Just checked, my manual didn't say anything about the valet feature.
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E36 factory alarm upgrade w/ pics
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wemember in the link above did it diff..
the way i show is you dont have to drop the glove box and the wiring is diff.
I found the way to get one chirp on alrm with one flash
and two chrips with two flashes.
this is because the light flash on e36 is triggered by the flasher(or hazards)
the sirens quick chirp gives enough to pulse the harzards to get a flash.
doesnt effect full alarm flashing and you dont need diodes the alarm has internal diodes
NICE write up and pics but i think the way i have did it works better.
its even noted in the post someone did it my way
also it is an OE or factory alarm. and most 328 and m cars come with it as an option. NOT just EURO spec.. some 325
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Good writeup.Originally posted by eisnerracingwemember in the link above did it diff..
the way i show is you dont have to drop the glove box and the wiring is diff.
I found the way to get one chirp on alrm with one flash
and two chrips with two flashes.
this is because the light flash on e36 is triggered by the flasher(or hazards)
the sirens quick chirp gives enough to pulse the harzards to get a flash.
doesnt effect full alarm flashing and you dont need diodes the alarm has internal diodes
NICE write up and pics but i think the way i have did it works better.
its even noted in the post someone did it my way
also it is an OE or factory alarm. and most 328 and m cars come with it as an option. NOT just EURO spec.. some 325
The main difference between my method and yours, as you mentioned, is this: Since my hazards are wired to flash when power is sent from the alarm brain to the locks, it results in a single, somewhat longer flash of the hazards for both lock and unlock. Your hazards are wired to flash when power is sent from the alarm brain to the siren, resulting in a very short pulse of the hazard lights.
Also, as mentioned in my DIY, most people won't have to pull the glovebox as long as their alarm brain is sitting right above the lower kick panel like it should be. I took mine out just because I didn't completely know what I was dealing with.
I don't want to sound like I'm knocking your write-up, it's a good DIY. Neither way really is better, it basically just comes down to personal opinion of what you want to see your hazards do when you lock and unlock your car.
For reference, this is what it looks like when done your way:
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=VID00004.flv
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHt5oK9VlWw
And that is what it looks like when done my way.
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you are right either way..
and i didnt think i would meet the author.. good job on pics
i did mine and figured i would give a shot.
been installing so long i havent had to teach anyone in a while.
but you are right with the flash pattern.
just for me as a long time installer aftermarker alarms give one chirp one flash ARM
two chirps two flashes DISARM
so i found a way to do the same with bmw alarms since they are alpine close to the old 8040 and 8035 / 8036 the light flash was negitive and instead of bmw adding two relays for left right parking lights they used the negitive input on the hazzards.
i do wish the factory had the purple second siren output wire.
this wire only has output when triggered like the alpine aftermarket but you cant win them all.
cool vids also..
im new to the forum thing and didnt think anyone has done this.. im going to do the problem with fogs shutting off when high beems are on..
i hav already done the low beam fix all four burn in high beam
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That would be great, I'd love to see a good DIY for that. There's one on bf.c but I'm a little hesitant to do it since the author burned up a wire the first time he did it (said he hooked the connection up wrong/backwards or something).Originally posted by eisnerracingim new to the forum thing and didnt think anyone has done this.. im going to do the problem with fogs shutting off when high beems are on..
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Originally posted by roarfThat would be great, I'd love to see a good DIY for that. There's one on bf.c but I'm a little hesitant to do it since the author burned up a wire the first time he did it (said he hooked the connection up wrong/backwards or something).Originally posted by eisnerracingim new to the forum thing and didnt think anyone has done this.. im going to do the problem with fogs shutting off when high beems are on..

You need to break the above D connection and ground X44 pin 4. One way would be to disconnect the .35 RT/WS wire from high beam relay pin 7 and then ground the wire.
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