What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch?

[bimmerfan08]

The GPS unscrews, it is a pipe thread so it's tapered and will get tighter as it goes in. Just make it snug and use thread sealant like you pictured, its just to keep oil from seeping through the threads.

Good stuff. Thanks for the quick replies!

Looking forward to having the car back together and good for another 175k+ miles.

[George Hill]

The GPS unscrews, it is a pipe thread so it's tapered and will get tighter as it goes in. Just make it snug and use thread sealant like you pictured, its just to keep oil from seeping through the threads.

[bimmerfan08]

IMO if they are out, they don't go back in.

Thanks for confirming - I planned to replace them since they're out, and if original, they have 175K miles on them.

Green is 9 (the pin pushes against the GPS sensor switch)
Red is 15

1. What are the torque values for the fasteners? I.e, the bolts for the #20 cap, the #16 bolt, and the #11 sensor hex. As far as I know there aren't any torque specs.
   • The M6 bolts for number #20, 10nm should be fine.
   • Nut for #6, snug with thread sealant
   • GPS #11, snug with thread sealant
2. Are any special tools needed to set the depths of the sleeves for #1 and #5? ZF transmissions require special tools, from videos I've watched. If its an original MT bell housing it should have a step that you'll drive the bushing against. Its thin so do not break it off. IMO, if the detent slides in the bore smoothly by hand, leave it.
3. Any watchouts or things not to do while disassembling and removing the springs? Not that I can think of.

Thanks for chiming in with insights and advice. Does the sensor switch (in green) pull out or twist out?

[6speedS54]

Yes, on jack stands. I can take a measurement next time I work on the car.

I didn't have the car high enough for the transmission to roll out on the transmission jack, though. The top of the bellhousing was 4ish inches inside the transmission tunnel, with the transmission jack at its lowest setting. I transferred the transmission to a low-profile creeper, as it was a quick improvisation to get the transmission out from under the car. I've done the job by myself so far, and I will say, handling the transmission has been the most challenging aspect. The weight of the unit is ~103 lb from what I found online. A friend will be helping me out when I reinstall it back into the car.

It would be great if you could measure the height, I have 2 3 ton HB jacks and 2 3 ton higher quality jacks. They don't go higher than 16-17 inches I think. My friend is lending me the scissor transmission jack. Based on what I saw I may have to transfer it to a cardboard or something and pull it out, or leave it under and work on it that way. Also wondering if transmission could be tilted to squeak the bellhousing part out.

I saw this video, but it's not M3, this guy is wild. https://youtu.be/1ON6azvTyqY?si=_0Ud4_1JL0GXn9NE

[George Hill]

George Hill, Casa de Mesa, or anyone else who has replaced detent sleeves and springs.

I removed the cover for the rear springs and found all springs intact. The sleeves appear to be in great condition. The springs (anecdotally) still feel pretty firm (have good resistance) when compressed. Should these still be replaced for good measure?

IMO if they are out, they don't go back in.

I attached a picture of my transmission for reference. I understand two of the detent pins are behind the plastic covers above the slave cylinder location. Referencing the RealOEM diagram below, where are the two springs (9 & 15) that are towards the rear on this side of the transmission? Is it the large hex at the very back of the transmission?

Edit: Figured out the location thanks to this post: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...261#post132261

Green is 9 (the pin pushes against the GPS sensor switch)
Red is 15

A few additional questions:

1. What are the torque values for the fasteners? I.e, the bolts for the #20 cap, the #16 bolt, and the #11 sensor hex. As far as I know there aren't any torque specs.
   • The M6 bolts for number #20, 10nm should be fine.
   • Nut for #6, snug with thread sealant
   • GPS #11, snug with thread sealant
2. Are any special tools needed to set the depths of the sleeves for #1 and #5? ZF transmissions require special tools, from videos I've watched. If its an original MT bell housing it should have a step that you'll drive the bushing against. Its thin so do not break it off. IMO, if the detent slides in the bore smoothly by hand, leave it.
3. Any watchouts or things not to do while disassembling and removing the springs? Not that I can think of.

[bimmerfan08]

Are you doing this on jack stands? If so could you post a picture how high the car is, I am going to do this soon and seeing conflicting info on how high the car should be. Some instances its over 20" other videos I am seeing regular jack stands and people are still able to drop it.

Yes, on jack stands. I can take a measurement next time I work on the car.

I didn't have the car high enough for the transmission to roll out on the transmission jack, though. The top of the bellhousing was 4ish inches inside the transmission tunnel, with the transmission jack at its lowest setting. I transferred the transmission to a low-profile creeper, as it was a quick improvisation to get the transmission out from under the car. I've done the job by myself so far, and I will say, handling the transmission has been the most challenging aspect. The weight of the unit is ~103 lb from what I found online. A friend will be helping me out when I reinstall it back into the car.

[6speedS54]

Watched a few already and found a few on the Getrag 420, thanks to it being used across other chassis models (E39, etc.). When I finish the job, I'll post a thread with my learnings and takeaways, as well as the references I used.

Are you doing this on jack stands? If so could you post a picture how high the car is, I am going to do this soon and seeing conflicting info on how high the car should be. Some instances its over 20" other videos I am seeing regular jack stands and people are still able to drop it.

[bimmerfan08]

There are several good videos on YouTube on the pin replacement. When in YT search "replacing detent pins zf5"

Watched a few already and found a few on the Getrag 420, thanks to it being used across other chassis models (E39, etc.). When I finish the job, I'll post a thread with my learnings and takeaways, as well as the references I used.

[S54330Ci]

There are several good videos on YouTube on the pin replacement. When in YT search "replacing detent pins zf5"

[bimmerfan08]

George Hill, Casa de Mesa, or anyone else who has replaced detent sleeves and springs.

I removed the cover for the rear springs and found all springs intact. The sleeves appear to be in great condition. The springs (anecdotally) still feel pretty firm (have good resistance) when compressed. Should these still be replaced for good measure?

I attached a picture of my transmission for reference. I understand two of the detent pins are behind the plastic covers above the slave cylinder location. Referencing the RealOEM diagram below, where are the two springs (9 & 15) that are towards the rear on this side of the transmission? Is it the large hex at the very back of the transmission?

Edit: Figured out the location thanks to this post: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...261#post132261

A few additional questions:

1. What are the torque values for the fasteners? I.e, the bolts for the #20 cap, the #16 bolt, and the #11 sensor hex.
2. Are any special tools needed to set the depths of the sleeves for #1 and #5? ZF transmissions require special tools, from videos I've watched.
3. Any watchouts or things not to do while disassembling and removing the springs?

[bimmerfan08]

bimmerfan08 I'm a big fan of letting sleeping dogs lie on a part that is relatively easy to access.

My thought as well. Thanks!

[332]

No 6th sucks for street cars.

I don't believe "stronger"-- 420g is a tank, and the 5 speed constantly has issues with 5th gear lean.

And, not "cheaper" when you already own the 420g

Different strokes for different folks, I enjoy the weight savings. With that being said, my car isn't a "street" car. I enjoy a s54 powered 5 speed with a 3.38 or 3.23

[Obioban]

I can't believe no one has said the transmission? Get a ZF 5 speed, lighter, cheaper, stronger.. that is the holy trinity.

No 6th sucks for street cars.

I don't believe "stronger"-- 420g is a tank, and the 5 speed constantly has issues with 5th gear lean.

And, not "cheaper" when you already own the 420g

[332]

I can't believe no one has said the transmission? Get a ZF 5 speed, lighter, cheaper, stronger.. that is the holy trinity.

[George Hill]

bimmerfan08 I'm a big fan of letting sleeping dogs lie on a part that is relatively easy to access.