Need suspension input (yes another one)

[m3f_Nate047]

Someone else mentioned that stiff springs are bad if you have bumpy roads, this is true because if you hit a bump and bounce, your tire loses contact with the road momentarily and therefore you lose grip. But you don't want an overly soft spring either. A lot of it is preference... If this is your first modified car just start with something simple and upgrade later if you start to outgrow the setup. If it's not your first modified car, what setup and cars have you had before that you liked?

[m3f_matt0807]

I've come from the Miata world - I've had 4 Miatas with at least 6 different setups. I've also had a 350z (hated), an s2000 (enjoyed). I get that the e36 is a different platform, and I'm really liking it. I don't want it to be another Miata with 700lb front springs.


For reference, I'm on Style 24s with a 20mm spacer on the front 7.5"s right now.

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

98 Civic track car, and what I mean is the Clubsport spring rate is a bit rough for my liking around town. It's not "comfortable" pretty much by any definition of the word. But it's good on track and on canyon roads etc...

Those old civics make great track cars. Especially the hatchbacks. Very light cars.



Thanks for sharing your feedback on the suspension.

[m3f_SARacingE36]

Isn't it likely he will be able to run without spacers at all because the OE style strut housings have the spring perch sit above the tire, where coilovers have the spring/spring perch sit lower?

Shims change the equation but the tire shouldn't hit anything but the strut housing if the offset is too high/shims are too aggressive.

Yeah, you are correct right about the perch location on the Bilsteins being above the tire. A spacer will still be needed for any offset above 35, depending on tire size (overall diameter + tread width + section width). Since he is on 17x7.5 +41 all around, that is about the least aggressive setup you could run on a M3. I ran 17x8 +47 OE wheels & after the shims, the 225/45 sidewalls would rub the strut housing. So I started using the smallest spacer I found that was still hub centric, a 12mm.


About time the OP got away from Miata sized (width) wheels, and went to something more appropriate for a vehicle that is 5-700 lbs heavier. (I started in Civics & Miatas as well... but I ran x9's w/ 225's & Ohlins DFV on the Miata... & x9.5 w/ 245's now, which is a highly potent setup on the E36)

[m3f_bluptgm3]

That will only yield -2.5 camber, you will need to shim the strut for another degree, and -3.5 is a really good spot for street tires (200 tw).

Good info - I believe “frbz” was only looking for -2.5 deg.

Presently I have Dinan supplied Konis and Dinan springs with Vorshlag camber plates in my 94 M3. .....

What do the gurus suggest to achieve the -2.5 camber without the race style camber plates?

As for additional parts required to replace COs with factory style struts/springs -

Look at the exploded parts diagrams in www.Realoem.com.

E36 is now relegated to “classic” selection within initial pull downs.


Use last 7 characters of you VIN to establish proper parts diagrams/lists.


I would use Lemforder OE replacement E46M3 Convertible RSMs as they are more robust than E30, E36, E46 OE family of parts.


I’d have bump-stops and dust-shields (Bilstein Struts should come with accordion dust shields) on hand in addition to the various index, bearing plate dust shield, clearance and index washers and paper body gaskets for both front and rear.

Rear RSM and front strut Guide Supports/Bearing Plates/Strut mounts, ...and strut upper/lower rubber spring pads.

Use Lemforder parts to replace OE parts I.e., RSMs, Guide Supports, etc., etc.


If you decide to go with Koni, they only supply a cartridge that is fitted to a gutted OE strut casing. (Ref - Koni Cut-n-Gut). You will have to source OE housings.

Sachs produces OE replacement struts/shocks that will last ~ 30K Miles, but you would need OE springs to use them. Koni Sports and Bilstein Sports are shortened to run with lowering springs.


BMW redesigned the King Pins/Spindles for the 1996+M3 creating more King Pin inclination at full lock. This change places the front tire closer to strut, which can cause rubbing issues depending on wheel width and offset. Also when adding “crash bolt” shims at the strut to King Pin attachment to gain more negative camber.

This is less of an issue for the Pre-1996 M3s.

......So I started using the smallest spacer I found that was still hub centric, a 12mm.

As an FYI -

Turner sells a “cup” that is fit into the lip of the spindle dust shield that accomplishes wheel indexing for use with non-indexing 5mm - 10mm spacers.