BMW 1999 E36 M3 – How To Change Transmission “Detent Pin” Bushings
Symptoms are Hard to Shift into Gear and/or Shifter Wobbles While In Gear and Can Even Pop Out of Gear.
First of all I want to thank everyone on this forum that helped with the Reverse / 5th Gear Lean problem, and those that have posted DIY’s and How To’s.
GREAT JOB !!!
Since I got so much help and information from this forum, I thought I owe it to the BMW community to write up my first How To on changing what I call the transmission “Detent Pin” Bushings (this is the 3rd hole on the right that is sunk down lower than the 5th and Reverse pins and everyone asks “what is the 3rd hole for”)
This picture shows Reverse on the top left, 5th on bottom left, and the “Detent” Pin is the one on the right. I already removed the 5th and Reverse bushings, and was just about to remove the bushings inside the hole on the right. If you look closely there are actually 2 separate little bushings. You can see the 2 bushing better on a picture further down in this posting.
When I did my 5th / Reverse Gear Shift Gate Bushing, I figured I would do the infamous 3rd Bushing too. I did not know why, but on all the write ups I found, no one seems to do the 3rd Bushing and I could not find a definite answer to what its called. So if anyone knows the official name for this pin, please post it.
For starters here are some links that helped me with the 5th / Reverse Gear Lean problem and the Shifting Fork Catch Pins (the 3 pins on the top of the transmission) They are very helpful and include part numbers too. Thanks to the authors of these posts!
Great How To for Removing the Transmission:
http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplass...rem_trans.html
Great How To for the Shift Pins, and 5th / Reverse Gear Bushings:
http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplass...hift_pins.html
You might want to check out your Shift Lever and refresh some of the parts/bushings on it as well, since you will have the Transmission out already.
Here is a How To on the Shift Lever Removal / Installation and Refreshing Bushing etc:
http://pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarti...t_Bushings.htm
Some more Transmission / Clutch / Shift Bushings posts that helped me with nice big pictures.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=342305
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=339092
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=256391
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1702975
If you need the 5 Drifts that are used to install the 5th, Reverse, and Shift Pins, these posts have some people who will loan/rent them to you.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=362566
http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/e36-m3...ent-tools.html
Ok, here is my experience that I want to share, and hope it helps at least one person out there to make their E36 shift much better, quit wobbling, and stay in gear.
After removing the 5th and Reverse gear bushings, mentioned above, I removed the blue cap for the infamous 3rd hole. Come to find out the bushing in the 3rd hole is much different than the ones for 5th and Reverse. The pin and bushings are about half the size and the pin has a roller at the end of it. From what I can tell this is what keeps your Shifter Lever in gear and not want to shake and pop out of gear.
Here is a picture of the 3 holes. Note the one of the right has 2 small bushings inside. Along with the pin that goes inside with a roller at the end of it.
See Diagram
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...25&hg=23&fg=15
Part number 7 is the bushing you need for the 3rd hole. You will need 2 of these bushings. Realoem refers to them as Slide Bearings, but I will them bushings.
Slide Bearing – (Inside Dia X Outside Dia X Length in mm = 12X14X10) - 23-11-7-533-394
For size reference:
#6 is the bushing for the 5th and Reverse Pins
Slide Bearing – (16X18X25) – 23-11-7-533-395
You do not need this part as it already comes in the kit# 23-22-7-542-726 which is listed as one of the parts you need in the 5th / Reverse How To instructions.
Also see
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...29&hg=23&fg=15
Parts #16, 15, 10, and 9 show the pin, spring, cap and locking ring (snap ring) for the 3rd hole.
Check for wear on the pin and roller of part #16.
Replace part#16 and the spring #15 as necessary.
My pin was in good condition and the roller felt smooth with no visible wear, so I opted not to replace it, or the spring.
Note: The roller on pin #16 rides along the detents of the Selector Shaft (part #1). This is the same shaft at the end of the transmission that your Shifter Lever hooks to.
Before I removed my Transmission, my Shifter was hard to put into 1st gear and also used to shake and wobble when it was in 1st and 2nd gear, and even popped out of gear a few times, OUCH. After seeing how stuck my 3rd pin was, I understand why it wanted to pop out of gear. The pin was not doing its job and resting in one of the detents on the Selector Shaft. So the Shifter Lever was able to shake itself out of gear.
Out of the 3 pins (5th, Reverse gear, Detent pin), my Detent pin was by far the hardest to get out and was really stuck in the bushings.
To get this pin out I found a long wood screw, about 3 in long, that I screwed into the little hole on the inside of the pin where the spring goes. I then used a couple of screw drivers on the head of the screw to pry the pin out of the hole. (sorry no pictures of this). I assume a slide hammer would also work, but I did not have one available with a screw attachment.
Once out, I saw the 2 small bushings (23-11-7-533-394), one about ¼ inch inside the hole and the other about 1 ¼ inch inside the hole. Measure the depth before pulling your bushings out. I used dial calipers as shown in this picture to measure the depth of each bushing.
Pulling the Bushings - This method can also be used to pull the 5th and Reverse Gear bushings.
I used a Blind Hole Bushing Puller, as shown here, to remove the bushings. Check your local auto parts store. They usually have special tools to rent/loan. I rented mine at Autozone.
The first bushing came out easy, the 2nd one was so far inside the hole that the puller would not reach in far enough to grab the back of the bushing. After a few attempts of trying to get the inner bushing out, I finally tightened the 2 nuts on the puller attachment really tight, which spreads out the jaws, so that it basically dug its jaws into the inside of the bushing. Now I had enough bite on the bushing to use the slide hammer to start removing it. Once it was half way out, I was able to re-adjust the puller so it grabbed behind the bushing and knocked it out the rest of the way.
This shows a picture trying to get the inner bushing out. Note the tool bottoms out on the hole of the transmission.
This picture shows the inner bushing after I finally got it out.
Once I got the bushings out, I cleaned up the hole and then installed the 2 new bushings seen here. Old ones are on top. New ones are on the bottom.
Bushing Part number: 23-11-7-533-394
I had a buddy make another drift to install the small bushings for the Detent Pin.
Here are the dimensions (for my transmission) if someone wants to make their own. I also attached the drawing to download.
Note: Drawing is to scale.
Installing the Bushings:
Put one of the new bushings on the end of the drift as shown.
I choose to orient the split of the bushing so it points toward the top or bottom of the transmission, due to the forward and backwards force on the detent pin. Then hammer in the inner bushing until the drift bottoms out on the lip of the drift (about 1.25 inch), a dead blow hammer or similar rubber hammer works well.
The outer bushing only goes in about .25 in (you can see the black mark next to the bushing that I made as a reference point). I would measure yours before you take them out. Be careful when putting the outer bushing in. Drive the bushing in a little, then remove the drift and measure the depth. Repeat until the bushing is installed to the correct depth as measured with the dial calipers. (Mine were .25 and 1.275 inch from the lip of the small opening)
Then install the pin with the roller so the roller points to the front and back of transmission as shown. This picture also shows the 2 bushings.
Install the spring, and then the Cap and Snap Ring (same as the ones on the 5th and Reverse Gear bushing kits - 23-22-7-542-726). I purchased 3 sets of these bushing kits which include the 5th / Reverse bushing, blue cap, and snap ring. Funny thing was, it’s cheaper to buy the kit, then to buy the Cap and Snap Ring separately. Plus the dealer had the bushing kits in stock, and you get an extra 5th / Reverse bushing in case you mess one up.
Here is the roller pin inserted with the spring, along with the blue cap and snap ring.
Place the blue cap over the spring making sure to center the spring in the middle of the blue cap. Push the blue cap in with BMW Drift 234021 (as seen in the “How To for the Shift Pins, and 5th / Reverse Gear Bushings” link above.
I used snap ring pliers to start the snap ring in the hole as far as I could. Then use the BMW Drift 234021 to press the blue cap and snap ring in until it clicked and seated in the snap ring grove.
Here is the finished product with 3 new Caps and Snap Rings
Below are the part numbers for the 5th / Reverse Gear, Shift Pins (Catch Pins), and the “Detent” Pin (3rd Hole on the right)
23-11-7-525-048 (3x) Set of Resting Pins - Shift Pins (Catch Pins)
23-31-7-531-369 (3x) Cover Lid - (original p/n 23-31-1-222-988 superseded by 23-31-7-531-369)
07-11-9-937-227 (3x) Freeze Plug 14mm ( use this part OR - 23-31-7-531-369, they will both work)
23-11-7-533-394 (2x) Slide Bearing (Bushing - 12X14X10) for small detent pin with roller
23-11-7-542-726 (3x) Repair Kit Bearing – 5th / Reverse (Bushing 16X18X25, Cap, Snap Ring)
23-31-7-502-165 (1x) Locking Pin 5th - optional
23-31-1-224-849 (1x) Locking Pin Reverse - optional
23-31-1-224-823 (1x) Pin - Detent (small with roller) - optional
23-31-1-224-935 (1x) Spring 5th - optional
23-31-1-224-817 (1x) Spring Reverse - optional
23-31-1-224-819 (1x) Spring Detent (small will roller) - optional
Make sure to double check the part numbers for your particular year and model. This can be done on http://www.realoem.com
Good places to get Parts:
http://www.getbmwparts.com – powered by Tischer BMW of Silver Spring, MD
Or you can also check your local BMW dealership. But check around, I found that some dealerships charge more than others.
Last but not least, because of how the world is these days. Use this How To at your own risk. I do not assume any responsibility for damages or losses from using any information in this post.
All I can say is mine shifts like brand new now.
Thanks and Good Luck!
Symptoms are Hard to Shift into Gear and/or Shifter Wobbles While In Gear and Can Even Pop Out of Gear.
First of all I want to thank everyone on this forum that helped with the Reverse / 5th Gear Lean problem, and those that have posted DIY’s and How To’s.
GREAT JOB !!!
Since I got so much help and information from this forum, I thought I owe it to the BMW community to write up my first How To on changing what I call the transmission “Detent Pin” Bushings (this is the 3rd hole on the right that is sunk down lower than the 5th and Reverse pins and everyone asks “what is the 3rd hole for”)
This picture shows Reverse on the top left, 5th on bottom left, and the “Detent” Pin is the one on the right. I already removed the 5th and Reverse bushings, and was just about to remove the bushings inside the hole on the right. If you look closely there are actually 2 separate little bushings. You can see the 2 bushing better on a picture further down in this posting.
When I did my 5th / Reverse Gear Shift Gate Bushing, I figured I would do the infamous 3rd Bushing too. I did not know why, but on all the write ups I found, no one seems to do the 3rd Bushing and I could not find a definite answer to what its called. So if anyone knows the official name for this pin, please post it.
For starters here are some links that helped me with the 5th / Reverse Gear Lean problem and the Shifting Fork Catch Pins (the 3 pins on the top of the transmission) They are very helpful and include part numbers too. Thanks to the authors of these posts!
Great How To for Removing the Transmission:
http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplass...rem_trans.html
Great How To for the Shift Pins, and 5th / Reverse Gear Bushings:
http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplass...hift_pins.html
You might want to check out your Shift Lever and refresh some of the parts/bushings on it as well, since you will have the Transmission out already.
Here is a How To on the Shift Lever Removal / Installation and Refreshing Bushing etc:
http://pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarti...t_Bushings.htm
Some more Transmission / Clutch / Shift Bushings posts that helped me with nice big pictures.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=342305
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=339092
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=256391
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1702975
If you need the 5 Drifts that are used to install the 5th, Reverse, and Shift Pins, these posts have some people who will loan/rent them to you.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=362566
http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/e36-m3...ent-tools.html
Ok, here is my experience that I want to share, and hope it helps at least one person out there to make their E36 shift much better, quit wobbling, and stay in gear.
After removing the 5th and Reverse gear bushings, mentioned above, I removed the blue cap for the infamous 3rd hole. Come to find out the bushing in the 3rd hole is much different than the ones for 5th and Reverse. The pin and bushings are about half the size and the pin has a roller at the end of it. From what I can tell this is what keeps your Shifter Lever in gear and not want to shake and pop out of gear.
Here is a picture of the 3 holes. Note the one of the right has 2 small bushings inside. Along with the pin that goes inside with a roller at the end of it.
See Diagram
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...25&hg=23&fg=15
Part number 7 is the bushing you need for the 3rd hole. You will need 2 of these bushings. Realoem refers to them as Slide Bearings, but I will them bushings.
Slide Bearing – (Inside Dia X Outside Dia X Length in mm = 12X14X10) - 23-11-7-533-394
For size reference:
#6 is the bushing for the 5th and Reverse Pins
Slide Bearing – (16X18X25) – 23-11-7-533-395
You do not need this part as it already comes in the kit# 23-22-7-542-726 which is listed as one of the parts you need in the 5th / Reverse How To instructions.
Also see
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...29&hg=23&fg=15
Parts #16, 15, 10, and 9 show the pin, spring, cap and locking ring (snap ring) for the 3rd hole.
Check for wear on the pin and roller of part #16.
Replace part#16 and the spring #15 as necessary.
My pin was in good condition and the roller felt smooth with no visible wear, so I opted not to replace it, or the spring.
Note: The roller on pin #16 rides along the detents of the Selector Shaft (part #1). This is the same shaft at the end of the transmission that your Shifter Lever hooks to.
Before I removed my Transmission, my Shifter was hard to put into 1st gear and also used to shake and wobble when it was in 1st and 2nd gear, and even popped out of gear a few times, OUCH. After seeing how stuck my 3rd pin was, I understand why it wanted to pop out of gear. The pin was not doing its job and resting in one of the detents on the Selector Shaft. So the Shifter Lever was able to shake itself out of gear.
Out of the 3 pins (5th, Reverse gear, Detent pin), my Detent pin was by far the hardest to get out and was really stuck in the bushings.
To get this pin out I found a long wood screw, about 3 in long, that I screwed into the little hole on the inside of the pin where the spring goes. I then used a couple of screw drivers on the head of the screw to pry the pin out of the hole. (sorry no pictures of this). I assume a slide hammer would also work, but I did not have one available with a screw attachment.
Once out, I saw the 2 small bushings (23-11-7-533-394), one about ¼ inch inside the hole and the other about 1 ¼ inch inside the hole. Measure the depth before pulling your bushings out. I used dial calipers as shown in this picture to measure the depth of each bushing.
Pulling the Bushings - This method can also be used to pull the 5th and Reverse Gear bushings.
I used a Blind Hole Bushing Puller, as shown here, to remove the bushings. Check your local auto parts store. They usually have special tools to rent/loan. I rented mine at Autozone.
The first bushing came out easy, the 2nd one was so far inside the hole that the puller would not reach in far enough to grab the back of the bushing. After a few attempts of trying to get the inner bushing out, I finally tightened the 2 nuts on the puller attachment really tight, which spreads out the jaws, so that it basically dug its jaws into the inside of the bushing. Now I had enough bite on the bushing to use the slide hammer to start removing it. Once it was half way out, I was able to re-adjust the puller so it grabbed behind the bushing and knocked it out the rest of the way.
This shows a picture trying to get the inner bushing out. Note the tool bottoms out on the hole of the transmission.
This picture shows the inner bushing after I finally got it out.
Once I got the bushings out, I cleaned up the hole and then installed the 2 new bushings seen here. Old ones are on top. New ones are on the bottom.
Bushing Part number: 23-11-7-533-394
I had a buddy make another drift to install the small bushings for the Detent Pin.
Here are the dimensions (for my transmission) if someone wants to make their own. I also attached the drawing to download.
Note: Drawing is to scale.
Installing the Bushings:
Put one of the new bushings on the end of the drift as shown.
I choose to orient the split of the bushing so it points toward the top or bottom of the transmission, due to the forward and backwards force on the detent pin. Then hammer in the inner bushing until the drift bottoms out on the lip of the drift (about 1.25 inch), a dead blow hammer or similar rubber hammer works well.
The outer bushing only goes in about .25 in (you can see the black mark next to the bushing that I made as a reference point). I would measure yours before you take them out. Be careful when putting the outer bushing in. Drive the bushing in a little, then remove the drift and measure the depth. Repeat until the bushing is installed to the correct depth as measured with the dial calipers. (Mine were .25 and 1.275 inch from the lip of the small opening)
Then install the pin with the roller so the roller points to the front and back of transmission as shown. This picture also shows the 2 bushings.
Install the spring, and then the Cap and Snap Ring (same as the ones on the 5th and Reverse Gear bushing kits - 23-22-7-542-726). I purchased 3 sets of these bushing kits which include the 5th / Reverse bushing, blue cap, and snap ring. Funny thing was, it’s cheaper to buy the kit, then to buy the Cap and Snap Ring separately. Plus the dealer had the bushing kits in stock, and you get an extra 5th / Reverse bushing in case you mess one up.
Here is the roller pin inserted with the spring, along with the blue cap and snap ring.
Place the blue cap over the spring making sure to center the spring in the middle of the blue cap. Push the blue cap in with BMW Drift 234021 (as seen in the “How To for the Shift Pins, and 5th / Reverse Gear Bushings” link above.
I used snap ring pliers to start the snap ring in the hole as far as I could. Then use the BMW Drift 234021 to press the blue cap and snap ring in until it clicked and seated in the snap ring grove.
Here is the finished product with 3 new Caps and Snap Rings
Below are the part numbers for the 5th / Reverse Gear, Shift Pins (Catch Pins), and the “Detent” Pin (3rd Hole on the right)
23-11-7-525-048 (3x) Set of Resting Pins - Shift Pins (Catch Pins)
23-31-7-531-369 (3x) Cover Lid - (original p/n 23-31-1-222-988 superseded by 23-31-7-531-369)
07-11-9-937-227 (3x) Freeze Plug 14mm ( use this part OR - 23-31-7-531-369, they will both work)
23-11-7-533-394 (2x) Slide Bearing (Bushing - 12X14X10) for small detent pin with roller
23-11-7-542-726 (3x) Repair Kit Bearing – 5th / Reverse (Bushing 16X18X25, Cap, Snap Ring)
23-31-7-502-165 (1x) Locking Pin 5th - optional
23-31-1-224-849 (1x) Locking Pin Reverse - optional
23-31-1-224-823 (1x) Pin - Detent (small with roller) - optional
23-31-1-224-935 (1x) Spring 5th - optional
23-31-1-224-817 (1x) Spring Reverse - optional
23-31-1-224-819 (1x) Spring Detent (small will roller) - optional
Make sure to double check the part numbers for your particular year and model. This can be done on http://www.realoem.com
Good places to get Parts:
http://www.getbmwparts.com – powered by Tischer BMW of Silver Spring, MD
Or you can also check your local BMW dealership. But check around, I found that some dealerships charge more than others.
Last but not least, because of how the world is these days. Use this How To at your own risk. I do not assume any responsibility for damages or losses from using any information in this post.
All I can say is mine shifts like brand new now.
Thanks and Good Luck!
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