What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch?

[sapote]

I'm about to replace mine with SS, although the plastic one does look fine, but I wonder how is it noisier if there is a fork clip that keep together so it doesn't rattle?

Maybe the clip is not strong enough to hold the fork to the pin tight on the road. It main function is to avoid the fork end fell off the pin, but not hold it tight enough.

[bigjae46]

I'd just stick with the plastic pin and replace. The throw-out bearing will disintegrate first.

[GolanM3]

I have the SS pin on one of my M3 and I regret, it’s noisy. I will eventually drop tranny again to put OEM plastic back.

I'm about to replace mine with SS, although the plastic one does look fine, but I wonder how is it noisier if there is a fork clip that keep together so it doesn't rattle?
Also, do you have the stock flywheel? otherwise the lightweight flywheel makes a lot more noise than this pin.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/21517570284.htm?pn=21-51-7-570-284-M9&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy9msBhD0ARIsANbk0A_ZhhghvKPbj6SLqmrcW6X_1qYYlqk-Px9q2H2rUsXdkebj4WDlxK8aAtviEALw_wcB

[Obioban]

Are y'all changing 21511223302 Clutch Release fork lever with every clutch change? My Car has close to 55k miles and i want to do the clutch refresh one of these days. Car is SMG so i have tracked and done launches on this clutch and i feel it sliping sometimes in between shifts.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=21_0093

At 55k, I'd reuse the fork.

[0-60motorsports]

Are y'all changing 21511223302 Clutch Release fork lever with every clutch change? My Car has close to 55k miles and i want to do the clutch refresh one of these days. Car is SMG so i have tracked and done launches on this clutch and i feel it sliping sometimes in between shifts.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=21_0093

[sapote]

I have the SS pin on one of my M3 and I regret, it’s noisy. I will eventually drop tranny again to put OEM plastic back.

It's also less friction between the plastic pin and the fork, so less wear on the fork pivot dimple.

[PSUEng]

Great thread, thank you to all for the knowledge sharing. So, for a vehicle with exhaust and tune (my car), on the street, is the SACHS "Performance" kit 21212282667 recommended or, something else? I'mis finding the 667 part number kit show up various places, at vastly different prices and I'm not sure what "Performance" denotes compared to "stock" equivalent.

[0-60motorsports]

To give you an idea, if I want to get rid of the rattling noise it makes, I need to put a litttle bit of pressure on the clutch pedal… so annoying on a car with stock muffler. So even a bit of lube haven't changed anything. And when replacing the pivot pin, make sure to measure depth precisely otherwise you will bust the clutch slave… ask me how I know…


Also regarding the TOB, I think I prefer the one that comes with the LuK clutch kit. The TOB is pressed by the clutch fork and doesn't get in contact straight as pressure is apply by clutch slave. Contact point of clutch fork is more with an angle. Pretty sure the LUK TOB apply load more evenly on the pressure plate during all of the slave travel.

Yup sounds good, thanks. I'll get the plastic pin.

[Gt4]

Ah ok thanks for the feedback. Did you lube it when installing it? I'll have a plastic one in the basket for the next order of parts

To give you an idea, if I want to get rid of the rattling noise it makes, I need to put a litttle bit of pressure on the clutch pedal… so annoying on a car with stock muffler. So even a bit of lube haven’t changed anything. And when replacing the pivot pin, make sure to measure depth precisely otherwise you will bust the clutch slave… ask me how I know…


Also regarding the TOB, I think I prefer the one that comes with the LuK clutch kit. The TOB is pressed by the clutch fork and doesn’t get in contact straight as pressure is apply by clutch slave. Contact point of clutch fork is more with an angle. Pretty sure the LUK TOB apply load more evenly on the pressure plate during all of the slave travel.

[0-60motorsports]

I have the SS pin on one of my M3 and I regret, it's noisy. I will eventually drop tranny again to put OEM plastic back.

Ah ok thanks for the feedback. Did you lube it when installing it? I'll have a plastic one in the basket for the next order of parts

[Gt4]

Why not go with the SS pin? Noisy? Cost? I have an SS pin for my clutch job in the future but was thinking of getting the plastic one since I’m SMG as well.

I have the SS pin on one of my M3 and I regret, it’s noisy. I will eventually drop tranny again to put OEM plastic back.

[0-60motorsports]

Yeah I agree. I would choose the stock plastic pin over the metal ones if I were doing this again.

Why not go with the SS pin? Noisy? Cost? I have an SS pin for my clutch job in the future but was thinking of getting the plastic one since I’m SMG as well.

[heinzboehmer]

Wow, the original pin looks not bad at all, so I’m in the camp that don’t need the brass or ss pin replacement.

Yeah I agree. I would choose the stock plastic pin over the metal ones if I were doing this again.

[sapote]

Wow, the original pin looks not bad at all, so I’m in the camp that don’t need the brass or ss pin replacement.

[heinzboehmer]

Did you finish this project and what's the condition of the stock plastic pivot pin?
How hard to get the unbolted starter off the dowel pin? When I removed my transmission, it was a tough job to remove the exhaust pipes 4 nuts off the cat studs, and of course the bell housing top two E14 bolts. But nothing compared to removing the starter off the little dowel pin -- I couldn't believe this. People say to hammer the pin forward off the bellhousing using a 4mm Allen socket on the long 24" extension, and I tried this too but it didn't move and I fear this could break the bellhousing ear then a bigger headache. Non-M starter has a 5mm gap between the starter solenoid base and the bellhousing to wedge in a prybar or large screwdriver to work it loose, but M3 starter has no such gap.
There is no reason that BMW couldn't have the starter dowel hole 0.003" larger than the pin. My 1974 E9 doesn't have the dowel pin.

Yeah I swapped the clutch a few years ago. Haven't had the transmission off since, so no idea how the replacement parts are wearing. This is what the original pivot pin looked like (ignore the marks on the side, those are from the vise grips I used to get it out):



I swapped the starter on my car about a year before doing the clutch and didn't have an issue getting it off either time. It pulled right out once the bolts were removed.