Rear Trail Arm Pocket Repair seeking advice

[m3f_anarekist]

so i had my rear trail arm bushings replaced and my driver side rear trail arm bracket was cracked, part 17 here.







also the most forward bolt hole area was cracked and basically the "bolt hole" came off the frame, i had the bolt hole welded back on and the cracks in the bracket welded back together too (wish i didnt do this but i had to get my car out of this guys garage, long story) dude told me not to worry and an alignment would bring it to spec.



fast forward to alignment day and that wheel just wouldnt toe into spec, also the the tech told me the bolt keeps turning.



sorry, i know you guys hate being arm chair mechanics but i consider you guys experts and would like some info when i bring into repair this with rta pocket reinforcements. this it's possible for a professional body shop to correctly re-weld this bolt hole? or should i source an e36 from a junk yard and cut out this section of the car's frame? kinda similar to a rear top shock mount repair.



car has been riding fine with just a touch of veering to the right when i let go of the steering wheel, besides that tire ware has been minimal surprisingly, i guess the alignment is spot on with the exception of this wheel.

[m3f_Brandon318]

A reputable body shop should be able to make the appropriate fixes. I suspect that the bolts are spinning because the threaded housing is free from the sheet metal that it attaches to, not because of stripped threads. This should be fixable.


Worst case, I would just order the sheet metal from BMW if you want to re-weld a new section in. Much less arduous and less expensive than buying an entire car for a 6 inch square section of body work.

[m3f_anarekist]

werd, thanks man.

[m3f_englishtom1596q]

+1 for a shop being able to repair it without too much headache.

[m3f_fiveightandten]

A reputable body shop should be able to make the appropriate fixes. I suspect that the bolts are spinning because the threaded housing is free from the sheet metal that it attaches to, not because of stripped threads. This should be fixable.



Worst case, I would just order the sheet metal from BMW if you want to re-weld a new section in. Much less arduous and less expensive than buying an entire car for a 6 inch square section of body work.

This.



Even if the threading was stripped, they could install a timesert in there or even just remove it and install a new threaded bung. Unless the sheet metal is in really poor condition, there's no need to replace it.



That being said...I find it odd that the car wouldn't align correctly due to this. There are 3 bolts. Not just one. If one is grossly out of position, you can't thread in the other 2. Was the RTAB replaced as well? The position of that bushing matters.



Anyways...AKG plates, a proper shop, and be done with it.

[m3f_Magic M3]

Call Calvin (OahuMpower). That is a layup for him, he is down in San Diego. I know it's a little trek, but he can get you all set and back on the road very quickly.





Pete

[m3f_OahuMPower]

Call Calvin (OahuMpower). That is a layup for him, he is down in San Diego. I know it's a little trek, but he can get you all set and back on the road very quickly.





Pete

This... already talked to u on BFC (99mpower).



I cant count the # of pockets Ive welded up. I even keep spare AKG plates at the house

[m3f_roarE36M3]

I'd just source a new bracket too. Can't be all that much.


Hopefully the trailing arm isn't bent like mine was. Anyway, Cal is def. the man to talk to.

[m3f_OahuMPower]

OP... whats the word?

[m3f_anarekist]

thanks for the response guys.



far as i know all the other bolts are fine and are in there, just the one had the tread bung broken/bolt spinning. the rta bushings were replaced with oem ones, have new urethane ones to be put in + derlin anti shim plates. i have the bimmerworld 3 piece reinforcement plates, should i ditch those and go with the akg ones? i'll def give you a call.

[m3f_OahuMPower]

thanks for the response guys.



far as i know all the other bolts are fine and are in there, just the one had the tread bung broken/bolt spinning. the rta bushings were replaced with oem ones, have new urethane ones to be put in + derlin anti shim plates. i have the bimmerworld 3 piece reinforcement plates, should i ditch those and go with the akg ones? i'll def give you a call.

BW 3 piece plates are just fine... give me a buzz sometime monday (tomorrow I'm finishing a s52 motor build, and reinstall)

[m3f_97_4dr_5spd_m3]

BW 3 piece plates are just fine... give me a buzz sometime monday (tomorrow I'm finishing a s52 motor build, and reinstall)

Can you transfer to Hanscomb AFB please!!??!!

[m3f_OahuMPower]

trying to get stationed at Norfolk, VA next year

[m3f_jeremy5000]

trying to get stationed at Norfolk, VA next year

I'll make a trip down to you to do some work then, or come out east this summer when me and Bobby and a few others do an event or watch some pros out there.

[m3f_xmetrix]

I say the 3 piece reinforcement is garbage. pure and simple. I've had a set, its just such a worthless mess. Why is it 3 pieces when 1 piece is superior?


Go with the 1 piece. its a whole lot cleaner and straight forward repair. They're $50 at akgmotorsport.com

















I didn't bother shopping around for the cheapest. I just needed it done.


I went to castro's customs and paid around $400 for new bushings and labor to install everything.


More install pictures available at xmxstudio.com/rtab_repair


The single piece kits just offer a nice uniform no chance of ****ing it up type installation. Makes the job take a whole lot less time as it only takes 2 tack welds to get it secured into position rather than messing with 3 seperate pieces.


I had bolts rip from the chassis and everything went back together like a neat clean puzzle piece. rear end felt great after everything was bolted back up.While you're getting that done I'd recommend doing all your rear end bushings. subframe/diff/rtabs/etc.