My 99' Hellrot intro

[m3f_Nate047]

Car is at my buddy's shop for a proper diagnosis regarding the oiling issues and ticking, gonna be doing a clutch and brakes pretty soon as well. Working on a plan for suspension as well. Driving my Fit again kinda sucks lol.


Side note, next track day for me will be at the Nürburgring actually, September 26th. I've driven 10 laps there last year, looking forward to some more seat time on a proper track!

[m3f_usedunderwear]

Driving on the Nürburgring ?? Jealous!!


Looking forward to the future updates

[m3f_CheckABS]

Nice car Nate!



Looks like a good little project car.

[m3f_Nate047]

Thanks everyone, good news from the shop... Loose timing chain tensioner, looking like that is likely the only issue with the motor. They're gonna inspect the top end a bit more this afternoon. Will play it by ear if the oil light comes on again.



Here's some very predictable Cali Photography shots from the track day. My wife wasn't able to come shoot so this is all I could get.



BW__4714_Jul3016_by_BC-CaliPhoto by Nate Hassler, on Flickr



BW__4414_Jul3016_by_BC-CaliPhoto by Nate Hassler, on Flickr



Body roll for dayyyyyyyys haha. Usin' them curbs tho.



Will be addressing the suspension next, as well as the clutch.

[m3f_englishtom1596q]

If the oil light is coming on then your oil pressure is dropping below 5psi which means the head is starved of oil causing the lifters to tick and the chain tensioner to loosen. If that lights coming on there is something seriously wrong with the motor and shouldn't be driving it. Either your oil pump nut is loose or you have a cracked oil pickup (both very common). I highly doubt your issue is just a loose tensioner as that won't cause your lifters to tick, oil isn't getting where it needs to

[m3f_usedunderwear]

Cool pictures on the track!!

If the oil light is coming on then your oil pressure is dropping below 5psi which means the head is starved of oil causing the lifters to tick and the chain tensioner to loosen. If that lights coming on there is something seriously wrong with the motor and shouldn't be driving it. Either your oil pump nut is loose or you have a cracked oil pickup (both very common). I highly doubt your issue is just a loose tensioner as that won't cause your lifters to tick, oil isn't getting where it needs to

Good advice here, my friend had a bad lifter tick and the noise was pretty loud. It ended up being that his oil pickup tube was cracked

[m3f_Nate047]

Hmmm, good to know. I was considering replacing the oil pump and pickup and doing a oil pan baffle, was hoping I wouldn't need to though. I guess maybe I'm dreaming hoping the tensioner being loose was the cause, not the effect.

[m3f_Nate047]

Spoke with my mechanic, he says those points are very valid. He also says the tensioner is weak, so we will replace this first (as well as the oil pressure sender) and see if the issue persists. Honestly at this point I have to trust his judgement over my own so we'll see. If the light comes back on because of the same issue, it'll happen right away as the car reaches operating temp, and then we'll know where to focus next. Which reminds me, not sure how relevant it is but the oil light only comes on after the engine is warm and when I'm idling at a stop. But it also flickered around a couple of hard corners on track, which supports the pickup or pump being at fault.


He sent me some photos of the top end with the valve cover off, it looks fine, clean, like it's getting enough oil. LOOKS like it at least. He says the oil in there is a bit on the thin side. I have heard I think 3 different oil weight recommendations... 15w40, 15w50 and 10w60. Starting to lose my mind here with different opinions from everyone I ask.


Side note: Anyone on here have experience with Achilles Motorsports oil pan baffle and oil pump upgrade? Contemplating... Not finding a lot of reviews.

[m3f_BMW_HUB]

There is a great oil thread on bimmerforums which shows all the recommended oil, it really depends on what kind of climate you live in. There is this misconception that these cars require fancy oil like 10w60 NONSENSE! These cars do not need fancy oil, at least the American spec models. In fact early production e36 m3s were recommended to use DINO oil. Personally, I use 5w30 full synthetic as I live in Chicagoland and we see -20 degree temps in the winter at times. Generally speaking, anything full synthetic 0-15w30-45 will work properly on our cars. Side note: your car is beautiful and makes me wish I had Hellrot paint.



Link to the oil guide: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...tion-questions

[m3f_usedunderwear]

Side note: Anyone on here have experience with Achilles Motorsports oil pan baffle and oil pump upgrade? Contemplating... Not finding a lot of reviews.

I have these installed on my car. I don't have much to say in details about it but I did these upgrades before I took my car to its first track event, no oil lights or anything came on. Very quality pieces...Mino + Frank who I believe works at Achilles are very friendly and helpful!! Dont hesitate to give them a call.


You have the option to send them your current oil pump/pickup tube and if it qualifies, you get your core charge refunded back to you.


If you are under there doing the oil pan baffle, mind as well get the reinforced pickup tube and also get a new oil pan gasket as well. GL

[m3f_m3onrails]

Nate! I remember you from the old ClubSi days years ago! I had the EBP Si and went by the name of PurduinaSi. Small world seeing you on here!


Car looks super clean! Might I suggest looking into the S54 oil pump and pan, that should definitely help solve any oil starvation issues on the track. It's a common problem on these motors.

[m3f_Nate047]

Hey man, what's up! Haven't been on clubsi in forever haha.


Seems like the E46 pump and pan is like $2000 all in, with new parts. Or at least that's what the Bimmerworld kit costs. Any input on the Achilles Motorsport option? A baffle, new pump and new suction pipe from them will be like $650 or so.

[m3f_Nate047]

Update: I ended up replacing the oil pump and pickup tube with units from Achilles Motorsports, both high quality rebuilt and modified OE pieces. Also added a pan baffle from Achilles for good measure. When we opened up the motor, the nut was on the old pump, and the existing tube was not cracked. No outward signs of worn bearings although we did not pull them because there appeared to be no need. Oil was clean, no debris etc... It appeared that nothing was wrong...???


Buttoned everything back up and much to my dismay, the same issue happened again. Oil light began to flicker once the motor is fully warm, only at idle, never under load. Plugged in the ol' SnapOn pressure gauge, low and behold the pressure was reading about 4 psi at idle but immediately raised when any amount of throttle is applied. I said "**** it" and drove it anyway because if the bearings are bad, I'll approach that at a later date. Not interested in opening the motor 50 miles after doing exactly that.


Then, after like a week or so... The light doesn't come on at all anymore. I'm perplexed honestly. At this point I have been driving for a month or so without any oil light, at any engine temp, EXCEPT for when I bog the clutch and the RPM drops really low. The light will flicker for a split second when that happens. I read about it and found that another thing that can happen is the oil squirters in the block can fail, but again those are parts you can't get to without pulling the motor basically. Or it's the bearings. It's probably the bearings. I'm trying to convince myself it's not though, at 125k miles. So for now, gonna just keep driving. I have yet to test the pressure again since the light has stopped coming on but I will do that if nothing else out of curiosity. My accessory belt is squeaking because if it's not one thing it's another, right? But aside from that, all is quiet. Gathering parts for suspension/brakes and I need to do the clutch sooner rather than later. I got a front sword setup and a proper coupe sized Class II wing from Germany as well, so I'll have to deal with bodywork early next year probably.

[m3f_usedunderwear]

Thanks for the update, thats an odd scenario for sure. GL with the other fixes / mods

[m3f_Nate047]

Drove the car for a while today... The flickering oil light came back, not really surprising at this point but a bit deflating nonetheless. Electrical accessories like A/C and power steering will cause the idle to drop slightly and that brings on the flickering light. Also if I bog the clutch a bit and RPM dips below idle, the light flickers. So it's definitely low pressure at low RPM. Then after sitting in traffic and getting the motor properly hot, the light will flicker on as it always did regardless of A/C etc... At about 700 RPM idle when fully warm. I have 15W-40 Liqui Moly in the car.


I also noticed that the car makes a sound which may be a slight rod knock, EVER so slightly at a cold startup. JUST for a moment and then it's gone. It sounds almost just like the chain tensioner did before I replaced it, very quiet. Definitely not the loud persistent sounds typically associated with rod knock.


I learned today that the car has had 5W-30 in it it's whole life until I owned it... I think that could be a contributing factor to the rod bearings wearing out prematurely. Mileage as of today is just shy of 125k. Just to reiterate, I have replaced the oil pump, pick up tube, timing chain tensioner, checked the entire system for leaks (none found) and still experience low pressure at idle. In retrospect I should have absolutely done the rod bearings when I had the pan off and pump out. That was stupid of me.


I feel like I've hit a road block on the oil issue. Judge me if you'd like but I will just drive it for a while until it gets worse and my hand is forced. I would like to address the suspension, clutch and brakes before diving into the damn motor again.