Need suspension input (yes another one)

[m3f_Bimmerman325i]

No they are. They are trash on the E36. They fail and outside of the office the KW guys laugh about how they won’t fix them.

Huh, didn't know that.



What I meant but didn't explain well was that the STs and KWs are different from the multi-branded BC/Megan/D2 line of cheap coilover. STs may be crap (don't know, haven't owned) but they're not from the same generic coilover factory as the standard cheap stuff is. At least that's my understanding.

[m3f_pbonsalb]

The base model KW are inexpensive coilovers comparable to other inexpensive coilovers. A step above Raceland, perhaps, but nowhere near the level of GC or TCK. KW does make some good coilovers but they are much more expensive than their bottom line ones.

[m3f_matt0807]

Don’t trade one inexpensive coil like BC over for another like ST. Move up to higher quality units like GC or TCK that have been proven on the track and in the street over many years.

Hmmm maybe it is time to step up to the more expensive solution

[m3f_Braymond141]

Huh, didn't know that.



What I meant but didn't explain well was that the STs and KWs are different from the multi-branded BC/Megan/D2 line of cheap coilover. STs may be crap (don't know, haven't owned) but they're not from the same generic coilover factory as the standard cheap stuff is. At least that's my understanding.

Yeah but KW does an equal job at making the standard cheap stuff (meaning not great). They are also responsible for shit brands such as Solowerks. The KW brand means little here.

[m3f_Kimosabe2]

I've had TCK CO on my e46 M3 and Full CG CO on my 73 2002 and they are top notch. On my previous e36 M3, I had Koni with H&R Race. Loved it at the time but I was much younger too. I just redid my current e36 M3 with all oem bushings, control arms, etc. Afterwards, I realized how worn out it made my 90k Yellow Konis feel. I DD it so TCK and GC is not an option for me. Tire rack has a great deal on ST "X" $767.00 & "XTA" $1050.00 with rebates. I almost pulled the trigger but decided to stay with Yellow Konis and my H&R OE Springs. Very happy with them. My M3 feel 1997 new now.

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

I do not know about coilovers as much as most of the people here, so I believe the comments about the quality of ST are correct.



If the car is going to spend time on the track, then camber plates at the front are a must. Otherwise it will just eat the outer edges of the tyres. Please correct me if this is incorrect.



However, the front camber plates were a big factor in my suggestion.

[m3f_Nate047]

Lots of good info in this thread, but my vote is for KW V3. I have never owned the V1 or V2, or ST, but I can speak to the quality and service for V3 and Clubsports. The dampers are actually the same between both products, the spring is different and the Clubsport has top mounts. You can match V3s with a number of top mounts though. For example, I had V3s with TEIN top mounts on a Honda I used to own. I have Clubsports on my car currently but they are likely past the point of being "too rough" for around town for most people's taste. I like KW, I probably sound like a cheerleader but I have had nothing but positive experiences. Not saying anything against any other brands suggested in this thread though.


PS: bushing choice will play a big role in the noise/vibration/comfort, as will springs

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

For example, I had V3s with TEIN top mounts on a Honda I used to own. I have Clubsports on my car currently but they are likely past the point of being "too rough" for around town for most people's taste.

Which Honda was that?



Also, do you mean that the clubsports are too stiff?

[Obioban]

Another vote for TCKs, here!

[m3f_aeronaut]

Koni yellows and a set of HR OE springs (for example) provide a very nice upgrade over stock, lower the car as low as it needs to go, and are at a good price point compared to the better C/O's, and they do absolutely fine on track. You can easily move up to the advanced levels at HPDE's without being limited by this combination. Use some cheap camber shims to get around -2.5 camber, and your set. No need for camber plates.


If you need to have a large range of spring rate selection, want to play with ride height, rake, corner weight, ARB settings, and tire compounds, then you'll want C/O's. Otherwise, they mostly provide an ability for you to say you have coil-overs, yo. Most people buy coilovers, set them to some arbitrary setting they read off the internets, and never use what they're made for.


If you just want to lower the car for looks (which is fine), be warned that no damper no matter how expensive is going to give a smooth ride if you're bouncing off the bump stops and using 2" of travel.


Both GC and TCK offer a great product and fantastic service. Pick your favorite color. IMO, if you need c/o's, consider moving up to double adjustable.

[m3f_jbse39]

I do not know about coilovers as much as most of the people here, so I believe the comments about the quality of ST are correct.



If the car is going to spend time on the track, then camber plates at the front are a must. Otherwise it will just eat the outer edges of the tyres. Please correct me if this is incorrect.



However, the front camber plates were a big factor in my suggestion.

I am not sure it is a "must", perhaps depends on the skill level of the driver? I ran the same MPSS for 3.5 years (minus times I had winter tires on) and kept up with my run groups fine on Dinan spring+Konis without camber plates. I started to chunk off the shoulders the last time out finally, but until that point I had fairly even wear on all 4, aside from slightly more wear on the inside due to miles I put on the car as daily.



I think I probably could have gotten a bit more corner speed/grip with camber plates but nothing that handicapped me significantly. Not to brag (ok, just a bit) but I have been able to stay ahead of most other "stock-ish" e36 M3s in my run groups unless they had engine mods or stickier tires.

[m3f_avusblu_e36]

i swapped from bc coilover garbage on my 95 m3 to h+r's and struts, what a world of difference, the car rides better than my 06 m3. I don't do any tracking only DD and spirited driving

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

I am not sure it is a "must", perhaps depends on the skill level of the driver? I ran the same MPSS for 3.5 years (minus times I had winter tires on) and kept up with my run groups fine on Dinan spring+Konis without camber plates. I started to chunk off the shoulders the last time out finally, but until that point I had fairly even wear on all 4, aside from slightly more wear on the inside due to miles I put on the car as daily.



I think I probably could have gotten a bit more corner speed/grip with camber plates but nothing that handicapped me significantly. Not to brag (ok, just a bit) but I have been able to stay ahead of most other "stock-ish" e36 M3s in my run groups unless they had engine mods or stickier tires.

Very nice. What was your camber at the front and what air pressure were you running?

[m3f_jbse39]

Very nice. What was your camber at the front and what air pressure were you running?

-1.3 on the fronts and -1.7 in the rears. I try to shoot for 36-37 psi, hot, I think.

[m3f_T3AMFiSh]

Ground Controls here..