 0, 1, 2,)...there will be an arrow there. If the arrow is on 0, it thinks your settings are optimal for the light it's metering. If it's reading "2", it thinks you're overexposed. You may choose to give yourself a quicker shutter speed (the arrow will move down closer to 0). You may also choose to ignore its recommendations.





Play around with the different metering modes. Spot metering is very helpful for certain things, but other times you do want to use evaluative metering, or the center-weighted average mode, ect. They all have their place.

I will definitely play around with that... thanks buddy!

[m3f_EMAXX]

I think you need to clean your car...

[m3f_slickfast]

I think you need to clean your car...

Oh Eugene, you left your face open again. Would you like me to shut it for you?

[m3f_EMAXX]

Oh Eugene, you left your face open again. Would you like me to shut it for you?

In all seriousness though, gorgeous car. I love that color!

[m3f_slickfast]

In all seriousness though, gorgeous car. I love that color!

Thanks man, I really like it. The only problem is it's incredibly hard to capture it's purpleness in photo's, hence the ridiculous saturations in these photos. It's so much better in person!

[m3f_rowar64]

I don't exactly know what you mean by "metering", but I will look into it. Thanks for the referral, I will look into it!

Nick did a pretty good job of explaining it...

Even simpler...when shooting look through your viewfinder at the brightest area in the background (again, not the sun or something overtly bright and unnatural). Lightly depress your shutter release to show your settings then adjust your aperture and shutter speed, but don't shoot and don't necessarily bother with focusing. When you've got the settings/readings you want bring the camera down to your subject (again keeping the shutter release activated), focus on your subject and shoot.


This makes darker cars (and even very bright one) just pop...below is a pic I took of my 96 cosmos (not trying to jack your thread by any means)...on a late evening one day. Black is hard to shoot as well but by using the right techniques (oh...and a tripod!) you can get some nice results. Post processing was minimal with PS...think I just darkened the sky a little..It's hard to get black to show nicely, let alone in low light conditions....

[m3f_tectonic]

Thanks man, I really like it. The only problem is it's incredibly hard to capture it's purpleness in photo's, hence the ridiculous saturations in these photos. It's so much better in person!

I find it easier to capture the color under overcast sky's

[m3f_EMAXX]

Thanks man, I really like it. The only problem is it's incredibly hard to capture it's purpleness in photo's, hence the ridiculous saturations in these photos. It's so much better in person!

It's one of the few rare colors I've seen in person.

[m3f_anarekist]

try taking pics in the afternoon.

[m3f_slickfast]

Are any of these calendar worthy? I do like the side shot and rear quarter shot. Let me know what you guys think. Man, now I REALLY wish it wasn't dirty for the shoot.

[m3f_Yarberrymt]

Nice shots.





That looks exactly like my car did when I bought it.

[m3f_Cheese Dog]

ambers FTW.., don't be tempted to join the dark side.

I think clears look terrible. I also have a Techno Violet and I bought it with clears on it... Tried to let them grow on me but ugh... As soon as I put the ambers back on it made the car look so much more beautiful. The amber is a nice contrast to the Techno.