Anyone install updated Meyle RTAB's?

[m3f_epj3]

I bought OEM rtab's (meyle, from bimmerworld) and simply could not get them in the trailing arm. I have a good install tool, they simply will not press in. One "half" gets hung up and never presses in the arm. Anyone successfully install the updated meyle RTAB's without the expensive BMW install tool?



Here's the thing - meyle and lemforder RTAB's are slightly different. The split on the meyle is huge compared to the lemforder. Top is meyle, bottom lemforder.

[m3f_///M3 Madness]

Obiban was going to help with an install of mine until I mentioned they are OEM w/ limiters. Besides the RTAB tool, a separate tool is also required for preloading, which he didn't have. That is most likely your issue vice the bushing.



I'll have to take it to a shop.

[m3f_alanil]

Obiban was going to help with an install of mine until I mentioned they are OEM w/ limiters. Besides the RTAB tool, a separate tool is also required for preloading, which he didn't have. That is most likely your issue vice the bushing.



I'll have to take it to a shop.

I can't recall what brand I used when replacing mine. They were definitely OEM style.



I had a similar issue. The RTAB kept on going in crooked and would get stuck.



I ended up using a thick metal plate with hole drilled in the center to equalize the pressure across the top of the RTAB when pressing it into the trailing arm.

[m3f_BleedsBlue]

I've got a Lemforder updated RTAB in my room I need to install. You guys need to stop scurring me.

[m3f_alanil]

I've got a Lemforder updated RTAB in my room I need to install. You guys need to stop scurring me.

Those SOBs take a lot of force to remove and install. Polys are MUCH easier to install, too bad someone can't design an OEM type bushing that doesn't require pressing and care to avoid preloading.

[m3f_BleedsBlue]

Those SOBs take a lot of force to remove and install. Polys are MUCH easier to install, too bad someone can't design an OEM type bushing that doesn't require pressing and care to avoid preloading.

Yeah, but I've read too much about the advantages of OEM. I'll deal with the install.

[m3f_camdinans3]

AKG rtabs are poly but a softer durometer rating than powerflex. sounds like you guys need to give those a look, they are easier to install than oem/limiters and from what i gather, are less harsh than typical poly is.

[m3f_EricSMG]

I think you got it backwards, actually. The larger "split" are the Lems, iirc... as I purchased and installed a set myself in the garage without the fancy tool.



The KEY is using two SS hose clamps to compress the two halves together, which allows the bushing to press in with a simple pusher tool. Without the clamps it would be impossible to install them.



BTW - they kick ass... very tight.... and I'm not using shims.

[m3f_CodyLtr]

Just go poly. Simple as that.

[m3f_epj3]

I think you got it backwards, actually. The larger "split" are the Lems, iirc... as I purchases and installed a set myself in the garage without the fancy tool.



The KEY is using two SS hose clamps to compress the two halves together, which allows the bushing to press in with a simple pusher tool. Without the clamps it would be impossible to install them.



BTW - they kick ass... very tight.... and I'm not using shims.

That's a good idea - I may give that a try next weekend, otherwise I'm scrapping the OEM's.

[m3f_BleedsBlue]

Just go poly. Simple as that.

Yeah

[m3f_EricSMG]

That's a good idea - I may give that a try next weekend, otherwise I'm scrapping the OEM's.

Whatever the brand, the small split worries me as you may not be able to compress the two halves enough to get the bushing in. That said, as long as you can get the bushing started by hand, you should be fine. The clamps are there to keep the halves from wanting to spread.



Also, you WILL need a grade 8 threaded rod and nut for installation.

[m3f_BleedsBlue]

So... my Lemforder is updated and has the metal around the rubber, but no split at all

[m3f_hencini]

The KEY is using two SS hose clamps to compress the two halves together, which allows the bushing to press in with a simple pusher tool. Without the clamps it would be impossible to install them.

I would have said to use some really hefty zip ties-- although getting them compressed and zip tied might have been tough. The hose clamps are a much better solution; I'm just surprised they stay together against the force of the expanding rubber...

[m3f_fiveightandten]

Put a hose clamp (or 2) around the bushing to keep it together while you press it in. That will prevent it from moving around as much and separating.


If you find one side sliding in more than the other, put a block of wood on the edge of the casing and tap the other side with a hammer that way until they even up. A C-clamp placed on one side will work as well.


Also, make sure you're pressing it in the right way. If I recall correctly, the space in the trailing arm is tapered on one side to allow for easier installation. I know it's tapered for the balljoints. I can't recall for sure if the hole for the RTAB's is as well, but i'm pretty sure that's the case. Installing is on the non-tapered side would make your life exceedingly more difficult.