You don't need to, a spring does not loose it's properties unless it's stretched beyond it's limits. Re use the old one and call it a day.
Originally posted by das borgen
that spring is one time use...if you remove, it'll disitegrate.....replace it
Now I am confused. Two different answers, I think?
So I will ask, when the clutch pedal is removed is it difficult to remove the spring and replace? I am assuming not after watching Nick's video. For $1.28 I will just replace it while I am in there, just because.
Now I am confused. Two different answers, I think?
So I will ask, when the clutch pedal is removed is it difficult to remove the spring and replace? I am assuming not after watching Nick's video. For $1.28 I will just replace it while I am in there, just because.
that s a buck-twenty-eight you'll never see again.................. don t replace it, it's fine. Even it s that s cheap, it s just stupid to replace things for no other good reason than to replace it for the sake of replacing it...but it s your money. Would you replace an electrical connector (they're just as cheap) just because you're replacing the part it connects to?
The job is super easy. I did mine in about an hour total. The only caveat is that even though I replaced the entire pedal, plus every single ancillary spring, guide, plunger, clip, and bushing, used AKG delrin bushings and followed instructions to the letter, my pedal still leans a little. Pedal feel is much better, but lets face it. Plastic clutch pedals are just a really really cheap component when you're talking about a BMW that was the top of the 3-series line in the '90s.
I just installed new delrin bushings last night. The car was getting to be a chore to drive. Pressing the clutch took a lot of force and it squeaked horribly. I would not drive the car and instead, opt for my tundra just so I wouldn't have to deal with the M3.
Not anymore. Night and day difference. I realized I do need to get a new pedal though because this one is definitely warped, but the new bushings made the force needed to push the pedal much much less and with no squeaks, its a joy to drive again. Funny how something so simple can make the fun come back. I am going to put new shifter bushings in sometime soon as well, but the fun is back!
Aren't most people going with Mason pedals now? I'm sure that wasn't even an option when this thread was made...
And what are the pros and cons of Delrin vs Copper bushings?
I have used both and not noticed any difference. I ran a Ron Stygar hand reamed pedal with delrin bushings from 2007-2016 without issue. I changed it as preventative maintenance because I was getting rid of the Ron Stygar Z3 spring I put in back then. I went to bimmerbaum copper bushings on a new pedal a month or so ago. Did not notice any difference.
I have a very heavy duty clutch in my 99M3 -- it holds 600 lbs rwtq (might even be making more than that), and the pedal effort was beginning to bother me. When I went to the Stygar bushings, I got rid of the over center helper spring and used the Z3 spring. That worked fine with the stock clutch and with an AA LTW flywheel and HD clutch that I ran with the supercharger. I later went turbo and needed a stronger clutch and the pedal effort was higher so I added the over center helper spring. I recently decided that was not enough and got rid of the Z3 spring. I now have just the over center helper spring. Full circle on this one. On my 08M3, I got rid of the over center helper spring and have just the side spring and it works great with the factory clutch.
Have not tried a Mason pedal. I like Mason stuff. I would probably buy all his braces first. I have just the basic rear brace.
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