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Jacking up the E36

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    #16
    Step 1: Drive front of car onto 2x4 wood blocks to gain jack clearance.



    Step 2: Place jack pad (saddle) beneath front sub-frame cross-member.



    Step 3: Raise car and place jack stands underneath pucks.



    Step 4: Place saddle under rear sub-frame cross-member, just forward of the differential.



    Step 5: Raise car and place jack stands underneath pucks.



    I would add that I split the weight difference with a 2 x 6 between the rear-frame cross member and diff housing. And get my jack stands under the rear jack pads quickly. Either spot is bad for jacking, but jacking them together is the best approach.



    Jacking one side and then the other is not good on your aging suspension components or chassis.

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      #17
      Thanks for all the replies. Basically, this is kind of turning out as I feared. There's just no easy way to get all 4 corners up. The suggestions about using the diff or crossbeam are helpful, but when the front is in the air, the back bumper is just too low for me to get the jack under there and get at those points. I think i'll pick up another jack and jack pad.



      I would add that I split the weight difference with a 2 x 6 between the rear-frame cross member and diff housing. And get my jack stands under the rear jack pads quickly. Either spot is bad for jacking, but jacking them together is the best approach.



      Jacking one side and then the other is not good on your aging suspension components or chassis.

      Be careful using wood man. I had a 2x4 split lengthwise on me once while I was jacking up my girlfriend's RSX. The car came down in a hurry. I heard it start to split, and just popped my head under the bumper to see what was going on...WHAM! I'm lucky I moved out of the way fast. You just never know when wood is going to give out under pressure like that.

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        #18
        I have the low profile Rhino ramps and will drive up with the fronts on the ramps (lowered M3's will definately rub the front bumper) and jack the rear up from the differential, then secure with jack stands.



        Works on all of my cars :lo:

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          #19
          I have the 101 Performance Projects for you BMW E30/36 (written by the owner of Pelican Parts). It says the hockey puck jack pads are actually just dust guards and lift point locators; he says never put a stand on them, take them out and put the lift/stand in that area.:clueless: I don't know, I trust that book/guy and never leave the pads in

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            #20
            B4 I put in the lift, (yea, that's right.. I got a lift in my garage..) I bought an Al jack from HarborfreightTools. Jack one side, jack stand on frame rail, jack other side, stand on frame rail, jack diff support, jack stands on rear pucks. It took all of maybe 5 mins. If it needed to go higher, get the big floor jack and have at it.



            The lift is the best $ I ever spent.

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              #21
              B4 I put in the lift, (yea, that's right.. I got a lift in my garage..) I bought an Al jack from HarborfreightTools. Jack one side, jack stand on frame rail, jack other side, stand on frame rail, jack diff support, jack stands on rear pucks. It took all of maybe 5 mins. If it needed to go higher, get the big floor jack and have at it.



              The lift is the best $ I ever spent.



              We really need to be friends :thumbsup2:



              I thought I saw you driving a few weeks ago in the Owings Mills area.

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                #22
                Ok, so I can't find any of these "hockey pucks" under my car, what should I be looking for to place my jack stands under? I'm a hockey coach, and I've got probably two hundred extra pucks lying around, should I use some real ones between my jack stands and the subframe points once I can finally get em under there (sounds like this would be unnecessary and potentially dangerous, but would it be better for the car)? I'm trying to get all 4 wheels in the air too so I can install my SS brake lines and paint my calipers. And I know wood is a bad idea, but what about using an actual hockey puck between the jack and the cross member/diff to get the car up an extra inch (maybe even two fastened together for two inches)?

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                  #23
                  Ok, so I can't find any of these "hockey pucks" under my car, what should I be looking for to place my jack stands under? I'm a hockey coach, and I've got probably two hundred extra pucks lying around, should I use some real ones between my jack stands and the subframe points once I can finally get em under there (sounds like this would be unnecessary and potentially dangerous, but would it be better for the car)? I'm trying to get all 4 wheels in the air too so I can install my SS brake lines and paint my calipers. And I know wood is a bad idea, but what about using an actual hockey puck between the jack and the cross member/diff to get the car up an extra inch (maybe even two fastened together for two inches)?



                  You should see some holes on the bottom close to the side skirts, should be about directly under the plastic pop buttons used for your car jack. Those holes are where your "hockey puck" jack pads used to be until they fell out.



                  If you are putting the whole car in the air, use the above mentioned techniques. Jack the front from the cross-member and the rear from the cross member and/or diff. I use a piece of good piece of wood to bridge between the rear cross member and diff, so I'm splitting the weight.

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                    #24
                    If you are putting the whole car in the air, use the above mentioned techniques. Jack the front from the cross-member and the rear from the cross member and/or diff. I use a piece of good piece of wood to bridge between the rear cross member and diff, so I'm splitting the weight.



                    Uhhh, thanks, I do understand the process and what to do (I guess I need to elaborate on my problem). I'm trying to do this, but my 2 ton floor jack is too short, even when fully extended, for me to be able to get my jack stands under those holes(thanks BTW, for telling me where to find them.). Do you see what I'm saying? But putting a puck between the jack's contact surface and the cross member will get the car an extra inch into the air, giving me just enough space to get the jack stands under there at their lowest setting. I can't afford another jack right now, so that's outta the question. I'm just trying to improvise a tiny bit as safely as I can.

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                      #25
                      Get a larger jack, $130 at costco.

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                        #26
                        Uhhh, thanks, I do understand the process and what to do (I guess I need to elaborate on my problem). I'm trying to do this, but my 2 ton floor jack is too short, even when fully extended, for me to be able to get my jack stands under those holes(thanks BTW, for telling me where to find them.). Do you see what I'm saying? But putting a puck between the jack's contact surface and the cross member will get the car an extra inch into the air, giving me just enough space to get the jack stands under there at their lowest setting. I can't afford another jack right now, so that's outta the question. I'm just trying to improvise a tiny bit as safely as I can.



                        To be absolutely honest with you, the two ton jacks, like the one you have, simply won't work. They're to short, the saddle (plate that contacts the car) is way too small, and the casters don't turn well. This equates to the car slipping off of the jack and landing on the oil pan, ask me how I know.



                        In other words, either buy Rhino Ramps and limit your DIY projects to those not involving the removal of wheels, or buy a legit jack. This really just comes down to your safety and not injuring your car.



                        You can get ramps for about $40 or a decent Craftsman jack for about $100.

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                          #27
                          harbor freight ftw. Costco tools ftl.

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                            #28
                            Ok, so my hockey puck idea worked just fine. One under the front crossmember, and two under the diff, and it's up on my jack stands. Hockey pucks are just soft enough that the pressure will dig the saddle into them, but still hard enough to not crack under the pressure.



                            So nuts to all your $100+ jacks :raspberry:



                            Anyway, Now that it's in the air, I can't get the lugs off! I went to Harbor Freight and bought a compressor and impact set (had to cash in a bond that was intended for school...), and still nothing.



                            I was searching for answers and found this in another thread:





                            epj3 said

                            "these cars do not have "lug nuts," unless you bought one of those stud/nut kits."





                            I've never heard of a car that doesn't have lug nuts. What are these things then?! Can someone please tell me what the heck I'm doing here? Do I need to set my impact driver to forward or something crazy like that?

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                              #29
                              http://i30.tinypic.com/2emfnmx.jpg





                              'nuff said.

                              :rofl3:.......unfortunately i have to use a rack too



                              http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/porschetech/DSC_0001.jpg

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                                #30
                                I've never heard of a car that doesn't have lug nuts. What are these things then?!



                                Alright, nevermind on this, I found my answer, but still can't get them off.

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