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Heater Control valve gets hot on cold engine

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    Heater Control valve gets hot on cold engine

    So I noticed that my water heater valve in the engine bay gets hot to the touch. So I unplugged the plug, checked it in the morning and it was ice cold. I then plugged in the plug and within 10 minutes it's already getting warm again and I haven't even started the engine.

    I'm curious if this is an indicator that these solenoid and the heater valve is bad?

    I know that my HVAC panel is good I've tested the 12-v olt power wire and it gets power engine off and I tested the resistance of the other wire on the plug and it shows zero resistance with the car off on the car on it shows resistance which is what it's supposed to do.

    So I was just curious if anybody had any thoughts on why the heater valve solenoid gets hot when it's plugged in and the car is off.

    #2
    Something in your HVAC system might be faulty as it's commanding to energize the solenoid. The valve is powered close so you won't get heat. Try turning the heat in your HVAC and see if you get heat. If not, something is faulty i.e. HVAC control panel or the heater core thermostat behind the HVAC. Leaving it connected without fixing the issue might lead to your battery discharging. Or...
    Now, that reminds me, my friend lost his 2003 M3 last year due to a fire that started in the engine compartment... HMMM. That was after I wrecked mine...dammit!

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      #3
      There was another thread asking about this the title “What is this and should it be hot?” Sorry don’t know how to link it
      It’s on page 7 of “new topics”
      Last edited by Rkymtnrider; 05-07-2021, 03:42 PM.

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        #4
        Thanks guys I think I solved the problem.

        I used a multimeter and measured the voltage between the two wires on the water valve plug and it was always reading 12 volts even overnight.

        I removed the HVAC panel and replaced it with an M3 one I had laying around turn the car on measured the voltage between two wires and it showed 12 volts like it's supposed to then I turned the car off waited about 15 minutes and the voltage dropped to zero volts.

        When I put the other HVAC panel back in my original one I turn the car on measure 12 volts turn the car off Wait a 15 minutes and sometimes it would still show 12 volts other times it would show 1.5 to 2 volts never went to 0.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Rkymtnrider View Post
          There was another thread asking about this the title “What is this and should it be hot?” Sorry don’t know how to link it
          F3C5267E-E0A3-4268-8E78-939D8E099744.jpeg the smaller cylinder is hot enough to burn you. My car has not been driven in over a week. Should this be scalding hot just sitting?

          6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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            #6
            Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post
            F3C5267E-E0A3-4268-8E78-939D8E099744.jpeg the smaller cylinder is hot enough to burn you. My car has not been driven in over a week. Should this be scalding hot just sitting?
            yes sir i found the thread thats how i managed to figure out my hvac panel was energizing my water valve constantly.

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              #7
              Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
              yes sir i found the thread thats how i managed to figure out my hvac panel was energizing my water valve constantly.
              Oh good, glad info I posted in previous thread (appears) to have helped you.
              Between these two cases, one is an example of the valve and other the control panel.
              6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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