Progress looking good, lets see them in the car. You somewhat motivated me to finally finish my my stereo upgrade. I have a BSW upgrade on a stock system, my head unit crackles badly and drops channels when I adjust volume. I ordered an older Eclipse CD7000 headunit that can do time-alignment and go fully active and bought the ipod adapter to go with it.
Just ordered a set of new massive audio CK6 6.5 components and NX5 five channel amp to power the front stage and a sub. I guess it will be some work to get the 6.5s up front but other than that hoping everything is straightforward.
That's awesome, make sure you post some pictures! Are you going to do angled pods or just try to get them in flat?
i like it, unfortunately i wouldn't be able to do the kick panel mods, as i don't have the skill and i have really big feet........is it possible to have a nice stereo using the stock speaker holes?
I'm just going to go with the stock holes, (but enlarge to fit the 6.5 mid). My new tweeters are 28mm and too large to fit in the stock tweeter location, I mounted them in the mid-range driver location on the door instead. Less than ideal, but I want to keep the stock locations and it should be suitable for what I want.
I just need to get some RCA's and power cables now. For a sub I'm using and ARC 10, optimum enclosure of 0.65 cuft so that will keep it small and removable. No rear fill.
i like it, unfortunately i wouldn't be able to do the kick panel mods, as i don't have the skill and i have really big feet........is it possible to have a nice stereo using the stock speaker holes?
absolutely. I would open the oem holes a bit for a 6.5", and dampen the baffle. I have morel dotech ovations in the oem locations myself. I feel that i would damage kickpanels, and frankly, my legs will ruin any major acoustic differences on the drivers side. I prefer a high soundstage so i would suggest trying to get your tweeters on the A pillars if you dont want to use the oem locations.
How much cutting is involved to fit some 6.5's in a coupe's kick panel? I pulled the trim off today and the old speaker. Seems like quite a large change, I'll trace over it tomorrow with a template I made to give me a better idea, but at first glance it seems like I'll protrude up a bit past the lower glovebox trim.
How much cutting is involved to fit some 6.5's in a coupe's kick panel? I pulled the trim off today and the old speaker. Seems like quite a large change, I'll trace over it tomorrow with a template I made to give me a better idea, but at first glance it seems like I'll protrude up a bit past the lower glovebox trim.
If you space it out like this guy did with a baffle, you could probably get away without cutting anything at all.
I sound deadened the rear deck --- the rattling was out of control. The hardest part was removing the C-pilar covers and the trim piece in front of the rear deck cover. I broke a few clips and am tempted to order new C-pilar covers to make sure it is done right. Currently they are being held on by only 2 of the 4 clips each.
I put peel-n-seal on both the metal rear deck and the top panel. I re-routed the factory wiring for the rear defroster underneath the foam piece (it was on top before). I think that my rattle was one of the connectors against the cover. Regardless, there is no more rattle! Yay! :halm:
Anyway --- sound quality after some tweaking definitely improved to an A-. I have some mediocre quality MP3s that really sound like crap in this car --- whereas a lesser system doesn't highlight how bad they really are, that is my only complaint. I question whether a steeper slope on the tweeter crossover would help ... maybe I'll throw the passives in just to see if it helps.
Bottom line - I love it! <$700 in equipment, but it sounds like thousands.
wow nice work specially the fronts does the driver side speaker get in the way while driving???
Yeah, I don't have a problem at all. In fact, I just did an HPDE at Laguna Seca and I left the pods in just to make sure. I never even noticed they were there, neither did the instructor when he drove my car.
Regarding the loss of the dead pedal --- it bothers me more during daily driving than on the track. On the track my left foot is always covering the clutch. It is on my commute that I find myself re-learning what to do with my left foot.
I'm still glad I did it ... because the sound is amazing!
I always liked the Soundstream stuff that I worked with over 15 years ago, but it has been so long and so many systems between now and then I honestly cannot compare. When I heard and installed them years ago it was usually their Reference components which, when you think about how these electronics manufacturers work, is probably the same stuff they're putting in their Rubicon equipment today.
The Rubicon equipment is an absolute amazing value. I could probably criticize it when compared side-by-side with some super high-end stuff, but I can't tell when they are on their own. The separates have great mid-bass and they blend with the sub very well. The highs are smooth and lend themselves to all music types without being harsh. The amp is pretty low on power, but I knew that going into it --- the gains are a little higher than I would like to satisfy my volume requirements. The thing is, I'm not going to install a bunch of heavy amps when this car gets flogged on the track regularly.
Another interesting point: I spent over 3 times this amount on a competition system (mainly Orion, PPI & AudioControl equipment) over 15 years ago. It was an employee purchase - so the equipment was about 1/3 that of MSRP, and to be honest --- I don't think it sounded this good. When you take into the account the time-value of money, you can do so much more today then you could years ago. I attribute this to the internet --- not only can you find how-to's everywhere, but you can also get equipment for about the same price as the pros.
I can honestly tell you, unless I am building a show car, I will never spend more than $1000 on a car stereo system ever again. It just isn't necessary for everyday listening.
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