I just used my impact socket set and varied the size of the impact based on the radius I needed. Turned out great.
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Rear Suspension Overhaul (Part Duece)
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Wow dude, crazy. For once, OEM fitment FTL. :shifty:
Coming along slowly dude. I hope i'm around for when the beast is woken from its winter-long slumber again. I'm sure it won't be like the open header wake up last season, but it'll be nice to see it come alive again.
Thanks Nick! I'll definitely keep you posted on when it's time for assembly (most likely this weekend) and then whenever I start the front end. I'm really getting impatient now and want to drive it now that it's starting to get nice out...
My 99 has the S style rear lines as well.
Man, you've got a friend/helper for everything, haha. Wish I had that kind of support around here. :thumbsup2:
I'm very fortunate to have some close friends locally, however even when I was at Purdue I had the same thing with PAPA... do you still live in WL? There are some pretty handy guys out there that can do just about anything...
how much was the brake pipe from the dealer?......interesting it doesn't come already bent.........at least you didn't have to use a flaring tool....pipe bending isnt too fun either as your hands are showing
I think they were like $7 ea IIRC. Wish I had known before so that I would have been extra careful not to strip it.. hopefully this helps someone else in the future.
preset lengths from the dealer are CHEAP. I had to run all new lines for the last 3 channel ABS setup.
Everything was done with my bear hands. Zero issues, and no crazy redness :shifty: :laughhard:
Looks good man, good luck with everything, and glad its coming along
Thanks Cal... I certainly wouldn't want to have to redo all the hard lines under the car like you did...
good stuff guys!
Thanks Joe!!
I just used my impact socket set and varied the size of the impact based on the radius I needed. Turned out great.
Hmm... good advice! Didn't even think of that :thumbsup2:
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So now the second shop said they can't powdercoat the parts because they're not stripped down far enough (they were only media blasted) and they can't get a good enough electromagnetic charge for the colored powder that they're using. Leaving work early to pick up the parts and bring them to the THIRD shop now, who supposedly has everything needed to sand blast and powdercoat them and has a wider variety of colors. Hopefully they have a decent turn around as I'm sick of having this car on jackstands and am just getting really frustrated since I've been without the parts since early January... I'll keep everyone updated...
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I'm very fortunate to have some close friends locally, however even when I was at Purdue I had the same thing with PAPA... do you still live in WL?
I moved to Indy when I got a job here about 3 years ago, living in Carmel now.
The local BMW mechanic quoted me $430 to do both RWBs if I bring him the trailing arms w/o axles. For that price I'd rather just borrow his B80-BMW tool and try it myself first, which wouldn't cost me anything if I bought the RWBs from him ($70ea.) It seems to be a job that can be a slight PITA to a HUGE PITA, depending on how much the axles and bearings don't want to leave.
I too have some rather bad news. I grabbed my rear axles in the center and at each end one at a time and twisted back and fourth and 3 out of 4 joints have a tiny bit of play in them. So.... looks like I'll be buying a pair of rebuilt axles as well. The only good thing about that is I believe that is the source of my very sublte high load, high rpm vibration that still exists after replacing the driveshaft. That, and I noticed it while they were off the car, not after I put everything back together.
Is there any cheaper place than Tischer ($400) to get remaned half-shafts or am I out another $800? :facepalm:
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take apart current set using my DIY I made, and start there
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1398300
Agreed with this. You need to confirm that they are bad before you just throw out more cash. Then again, living in Carmel you probably has the $$$ to blow :lolhit:
I used to live around 91st and Township line Rd. Actually my family still does so that is where I stay when I go back.
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Bobby, I had to replace one of those same rear S-lines, too. I just used a $3 tool from an auto parts store; it even turned out to have the same radius as the stock line's bends.
I just used my impact socket set and varied the size of the impact based on the radius I needed. Turned out great.
Such a good little engineer... :fruitcake:
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Agreed with this. You need to confirm that they are bad before you just throw out more cash. Then again, living in Carmel you probably has the $$$ to blow :lolhit:
I used to live around 91st and Township line Rd. Actually my family still does so that is where I stay when I go back.
lol, I wish. If I was really Carmel rich, I'd be driving a Porsche GT-3, not a high mileage 90s M3. :shifty:
There's about .5mm-1mm of radial play in 3 of the 4 CV joints, while one has zero play. So, that leads me to believe they're on the way out. Anyways, I'm going to start my own rebuild thread, rather than hijack Bobby's thread with my stuff. I definitely appreciate the input and help from everyone though.
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Bobby, I had to replace one of those same rear S-lines, too. I just used a $3 tool from an auto parts store; it even turned out to have the same radius as the stock line's bends.
Thanks Zach!! I still don't understand why they didn't just use a single soft line back there, but oh well... hopefully the car is done before our ATL meet :laughhard:
:agree: It's going to be so worth it when you get it back together. The calipers look great Bobby. :thumbsup2:
Thanks Casey! I hope so... stop by and check it out sometime if you get a chance.. i'll be assembling it next weekend finally if all goes as planned.
surprised you didnt have that tool already mr harbour freight over hurrr
Wait, what? I barely have any tools from HF :shifty:
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