Well...the brake job wasn't completely successful.

[m3f_Max M3]

Yeah, I think it would be hard to get a braker bar in there without a lift. I don't mind paying a mech. to do the rears. I heard I might have to undo the rear shocks to access some of the bolts anyway.



It's really easy.... You shouldn't need a breaker bar and you definitely don't need to remove shocks. A normal 3/8" drive socket wrench and a Craftsman weighted hammer is all you need for the carrier bolts. **** it up and go for it! You'll be patting yourself on the back in no time!



EDIT: d a m n filter... I wrote " S u c k it up"... not anything else!

[m3f_ziggy]

It isn't that easy. I tried the socket wrench with a 2 lbs hammer and no luck. I ended up using my old torque wrench (don't have a breaker/johnson bar) and bent the crap out of it to get the 2 bolts off. But I got them off!

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

Yeah, you'll definitely need penetrating oil/liquid wrench or somethin for those bolts.



Maybe some people's are just stuck on there harder.



I'd also get some anti-seize so next time your life will be a bit easier.



Genner: Search through my other thread on brakes and there is a really really good link that goes through all the steps really slowly. I found it to be an excellent DIY guide. I think my other thread was called something like, "last minute tips before attemping brake job"

[m3f_03E36M3_956a950a08]

completely unrelated, but if you are buying a torque wrench, don't buy craftsman! I spent $70 on one, used it twice, it broke... figured no biggie craftsman stands behind their tools. WRONG! Torque wrenches are "different" no warranty. wtf? Buy snap-on or something else, anything but craftsman.



Brandon