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    Suspension Problems?

    Ok this is going to be hard to explain so if you are reading this please bare with me. I have a 1997 M3 that I've had for a few months now, which now has 81,000 miles on it. The engine runs very strong and smooth so no problems there. However when I take a corner at moderate to moderately high speeds the car seems to start with a nice arc then dive into the corner hard then kind of smooth out again. The feeling is very unnerving and makes the rear end seem like it is going to slide out from underneath. Now as far as I know there had been nothing done to any of the suspension in all of these 81,000 miles, so I'm thinking that it is not extraordinary that it may need some work. In addition there is a clunking noise that seems to radate from the front end going over bumps. The ball joints seem tight, the sway bar bushings seem to be pretty worn and loose, but visually everything else looks ok.

    I'm thinking about a new set of shocks and stuts for the front (thinking Bileteins as from what I can tell you get the full strut assembly and with Koni's you get the strut insert). Of course at that time I'll replace the Rear Shock Mounts with some aftermarket thing. What else should I be considering?

    #2
    The corner issues, seems like the rtabs are dead. The car turns in and then feels like the rear wants to steer.



    At 81k, i'd be looking to replace eveything. Shocks, rsms, control arms, control arm bushings, and rtabs.

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      #3
      The corner issues, seems like the rtabs are dead. The car turns in and then feels like the rear wants to steer.



      At 81k, i'd be looking to replace eveything. Shocks, rsms, control arms, control arm bushings, and rtabs.



      Thanks for the info, any recommendations on where to get the RTABS? What kind to get? What is your opinion in the bilsteins?

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        #4
        Sway-bar links are a very common cause of clunking from the front. Get those done too. I have stock 96+ RTABs w/ GC shims - good set-up and doesn't have the noise problems associated with some aftermarket urethane bushings

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          #5
          Thanks for the information guys, I certainly appreciate it. I'll let you know how it all goes. I am hopefull ordering the parts next week.

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            #6
            Ok now I'm really confused. I have been checking online looking for parts for my suspension. If I need to do work on my bimmer, I may as well do as much as possible. So I went to a local high performance shop, Passen Motorsports, and talked to a guy in there. His opinion was to just go the Koni threaded coil over shocks if I needed new shocks and springs (which I do need). So I guess I have two questions. Are these Koni Coil Overs, overkill? (For the price of coilovers I can get shocks, springs and new swaybars)!! And one more thing is Urethane bushings. What is everyones opinion on Urethane? I hear that they are very noisy and there is nothing you can do about that, but it's worth it for the performance.

            Sorry to be long winded but if I'm going to drop $1500 into this M3 I want to do it right. :banghead:

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              #7
              The koni coilovers aren't bad. I used to have them. They are a great street setup, rides like stock, but handles great. Rear ride height is not adjustable though.



              For street use, a good spring/shock combo will be just fine.



              For poly bushing it really depends on their location. Swaybar bushings are fine. I wouldn't use them as rtabs or control arm bushings.

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                #8
                Sean, what are you using now? Looks like a nice flat ride though the turn there?

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                  #9
                  GC track/school kit with 450/525 springs and camber plates. Oh, and uuc sways.

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                    #10
                    sorry for the ignorance,.. but what are RTABS???

                    and on a side note,.. what can i do to keep the front of the car from launching upwards,.. i hate it,.. i know that this would be likely from any car with a lot of rear wheel power, but its not very impressive,.. i feel like im driving a boat that has to plane off,...

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                      #11
                      Rear Trailing Arm Bushings



                      Its more the rear end squatting than the front lifting. You can run stiffer springs, would stop most of that.

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                        #12
                        The corner issues, seems like the rtabs are dead. The car turns in and then feels like the rear wants to steer.



                        At 81k, i'd be looking to replace eveything. Shocks, rsms, control arms, control arm bushings, and rtabs.



                        Question:

                        Why would you need to replace all the suspension components that you mention if they're not all damaged or bent?

                        I need an alignment really bad in my car. Its been 118k miles and I haven;t had one in a really long time. My rear tires wear out extremely fast. Like every 5000 miles with no spirited driving! I;m considering taking my car to the dealership where they would diagnose my suspension and tell me what's wrong. But I've been talking to one of the BMW mechanics and he doesn;t even think that my stock shocks are worn out. He pushed on them and noticed that they don;t bounce at all after they come up. But the funny thing is that everybody on this forum says that shocks wear out at around 80k.



                        Thanks

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                          #13
                          My stock shocks were showing wear at 50k.



                          I'm at 84k and the only things original are my rear camber arms, and the bushings linked to them. The balljoints tend to start to go at 80k, so that means new control arms. I'd look at the rtabs at 40-50k miles.



                          You should try to drive another e36 with a newish suspension and feel the difference. I tend to be very on top of my maintaince stuff.

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                            #14
                            My stock shocks were showing wear at 50k.



                            I'm at 84k and the only things original are my rear camber arms, and the bushings linked to them. The balljoints tend to start to go at 80k, so that means new control arms. I'd look at the rtabs at 40-50k miles.



                            You should try to drive another e36 with a newish suspension and feel the difference. I tend to be very on top of my maintaince stuff.



                            I do agree with you on the new M3 comparison. I mean, if I'm going on the highway at about 70mph and I make a quick left to right (fast lane change), I can feel the car or the momentum wanting to keep going left very heavily. It didn;t used to do that. M3's are really stable and firm. This started at around 60k miles. A long time ago! I always thought it was because of the cheaper tires that I downgraded to, with the weaker sidewalls. But it could very well be the suspension. But again, the shocks seem to be okay still at 118k. Could it also be the RTABs? Bushings? I know my RSM's are bad. What I really need is to fix the tires going bald at 5000 miles deal. I'm not enjoying buying tires every 2 months.





                            Sorry to ask so many question on somebody else's post. I was thinking about starting my own, but it would be the same related suspension problems.

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                              #15
                              I get 12-15k out of a set of tires, and i'm not easy on tires.



                              If it feels like the rear end wants to steer then i'd suspect the rtabs. If the car feels like it wants to not turn in at highway speeds, and you have to make mid corner corrections to keep it on line,. Then thats bad balljoints. Steering wheel shake a hiighway speed can be a sign of bad control arm bushings.



                              I wouldn't take the mileage that I replaced stuff as end all. A street car will have its compontes last much longer, and you may not fully notice them going bad.

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