Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Jacking up the E36

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Alright, nevermind on this, I found my answer, but still can't get them off.



    Since you have the car in the air already, you'll need someone to step on the brakes while you use a 2 or 3 foot breaker bar and a 17mm socket. This should do the trick on those bolts (not nuts). Otherwise put the car back on the ground and break them free, just so they start to move.

    Comment


      #32
      Since you have the car in the air already, you'll need someone to step on the brakes while you use a 2 or 3 foot breaker bar and a 17mm socket. This should do the trick on those bolts (not nuts). Otherwise put the car back on the ground and break them free, just so they start to move.



      You need a breaker bar or something called a "Johnson bar". It's effectively a socket (1/2" usually) on a U-joint on a 3-4ft shaft all as one piece (not a ratchet). Pop a 17mm socket onto it and it'll take anything off. Alternately, you can use the metal pipe on a regular socket, but it's still much easier to get the tool. Add to that there is less chance of scratching the paint due to the u-joint.



      This should almost always be done with the car still on the ground. You just loosen the bolts a quarter or half turn just so that you can get them off later with a regular socket wrench. Then lift the car. Then remove them. When you're done, you hand-tighten it lightly with a wrench (the wheels start to spin when you reach a certain tightness), drop the car down. Let it roll back a few inches if possible so that the suspension drops down so that undue pressure isn't uneven on the wheel. then tighten down.



      -M

      Comment


        #33
        I didn't read the previous posts, but I always jack up the rear as high as I can with the diff brace and put stands under the rear jack pads. I then jack up each side in the front with the jack pads and then place jack stands under the LCAB mounts. I'm not a huge fan of the stands on the rear jack pads, but if properly placed they can be pretty sturdy. As for the LCAB stands...that's about the best possible place to support the car that I have found since th stands just sort of lock into place. I used to be paranoid over stands and made log cabins out of 18" long sections of 8"x8".


        P.S. - Scissor jacks as well as the factory jack WILL fold under pressure...had it happen 3 or 4 times. I also had a Harbor Freight stand completely fail while holding up the corner of an old corolla. Luckily we had just taken a lunch beak.

        Comment


          #34
          This has always worked for me.


          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/slcook54/JP_0014_2.jpg

          Comment


            #35
            :rulaiz:

            http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm122/bleedsblue_2008/z18.jpg



            That jack pad thing is /thread

            Comment


              #36
              Ugh those side-jack pad things make me sick to my stomach when I look at them.

              Comment


                #37
                Ugh those side-jack pad things make me sick to my stomach when I look at them.



                +1 they suck.





                anyway to do this you need two jacks (one can be the small style ones) and obviously 2 sets of jack stands. i like the craftsman model # 50159. you start with the small jack and go from either side on the front and lift enough to get a real jack under the center of the front subframe. jack the car up enough to get the jack stands in fully compressed under the front two hockey pucks. then go to the rear and do the same with the small jack from one of the sides enough to get the real jack under the diff support (subframe) not the diff itself. now you can jack up till you can fit the jackstands in as high as you want. once finished you go back to the front and level the car out. the only reason i do the front twice is because these are the high lift stands and it is too much of an angle if you don't do it like this....

                Comment


                  #38
                  I'm sure no one is going to listen/cares, but again you are not supposed to put any sort of pressure on those 'hockey pucks'. They are lift point locators for shops... that is all. Any shop with E36 experience takes them out prior to lifting. I would do the same:clueless:



                  Those pads that fit in the factory jack holes are recommended, unless you want to buy two jacks (the ideal situation)

                  Comment


                    #39
                    I'm sure no one is going to listen/cares, but again you are not supposed to put any sort of pressure on those 'hockey pucks'. They are lift point locators for shops... that is all. Any shop with E36 experience takes them out prior to lifting. I would do the same:clueless:


                    Those pads that fit in the factory jack holes are recommended, unless you want to buy two jacks (the ideal situation)


                    They may not be ment for it, but until someone builds a reliable articulating head for a jackstand that won't slip or dig into the chassis -- I'll continue to use the hockey puck :raspberry: I have heard of no problems other than lost hockey pucks -- which isn't too bad since the cars have been out for 16 years now. :thumbsup2:


                    These are expensive, but are by far the best jackstands I have used.

                    http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/garage+sale/jack+stands,+3-ton.do

                    Comment


                      #40
                      They may not be ment for it, but until someone builds a reliable articulating head for a jackstand that won't slip or dig into the chassis -- I'll continue to use the hockey puck :raspberry: I have heard of no problems other than lost hockey pucks -- which isn't too bad since the cars have been out for 16 years now. :thumbsup2:



                      These are expensive, but are by far the best jackstands I have used.

                      http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/garage+sale/jack+stands,+3-ton.do



                      :raspberry:to you. Haha yeah I know, I'm not on a vendetta to get everyone to start using proper lifting methods... For some reason I want people to know the pucks aren't designed for it, at least. I don't know, I was also told the puck is unstable. They sell flat top stands that don't dig into the undercoating... I'm going to shut up now:chair:

                      Comment


                        #41
                        pics?

                        Comment


                          #42
                          :rofl3:.......unfortunately i have to use a rack too



                          http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/porschetech/DSC_0001.jpg



                          :drool::drool::drool::drool::drool::drool:





                          That is so beautiful:cry: So clean.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            :rofl3:.......unfortunately i have to use a rack too



                            http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/porschetech/DSC_0001.jpg



                            I gotta get me one of those!:thumbsup2:

                            Comment


                              #44
                              I use ramps for the front, then jack up the rear off the brace, then jack the front up and put on stands so there are 4 stands underneath the pads.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                that jack pad is extreme fail. I would never use that.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X