Rear Suspension Overhaul (Part Duece)

[m3f_Jvanmater_0ce9a41d55]

quit copying Joe :shifty:

:laughhard::rofl3:



How am I copying Joe?? He didn't get new hardware for his overhaul... :shifty:

:



of course I didn't, IMO it's a waste for all new hardware in the rear. I only did new RTAB bolts and the MCMaster's.



gotta be a really good feeling having EVERYTHING absolutely new back there though eace: :thumbsup2:

[m3f_PurduinaM3_5769f9ad51]

of course I didn't, IMO it's a waste for all new hardware in the rear. I only did new RTAB bolts and the MCMaster's.



gotta be a really good feeling having EVERYTHING absolutely new back there though eace: :thumbsup2:



Eh, they're really not too expensive, I wouldn't call it a waste. They all were rusty and had dirty threads etc, and everything else there will be brand new so I figured why not just spend a little bit more to do it right. Should be a lot of fun putting it all back together as if it was coming off the assembly line though

[m3f_Potenza_24b89663df]

ugggghhh.



I didn't expect the damn parking brake cable to be the hardest part of this job. Mine are rusted in very tight and are holding on for dear life. I've been trying to get these stupid things out of the RTA for 2 days now. :soapbox::banghead:

[m3f_PurduinaM3_5769f9ad51]

I had a lot of trouble with mine when I did this job 2 years ago... just pull them from the inside, it takes 5 minutes. I just destroyed mine from the RTA this time around since I have brand new ones... but yes, they can be quite the b*tch :shifty:

[m3f_OahuMPower_17503f01cd]

when u remove, or buy new ones...


USE ANTI-SEIZE when you install the new ones, or the old ones again. That way, next time, you can get them out :rulaiz:

[m3f_nucci]

Regarding removing Ebrake cables:



If you remove them at the front, inside the trans tunnel, you may find that they are still slighly corrosion-locked in place. They have flats in one particular location. This allows using a crowsfoot wrench attached to an extension or two to break it free rotationally. After that it should pull out easily.



I think the crowsfoot was 13mm but I'm not positive.



Matt

[m3f_OahuMPower_17503f01cd]

:hmm:


will have to investigate this further...


nice tip :rulaiz:


have found some are corrison locked, but my bear power has always won :lolhit:

[m3f_Potenza_24b89663df]

Right after my last post I ended up saying to hell with removing them from the RTAs and just pulled the whole cable out of the body. I put some vise grips on them with a few twist and pulls and they came out in about 5 sec. a side.



Now the RLCA ball joint bolts are being stuborn, but I'm sure I can get them out with some tenacity. Besides those two things, over all the job has been a breeze.



I'm glad I did it though; found out one of my rear springs was broken at the top ring. I can't wait to see what the car is going to feel like with an entire new rear suspension.



just pull them from the inside, it takes 5 minutes. I just destroyed mine from the RTA this time around since I have brand new ones... but yes, they can be quite the b*tch :shifty:



Yea I think it would be easy to remove them if the axles weren't in the way but that wasn't in my initial (if it isn't broke don't fix it) list. Now that I've got it all apart though, I'm thinking that not doing the RWBs when i'm in this deep would be a mistake. I definitely don't want there to be a "next time" when it comes to the rear suspension.

[m3f_PurduinaM3_5769f9ad51]

Regarding removing Ebrake cables:



If you remove them at the front, inside the trans tunnel, you may find that they are still slighly corrosion-locked in place. They have flats in one particular location. This allows using a crowsfoot wrench attached to an extension or two to break it free rotationally. After that it should pull out easily.



I think the crowsfoot was 13mm but I'm not positive.



Matt



True story!





Yea I think it would be easy to remove them if the axles weren't in the way but that wasn't in my initial (if it isn't broke don't fix it) list. Now that I've got it all apart though, I'm thinking that not doing the RWBs when i'm in this deep would be a mistake. I definitely don't want there to be a "next time" when it comes to the rear suspension.



Definitely do EVERYTHING while you're back there... I didn't and now I'm redoing it all just because I never want to touch it again. How many miles on your car? They might not be showing obvious signs but they should be pretty worn by now...

[m3f_fiveightan_7e37700daf]

True story!


Definitely do EVERYTHING while you're back there... I didn't and now I'm redoing it all just because I never want to touch it again. How many miles on your car? They might not be showing obvious signs but they should be pretty worn by now...

:rofl2:


I call BS.


That car comes apart every spring for something. Forget about the groundhog...that's how I know the warm weather is coming...your car is up on jack stands getting torn apart.

[m3f_PurduinaM3_5769f9ad51]

:rofl2:


I call BS.


That car comes apart every spring for something. Forget about the groundhog...that's how I know the warm weather is coming...your car is up on jack stands getting torn apart.


:laughhard: :lolhit:


True story; but I'm running out of things to tinker with... :rofl2:

[m3f_OahuMPower_17503f01cd]

no your not....


engine stuff :shifty:

[m3f_Potenza_24b89663df]

How many miles on your car? They might not be showing obvious signs but they should be pretty worn by now...



160,000mi. I'm sure just about everything is pretty worn at this point unless it's been replaced.

[m3f_PurduinaM3_5769f9ad51]

no your not....



engine stuff :shifty:



ES TS :shifty:



160,000mi. I'm sure just about everything is pretty worn at this point unless it's been replaced.



At 160k, rear wheel bearings while apart wouldn't even be a question for me....

[m3f_OahuMPower_17503f01cd]

At 160k, rear wheel bearings while apart wouldn't even be a question for me....


agree'd :agree: